R 22

Rhodes 22


Painting Centerboard

I would like to paint the centerboard. Is there a way to do this without removing the board from the trunk? I guess I could paint it when it is on a marina lift but then I wouldn't have the time to give it multiple coats.

Any innovative ways to get the job done?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Marc Beroz

First, remove everything to get to the floor. There is a U-shaped board over the CB trunk. It is attached with about four long stainless screws, remove the screws, and pop up the U-shaped board. You now have access to the CB trunk. Remove all of the screws holding down the CB cap and gasket and gently pry the cap off. You will now have access to the centerboard. Remove the CB line and lift the CB out (heavy)!

Access under the companion way is a little tight, so it is kind of difficult getting those screws out.

This should work; I just came back in the house from re-installing the CB. It's a pain in the A., but not too bad.

Good luck,

Bill Sparhawk

Only took me 1.5 hours to get to the top of the centerboard trunk. Most of that time was trying to maneuver the seat out of the way in the cabin. Found I could not slip it out of the companionway hatch without lifting the pop-top. Couldn't raise top since mast is tied down on stern & bow rails for the winter. Rummy, once seat top is off, there is nothing else to remove.

The U-shaped board over top of trunk is warped downwards along its inside edges. I was thinking of flipping it over when I re-install it. On my installation, the inside edge of the board is not supported by the trunk. Should it be? The board is also cut about 1/4 inch too narrow. (from outside edge to outside edge). As a result, the screws through the top edge of one side of this board never made it into the stringer. Wouldn't be difficult to cut another U shaped board but I think I'll just try longer screws.

Removed the 37 screws & 10 bolts with nuts from the top of the trunk. The bolts used were flat head. I'm going to replace with pan head. Have not yet been able to pry off the cover. Can't seem to get a blade started anywhere. Bill, did you pry above or below the gasket?

Marc Beroz

I pried on top of the gasket. There wasn't any sealant holding it down, just seemed to bond together slightly after being in contact with each other for so long. I used a small "wonder bar" to get under the cap and pried gently around the cap with it. Once you get it started, you can grab the rubber gasket and pull upward and this will help release the seal.

The inside edge was unsupported on my installation also.

Bill Sparhawk

You must mean the seat / berth on the port side. Does the drawer come out with that?


Think about Micron Extra for painting the trunk.


Thanks for the info Michael. Doesn't surprise me. I figured that was the only right way to do it. I have followed the discussions about removing cap, being careful not to ding gasket, removing screws, dinking around with pulleys, applying bunches of coats of ACP 50. What I don't really know is how much of the settee and floor has to come out and where I'll find all the attachment screws. Are the attachment screws obvious or are some hidden in unexpected places? I really should be outside now taking a good look but it just seems too cold to be lying on that floor!

Marc Beroz

Not really, you can jack/dig hole under the trailer, but to do the job right, and absolutely essential for saltwater, is to paint the trunk too. Up to a point, the paint can be pushed up there, but a much better job can be done by removing the cap.

If you are in fresh water only you might be able to get away without painting it. If you do the painting, replace the line at the same time.


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