I have concrete ballast and don't have any problems. (My boat's at
least 21 years old.) Don't think waterlogging would be a problem -
concrete does fine under water and my ballast has been soaked plenty
of times, mostly from rainwater. Also, I don't think I would want
any heavier ballast because the top of my cockpit drain is now only
about 1 inch above the water. I've seen one other R22 where the back
of the cockpit was below the water line, and then it never drains
What type of ballast do the new R22's have?
Reading one of the blurbs about the older Rhodes having concrete for
ballast. I was wondering what the newer Rhodes have for ballast. Any
ideas on what to do if the concrete gets waterlogged?
As long as we are on a set-the-record-straight morning, ballast on
the Rhodes is a mixture of sand, resin and shot that makes the keel
indestructible for rock bottom sailors.
The cockpit drain is substantially above the water level to allow
sailing with a "normal" crew. Since the Rhodes does not attract
normal buyers, a special drain plug is available for $25,000 (which
includes a free Rhodes). If you have a boat with the drain below the
water level, it is not a Rhodes or you broke your boat or it is diet
Please excuse my ignorance, I think you are saying the newer Rhodes
22 have the ballast in the swing keel in the form of sand, resin and
shot. I have a Ď74 with a substance poured in the middle of the
hull. Is this the same substance that you are talking about?
If you have a swing keel you do not have a Rhodes 22. They have
always been made with a combination keel/centerboard. The very early
Rhodes (which were built by others) did use cement as part of the
forward ballast. The mixture referred to in our ballast is primarily
for filling the void in the fixed keel around the centerboard trunk.
In addition, per the designerís specs, the same material is used for
further ballast under the "head" floor where it also serves as a
distribution base for the mast load.
For what itís worth, whether or not the concrete is waterlogged
doesn't matter. When osmosis takes over, give the boat a bottom
job. Drill out all bubbles, rinse, let dry for about 6 months,
test for dryness, fill with resin mixed with filler. This Old Boat,
a good book, tells you how to do it.
As for the inside of the boat, if the fiberglass is broken from the
mast support, (under the floor in the head area), take up the floor,
cut out all damaged fiberglass that is no longer bonded to the
concrete, remove all concrete that is loose, dry out concrete with
heat lamp, lay multiple layers of (fiberglass) cloth down and soak
the resin to it.
Fix your floor and youíre good to go.