R 22

Rhodes 22


Cockpit Drain

I am a brand new Rhodes owner. The boat has been in the water for one week. So far I love it. I do have a question:

The center cockpit drain is attached to a rubber tube that runs through the lazarette to a similar hole in the hull. Is anyone concerned about the security of this should the hose break or become disconnected?

Steven Brill

I don't believe you have to worry about the cockpit drain too much. As well as anything else it merits inspection periodically.


The lazarette hose is fine by me. Like any other thru-hull, treat it nice and it will treat you nice.

I have a story you might be interested in. A thru-hull breaks loose causing a major leak. The hull floods, but the foam floatation keeps the boat from sinking. You make it back to the boat ramp and try to get the boat on the trailer. But nothing works, what’s wrong??

You will have a lot of water in the hull and you’ve added a few tons to the boat’s weight. As soon as the boat is tilted up, the water will rush to the stern. If you don’t get the water out, the trailer will be history and you will be unable to winch it up. What to do? CUT THE HOSE.

The water will now drain, wait and slowly inch the boat out of the water. Replace the hose when you get home.


I've noticed that when we have the boat loaded down with gear, crew (3 adults and 2 teenagers) and provisions etc. she takes on a lot of water into the cockpit thru the cockpit sole drain, but, only when motoring. When we stop motoring/start sailing she drains just fine! Shook me a bit the first time it happened. I'm considering trying to install some sort of removable check valve for these (rare) occasions. Has anyone else experienced this and what was your solution?

Ralph Bibbus
s/v Milagro
26 Apr 1998

So far we've only had three adults on board and haven't seen anything like that. I will keep an eye out for it and let you know.

I think some sort of valve would be an excellent idea. Or, how about some sort of temporary pipe to raise the height on the drain when you are carrying a heavy load?

Steve Brill

I am using a 9.9 hp Mercury 2-stroke that probably weighs at least 75#, plus lots of stuff in the lazarette, plus the gas tank aft under the port seat, plus me aft at 270# w/no problems (the boat that is-- I desperately need to lose my spare tire(s)). The OB is offset on the port side using a hydraulic lift instead of the GB factory unit. Read your owner’s manual about the best angle. Mine was all ready set up when I bought the boat used. I would say that my engine is nearly vertical when operating at 3-6 knots.


Same here; no problems with five on board. The angle of attack of your outboard may be pushing the stern down enough to allow water to back up into the cockpit. Self-draining openings work both ways, as far as I know.

Larry Sparks
S/V Sailsman's Bounty

Great thought on the angle of attack. Didn't even give that a thought. Duh! I've setup the OB to hang at a slight angle (5 degrees?) aft to the transom as possible. At what angle do you have yours set and is there a GB recommendation as far as you know?


Ralph Bibbus
S/V Milagro

Tell your friends out there that there is a cockpit plug available from General Boats for $10 (includes shipping and handling) that solves the reverse self-drain cockpit floor problem when too many are in cockpit.

29 Apr 1998

I cannot express how much I hate the idea of a value/plug in the self-drain.

The Rhodes22 has a large cockpit. If you get pooped by a large wave and the cockpit is unable to drain (IMHO) you will be in trouble. Even a check value might fail or restrict the flow; no good (IMHO). If anything, I want to add more self-drains to my boat.

Fix the problem. Get the weight out of the lazarette, move the fuel tank, remember that 9.9 four-stroke at 110+ pounds; or check the setup on the motor.


I broke off the plastic inside stem on one of my transom thru-hulls that drains the seat drain. (1975) Too much junk in the Lazaret.

Any recommendations on replacements? How thick is the transom?


Knot Necessary
20 Jan 2003

I replaced both transom thru-the-hull drains as well as the seat drains because they were brittle. One had already cracked and filled the lazaret with rainwater twice. I chose to go 1/8" oversize with 1 and 1/8 drains but the original size would be fine.

Try and cut as much sealant away from both sides as possible with a razor. You may get lucky and find the sealant isn't holding much anyway. Remove the nut from the backside of the drain (inside the lazaret). I gave it some gentle persuation with a hammer from inside the lazaret but if you do it the way a professional would you should use a bolt and gently apply pressure from outside against blocks placed against the transom. Frankly the hammer works quite well. I don't know the exact thickness but its thick, you won't damage the boat. The hole should be smooth.

If it isn't you need to make a repair or go oversize. Replace with a good polyurethane caulk. Make sure you get a good bead around both sides and squeeze out the excess, then wipe away.

The port drain (if your boat is like mine) will have to be trimmed to fit next to the motor mount. A grinder, file, or good knife with some patience will do the trick. Now is a good time to replace the drain hose as well. They get brittle as well and build up resistance internally as well as kink if the bend radius is too great. Home Depot or Lowes both have hose if your marine supply doesn't. Hope that helps.

Brad Haslett
20 Jan 2003

You may not have removable through-hulls. My 1986 has nipples fiberglassed to the transom. Unfortunately, they are tapered and the hose / clamps come off easily. I'm thinking about drilling out the glassed in pieces and installing through-hulls.

s/v Whisper
20 Jan 2003

The clamps are fine, just be sure to install them so the tightning screw is easily accessable (meaning you can use a short handled screwdriver at home to get the best leverage but the one and only screwdriver on the boat won't work when you try and make a repair at the lake). I suggest you use clear hose so you can see any obstructions (leaves and such) and can watch the water flow freely.

20 Jan 2003

My boat is an 82' model. I don't know if the plastic thru-the-hull fittings were from GBI or a addition. I hate to give advice on something I haven't seen, BUT, it should be a simple matter of using a wood bit that is the same size as the thru-the-hull hole you have and drilling inward from outside the transom. If you can't cut the nipple off inside the lazaret and polish or sand the inside of the transom smooth (for a tight seal of the thru-the-hull fitting retainer nut) you may have to drill with a slightly oversize bit and go with the next larger fitting. If you goon something up you can always go oversize by 1/8". There is a limit to how many times you can go oversize though, just look at Hunters and Catalinas, they have a huge hole in the transom you can walk through! The key to drilling anything is to go slow, don't generate too much heat, and by all means keep the drill bit aligned with the hole. Good luck.

20 Jan 2003

web page developed by Logic Unlimited, Inc.