R 22

Rhodes 22



I just picked up the CDI flexible furler 2. It looks like it will be great, but I haven't used it yet.

Sail changes can be accomplished, but you need to attach a messenger line to the halyard before you lower the genoa. Otherwise, the end goes up the furler, never to be seen again!

I really don't think that this will be a big issue. I like the idea that I won't need to worry about tangles at the swivel 26 feet up the mast, and a messenger line doesn't seem like it will be a big problem for the occasional sail change.

I'm having 2 headsails modified: a 175 will get luff tape and a luff pad. A 150 will be cut down to about 130%, and will get luff tape. It already has an elaborate luff pad on it.

I also have an old main that I would like to replace. The sail is in reasonable shape, except that the seam at the bottom of the tube sleeve is starting to go. Let me know what you do, because I have the same tube furler you have inside the IMF mast. I'd like to know where you can get a main made to the old specs. Stan said the new design uses a groove in the tube, like the newer genoa furler. I'd rather not have to replace that tube...


The harken system is nice, I think it is a chose between CDI and the harken.

The CDI is nice stuff and will server you well. The harken head swivel will give you better sail shape but the lower swivel is fixed (the only harken unit that is true anymore), but I like how it stucks up the sails (the luff pad helps), the lower drum comes off that make trailing a little better(the tube it longer then the mast), also I can have someone haul it from the cockpit while I feed, simple to tension. Feather light reefing, The foil is better built and all parts are top notch. I know the question you are asking is it worth the 400+ difference, It is a hard call, the CDI will work, but the Harken is a better unit, I would get it again is a yes.

As far as sail sizes, I have a 100% and a 130%, The 100 is find in heavy air but the 130% was not enough in light, I think I will order up a 150% for the session, you have to remember 1 sail will not do it all, they loose all shape after 20-30% reef. I might be able to work a harken sail at the sail time I do the mine(the tape and lengths change), but normally it is a pain-in-the-ass order for them, they can only get it wrong, the CDI match what they nominally do.

28 Jan 2001

One thing to keep in mind is (I think Block brought it up earlier)that furler do jam. I when with the Schafer Snapfurl system. If you get an overlap on the furling line, trying to get into an enclosed drum is a real pain. It happen a once on Bill Hunter 28. He has the Harken system. There was just no way to undo the overlap. We finally had to bring down both sail so we could work on the drum and untangle the mess the line had gotten into. Of course, if your careful an overlap won't happen but it only takes that one time of not holding enough tension on the line as you let the sail out. "Practial Sailor" write up on the Schafer Snapfurl didn't hurt my decision either.

02 Feb 2001

Michael, I'm not adverse to spending the money for the Harken Flexible furler or the 00AL, if there are real advantages. How do you like it? Also, did GB provide you w/the Genoa for it on your new boat? Wow big did you go with. I'm thinking either 130 or 150%. The 175 seems to overpower the boat, and I wind up reefing down a lot to keep the boat on her feet.


Bill Berner

I use the Harken flexible furler, very nice but it is about 800 at discount, do you want me to keep going?


Your got 16 years on the sails, I have a hard time believing they are not starched out completely and their can not be much left in the fabric, with out seeing them it is a hard call but it is a pretty good bet that time for new and "good money going into bad".

It sounds like a you want a CDI F2 and a new pair of sails, I would give GB a call 252-482-4372, you will need a new forstay (not a bad idea either at that age), the CDI F2 and the sails, they have them, know the boat and they might fit the first time :-) It will also make your life simpler (nothing to figure out) and stan is usually fair in is his pricing for this kind of stuff (might even be cheaper than a local dealer / loft, it not custom or any unknowns). BTW call soon, their is usually a large spring order for sails that might be helpful to you.

24 Jan 2001

My '85 still has its original sails, both main and 175.

I'm seriously thinking of replacing both and getting a new furler before the season begins.My furler is the old aluminum tube and it's actually bent a bit near the top.

I'd like a reefing furler that would allow me to change sails easily, maybe even a double foil.

Who's got what and how do you like it?Who should make my sails.I assume I'll need a foam luff pad.

I'm a big believer in going midline in times of performance and price point.

Thanks for the help.

Bill Berner

My Harken Unit 0 has been completely bulletproof since 1993. I have upper & lower swivels so my genoa can properly utilize a foam luff pad. Both upper & lower swivels have built-in snap shackles which have been nice to have & completely trouble free. The Harken Unit 0 has extruded aluminum head foil sections that go together with internal connectors & setscrews. So far, this connection system has been completely reliable. The Torlon ball bearings have been completely reliable. The only maintenance on the bearings has been an occasional fresh water rinse with the hose while I'm swabbing the deck. The system is remarkably friction-free. It spins as easily as a bicycle wheel.

I am completely sold on these new generation roller furling genoas with their foam luff pads. I have a 150% Bi-Radial genoa from JSI in Florida which is made from Bainbridge's Cruise-Lam Dacron, Kevlar, Mylar composite sailcloth. From 150% down to about 100%, the furl & reduced sail shape appear darn near perfect.

If the furler has been used in light air & then you suddenly encounter some heavy air, you might get about 1 turn of twist on the furler as the slop, in the turns of control line on the drum, is taken up - i.e. you might have about 1 turn more sail unfurl without any movement in the furling control line until this slop is taken up. If you operate the furler in heavy air, it stops & stays right where you cleat off the furling control line with virtually no twist.

I installed the system myself over the winter of 1992/93. The Harken installation manual is pretty complete & easy to follow. To prevent a halyard wrap, it's important to cut the head foil sections such that they come to within an inch of the top of the head stay & cut the luff on the genoa so that the top of the upper swivel comes to within a couple of inches of the top of the head foil. When the genoa is hoisted, to prevent a halyard wrap, you want the unsupported length of the genoa halyard between the upper swivel & the masthead to be as short as possible & be at a slight angle relative to the head foil - i.e. a slight rearward pull vs. parallel to the head foil is desirable. It doesn't need to be much of an angle, 5 deg is plenty. I don't have any sort of halyard restrainer & I've never experienced a halyard wrap.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
10 Jan 2002

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