R 22

Rhodes 22



What size Danforth anchor will fit in the hanger? I have an 8-pound. Will a larger one fit?

Rod Ellner

Most people are using the 13-pound "Danforth" style anchor (and what GB uses). That is a steel anchor. A lighter Fortress aluminum can be used but they are pricey. 13 pounds seems the right size for the boat (BUT NOT STORM SIZE). With 20 feet of 1/4 inch chain will bring the system weight into the 20-pound area. These anchors work best in mud bottoms; for almost anything else you want a second type of anchor on the boat.

Bring a tape measure to the boat store to measure the shaft and the blades. The bow pulpit has changed often and every "Danforth" style is different.


My 1976 Rhodes 22 didn't come with the built-in anchor locker. After seeing the GBI factory set-up at boat shows, I never retrofitted it. In my opinion, it's the most un-seaworthy feature on the whole boat. We frequently sail in pretty rough conditions on the Great Lakes. Who wants an anchor rode hawse pipe up on the bow leading down to a drawer that doesn't have a drain and overflows on top of the V-berth? Also, the geometry looked wrong for smooth anchor rode storage. Anchor rode lockers are usually deep, not shallow like the GBI drawer.

I'm hoping that someday, GBI will upgrade the design to a proper foredeck anchor locker that drains overboard & has a solid opening hatch up on the foredeck which can be securely locked shut. Unfortunately, this is not the sort of project the average Rhodes 22 owner can tackle. There's a lot of critical structure & other gear built into the bow. You can't simply cut it away & glass in an anchor locker.

Anyway, for the moment, we're stuck with what we have. It turns out that a low profile 5 gal bucket will fit nicely under the cockpit seats. I carry 150 feet of 3/8" 3-strand + 30 feet of anchor chain + shackle in the bucket. Around the bottom of the bucket, equally spaced at 120 deg intervals, drill three " drain holes thru the side. About 4" above one of the holes, drill another " hole. This is the "rope keeper" hole. Thread about 6" of the end of the anchor rode thru the drain hole & back up into the rope keeper hole. When you go to use the bucket of rope, you will be able to pull anchor rode out of the drain hole and cleat it off before you even begin deploying anchor rode. This precludes losing the anchor rode and/or rope bucket overboard. My primary anchor is a Fortress FX-7, stored in a holder up on the bow pulpit. I carry my other anchors & rode in the lazarette compartment.

My bow is a pretty crowded place with the roller furler & its associated control line, mooring cleats, chocks, downhaul for the cruising spinnaker, downhaul for the spinnaker snuffer sock, and storage cleat for the outboard end of the spinnaker pole. I always figured an anchor roller on top of all the other gear would be a bit much. You'd also have to install it off center, which would look pretty ugly.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

New Song is still a yard ornament -- a very nice one, but still a yard ornament. My dealer has my Yamaha high thrust tiller model in. Hope to pick it up next week. My dealer is two hours away. We'll be sailing soon, now.

I'm having trouble figuring how to deal with rode. The little hole over the rode box is a pain to stuff the rode into. And it bunches up right under the hole even though there appears to be plenty of room in the box. I'm glad to give up the bunk space right up against the bow. The box doesn't fit, except on its rack and I don't want to drop wet rode on the bunk cushions.

I'm using 200 feet of 3/8-inch New England three-strand nylon line and 22 feet of 3/16- inch PC chain. I think the Danforth type anchor that came with the boat is 13 pounds.

Right now, the rode is in a five-gallon bucket. If I stay with that, I would expect to deploy it from the cockpit.

What solutions are other people using? I'd certainly like to hear from you.

Also, is anyone using an anchor roller? What kind?


John Ward
S/V New Song
Fountaintown, IN (near Indianapolis)

Line: 3/8" New England Premium 3-Strand-- it has 4000 pound breaking load. Good stretch. Top Pick of PS for chafe resistance.

Chain: " Hot dip galvanized proof coil (high strength if you want some more weight), as long as possible to keep the set-up under 35 pounds (about 22-30 feet); the chain is really needed for chafe on the bottom, but the weight helps.

Shackles: 3/8", and a 3/8" swivel between chain and rode; galvanized thimble on the rode. Seize the shackle pins with monel wire to prevent corrosion.

Anchor: Bruce clone, 11.5-pounds, with 22 ft. of chain on 250 ft. of 3/8" rode, under the seat in a Rubber Maid container. I keep the 13-pound Danforth on the bow, for mud. This year I think I will pick up a 16-pound Bruce clone for storm use and move it and the Danforth into the lazarette.

This set-up held my boat in 35-45 knot winds, sand bottom, about 15 feet of water. Out of 10-12 boats in the storm hole, 5 were on the beach in the morning, but not me. I was impressed.


Which Bruce clone do you have?

Bill Effros

I got the Bruce on the boat last year, used it about 6 times. Five were short stays, not very demanding. No problems setting or breaking it out.

The one that really got my attention was anchoring in the sand hole off of Port Jefferson. There were about a dozen (maybe 18) boats in the area. The wind started to kick up to 35+ knots plus, by the time morning came there were about 6 boats beached from anchors dragging and a few others moved around (including one inside my swing). We were fine. Even though we were OK, it was about the limit for the anchor from the tables (rated about 42+- knots). I wanted the next size up.


Why did you go with 3/8 line instead of -inch?


-inch is too much for the boat. Believe it or not, using too heavy a rode is worse. One purpose of the rode is to stretch to absorb the shock load (gusts, waves etc.); helps to keep the anchor set and the cleats on the boat. A lot of this came straight out of Chapman. Besides, it is cheaper and easier to use. I am using the Spade for a storm anchor, building the system to deal with a 1000-pound working load (highest number Ive seen for a 22 foot boat in a storm is 900 pounds).

The New England 3/8-inch line has a rating of 1100 pounds working and 4400 breaking, 7/16 is the highest I would go and I think that might be too much (but I might have used it here because of the "storm anchor" statement), -inch is really too much.

And for the record, the shackles are wired. Now the bitter end is a different story.

30 Mar 1999

I like my gallon jug and clothesbasket setup. The clothesbasket is good because all the holes allow the rode to dry out.


I was looking at WM the other day and for a hard bottom, I kind of liked the CQR myself. Ever had any problems with it? I think for the lake I am in that I would be better off with a Bruce for heavy weather since its more round. The bottom is basically mud, a little gravel, and very little rock. However for a hard rock bottom, I think the CQR would do a lot better; that point should drive right in. What kind of anchor setup are you using with the CQR; rode length, chain length?

Steve Little

I use 25' of 5/16-inch chain with a 7:1 scope for Lake Michigan, and I usually carry 150 feet of rode. (I've sailed and anchored also in the North Channel and Lake Superior, but that's is not very frequent.) The "CQR" is really a CQR "type" that I purchased 30 years ago from a West Marine operating from a garage in Chicago -- no lie -- and which may be the progenitor of the chain. (If not, I don't quite know what the deal was, except that I'm pretty sure it was legal.

Maybe some older Chicagoans remember this outfit that preceded Port Supply?) At any rate, it digs in fine and has never dragged. When setting it, I back down until it seems to be holding well. To raise it, I usually power up on it while pulling in line via the primary winch.

There is a real down side to the CQR, and that is storage. Unless you have a decent bowsprit with a good gammon iron, it is difficult to stow on a small boat. If in chocks, it's always getting snagged or being tripped over. Thus, I keep it below or chocked on the stern -- I have room alongside the lazarette. I usually carry a small Danforth for emergencies, though I've never needed it. (And, by the way, the Danforth seems to work well, too, and is less hassle than the CQR.) I think the Bruce shares some of these same problems. If I were buying today, I think I'd give the Spade a darn good look -- it appears easier to store than eiither the plow or the Danforth.

But, most of my summer sailing is out of my home harbor, and there's little anchoring there. (I really should practice anchoring, nonetheless.) When cruising, I like riding to the hook.

Jack Harkins

Practical Sailor's Anchor Test

If I understand PS's method, all anchors were pulled in a nearly straight line, the on-shore winch being only slightly higher than the shallow water in which the anchors were set. Note that the tests involved sand, some clean and some with rocks/debris. In effect, there was no catenary, so their pull tests should have produced less break-out than one would expect if the pull source were a boat six fathoms above the anchor. Varying scopes were measured, though they are not listed in PS's performance table (p.12).

Since most anchors are not the same weight, it probably makes some sense to test a variety of anchors under the same conditions even though anchor weight varies. Considering that two "lightweights" met the 400-pound threshold, and three did not, it seems reasonable to think that maybe those two would be preferable purchases if they were to be used in sand bottoms. Why would one purchase an anchor which breaks free at 270 (test 1) or 200 (test 2) pounds -- and costs $196 -- when for nearly $50 less one could purchase an anchor holding to 406 and 320 pounds (tests one and two respectively)?

I carry both the 35 lb CQR and a Danforth lightweight, though I'm not sure which it is, and it's way too cold to climb into the attic to find out! I sure like the looks of the Spade, partly because stowing it would be so easy. But, I want to see more tests in different kinds of bottoms, and I would certainly like to see what happens in six feet of water!

Still, most folks buy anchors on the basis of God-knows-what, and some empirical tests might be helpful, though these may only be the best currently available.

Jack Harkins
06 Jan 1999

As I understand the Practical Sailor anchor test in the January 1, 1999 issue they attached a 50-foot wire cable directly to the shank of each anchor, walked the anchors out into shallow water, turned on an electric winch and measured the holding power.

Their conclusion was that 2 anchors you never heard of before are better than any anchor you've ever used; and that lightweight anchors performed particularly badly.

This is troubling for those of us who use lightweight anchors if their methodology is valid. Is it?

I was taught that lightweight anchors must be pulled into the bottom horizontally, and that this is achieved by attaching chain to the rode and allowing enough scope so the angle of pull never exceeds 8 degrees. In the test the first site had an initial scope of 6.5:1 so the angle of pull was always greater than 8 degrees. The second site had an initial scope of 7:1 -- as soon as the winch was turned on, the angle of pull exceeded 8 degrees.

Practical Sailor also stated that it was not necessary to use anchors of equivalent sizes. They tested lightweights as light as 10 pounds against anchors weighing as much as 35 pounds then concluded that the heavier anchors had more holding power. Duh.? Wouldn't a 35-pound lightweight style anchor hold better than a 10-pound lightweight style anchor?

If not, why would anyone carry a larger anchor? Am I missing something here?

Bill Effros

If anyone is interested, here is the URL for the Spade Anchor,


I might be ordering one


This is part of an email I got about the Spade anchor:


"When reading PS test results you have to realize that the 1,000 lbs achieved by the SPADE anchor is only the limit of the PS measuring equipment. During tests done by the French Ministry of Transports, a small, 6 lb aluminum anchor held up to 2000 lbs, which was also the limit of the pulling engine.

During ENIM tests, a small 6 lbs steel prototype bent its shank without releasing its holding at about 3,000 lbs (equivalent to a 44' boat with 50 knots of wind).

1. Yes you can dissemble the shank from the fluke only with removing a simple bolt.

2. For your 22'/4000 lbs boat our model 60 is big enough.

3. If you supply us with your postal address, I will send you a complete file and also a drawing of the model 60.

4. Yes, starting with the model 80 and bigger, the shank is hollow, in order to keep the best mechanical resistance with the lightest shank weight and to have the heaviest anchor tip. As you already realize, we didn't intend to manufacture a cheap anchor, but (at a reasonable price) to obtain the best possible results.

5. Cost of model 60 is US $258 in steel and $281 in aluminum with the same outstanding holding power. Shipping is for the steel model is $57 by surface and $120 by air parcel. For the aluminum model: $33 by surface and $64 by air.

6. You can pay either by bank transfer, US check in US $ or by VISA or Mastercard."

Thanks very much for your thoughts on the Spade. Actually, the model 60 Spades are almost exactly the same dimensions as the 22lb Delta. The big difference in 'stowability' is that the Spade breaks down and the Delta doesn't. The Delta would fit in my Cockpit locker, but getting it in and out thru the opening would be a pain. I went ahead and got a Steel model 60 Spade from West Marine this past week.

I figured that even though the holding power is supposed to be the same whether steel or Aluminum, the steel one might set a little faster just due to sheer weight. I plan to put it on 20' of 1/4 chain and 250' of 3/8 New England 3 strand. Thanks again for the recommendation...

03 Feb 2001

This is just my opinion but I would not secure the rode to the boat. If worry about lousing the rig, put a jug on the end so if you need to go quick, you can come back for the anchor later. I have set an anchor in storm condition many times. Usually in a crowed anchorage.

One night while the wind was howling about 30 knots, one boat that was further out in the cove anchor drag, I had anchored in behind due the so many boats. I was keeping an anchor watch (with compass in hand) and notice the boat directly ahead of me looked like it was getting closer. I suited back up, started the motor and brought my boat a little starboard of my current position. When the boat ahead of me anchor let loose, I barely had time to release the anchor

& power a little more to starboard to let the other guy slide by. Since I had a jug tied to my rode, I hollow for Marilyn, and she took the tiller, and I manage to grab the jug hanging over the bow. Tied the rode back off & when back to bed. I would have been hit if I would of had try to cut my 1/2" rode in the dark & would have definitely lost the anchor.

16 Feb 2001

Great idea! I was thinking about adding a cleat in the v-berth are, but I think I like the idea of adding a float to the bitter end better. It probably could be a small float, too. Small enough to fit in the bucket with the rode. After all, it only needs to support the rode, not the anchor or chain. I think I have a small bumper that would work nicely...

16 Feb 2001

Good idea about floatation device on end. This may sound stupid but would a "noodle" for floating swimmers that can be bought at Wal-Mart, etc. be used? They have a hole running down the middle and one might be able to fish line thru then curl it around in tray or bucket to store. Also it would slip thru air scoop to escape with no damage? My boat has no air scoop for this anchor line pass thru but was just wondering.

Richard Day

We have about 10' of chain and at least 200' of nylon line on the anchor. We have not used more than 120' of anchor line on the lake (20'-30' depth), so I never felt that the 80' or so of extra line would not allow us some freedom of movement. Now that we are in costal waters, the depth at anchorages here seems to be more shallow than Navajo Lake, so I think we still have some flexibility.

Only problem that could occur would be that the other boat who is dragging an anchor might start the engine and his prop would cut my anchor line, which is highly improbable and would be the least of my worries when the murder charges I would be facing come in to play. I would just shoot the SOB that caused the problem. I think I will keep the rhode tied off at the end.


I guess the moral of the story is that if you're sharing an anchorage with Alex, either raft up or stay FAR away! ;)

I'd been meaning to mention this to Michael since he said that his anchor and chain were too heavy for his wife to handle easily. A very experienced sailor on the Trailer Sailor bulletin board has highly recommended using an anchor float to retrieve the anchor and rode.

It's a float that seems identical to the round orange fenders some folks here have talked about,about 12-15" in diameter. Attached to it is a line about 3' long, and attached to the other end of that is a stainless steel ring about 6" in diameter that snaps open and closed. When you want to retrieve your anchor, you snap the ss ring around your rode and motor the boat about 45 degrees off the position of your anchor. The ring will slide down the rode pulling the float until it slips over the shank of the anchor, which will then float free to the surface. When you haul in the rode you don't have to support the weight of the anchor because it's already floating at the surface. I haven't used one of these myself, but this guy swears by it and has always impressed me as someone who knows what he's talking about.

But anyway, if you have one of these floats you could probably use the same one to attach to the bitter end of the rode. You'd just have to be extra careful to secure the bitter end properly when you were using the float to retrieve the anchor.

Hope this helps!...
17 Feb 2001

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