I asked the master of the Rhodes22, the tap method is used all over
the boat. It seems the "wood screws" are harder to get right (lift
and bulge), the threads are larger and more spread apart (the bigger
the screws, the more force) but they do work. Itís just a safer
production method with the tap, and he throws in a new wrinkle. He
likes to do a shallow countersink to remove the hard, brittle gel
coat from the softer fiberglass to stop spider-webbing.
PS. I have to give them credit, it takes longer to do the job with
All right, all right, I give up. I'm running out right now to buy
my ľ-20 and 10-32 Rhodes22 special edition taps. I like the idea
of countersinking the gelcoat. I've got one of those already. I'm
still going to stick with Boat Life caulk. I hope GB didn't use
5200 on my ports, as they leak and will have to come out for
No, it's silicon. I had to redo mine. I tried to talk them into
using 4200 but they would not do it. Now, if they would just use
more and stop worrying about cleanup. With a few more beads and not
over- tightening, life would be perfect.
On the self-tapping screw front, I agree and suggest that perhaps
using a tap and machine thread screws would be a good idea. A recent
call to GB revealed that the genoa track is installed that way. I
had purchased the mast crane kit and installed the pivot block on
the cabin top last year. The instructions dictated that the block
be installed with machine screws after tapping the fiberglass and
(dare I say it) 3M 5200 sealant.