I just picked up the CDI flexible furler 2. It looks like it will be
great, but I haven't used it yet.
Sail changes can be accomplished, but you need to attach a messenger
line to the halyard before you lower the genoa. Otherwise, the end
goes up the furler, never to be seen again!
I really don't think that this will be a big issue. I like the idea
that I won't need to worry about tangles at the swivel 26 feet up
the mast, and a messenger line doesn't seem like it will be a big
problem for the occasional sail change.
I'm having 2 headsails modified: a 175 will get luff tape and a luff
pad. A 150 will be cut down to about 130%, and will get luff tape.
It already has an elaborate luff pad on it.
I also have an old main that I would like to replace. The sail is in
reasonable shape, except that the seam at the bottom of the tube
sleeve is starting to go. Let me know what you do, because I have
the same tube furler you have inside the IMF mast. I'd like to know
where you can get a main made to the old specs. Stan said the new
design uses a groove in the tube, like the newer genoa furler. I'd
rather not have to replace that tube...
The harken system is nice, I think it is a chose between CDI and the
The CDI is nice stuff and will server you well. The harken head
swivel will give you better sail shape but the lower swivel is fixed
(the only harken unit that is true anymore), but I like how it
stucks up the sails (the luff pad helps), the lower drum comes off
that make trailing a little better(the tube it longer then the mast),
also I can have someone haul it from the cockpit while I feed,
simple to tension. Feather light reefing, The foil is better built
and all parts are top notch. I know the question you are asking is
it worth the 400+ difference, It is a hard call, the CDI will work,
but the Harken is a better unit, I would get it again is a yes.
As far as sail sizes, I have a 100% and a 130%, The 100 is find in
heavy air but the 130% was not enough in light, I think I will order
up a 150% for the session, you have to remember 1 sail will not do it
all, they loose all shape after 20-30% reef. I might be able to work
a harken sail at the sail time I do the mine(the tape and lengths
change), but normally it is a pain-in-the-ass order for them, they
can only get it wrong, the CDI match what they nominally do.
28 Jan 2001
One thing to keep in mind is (I think Block brought it up
earlier)that furler do jam. I when with the Schafer Snapfurl system.
If you get an overlap on the furling line, trying to get into an
enclosed drum is a real pain. It happen a once on Bill Hunter 28. He
has the Harken system. There was just no way to undo the overlap. We
finally had to bring down both sail so we could work on the drum and
untangle the mess the line had gotten into. Of course, if your careful
an overlap won't happen but it only takes that one time of not
holding enough tension on the line as you let the sail out.
"Practial Sailor" write up on the Schafer Snapfurl didn't hurt my
02 Feb 2001
Michael, I'm not adverse to spending the money for the Harken
Flexible furler or the 00AL, if there are real advantages. How do you
like it? Also, did GB provide you w/the Genoa for it on your new
boat? Wow big did you go with. I'm thinking either 130 or 150%. The
175 seems to overpower the boat, and I wind up reefing down a lot to
keep the boat on her feet.
I use the Harken flexible furler, very nice but it is about 800 at
discount, do you want me to keep going?
Your got 16 years on the sails, I have a hard time believing they
are not starched out completely and their can not be much left in the
fabric, with out seeing them it is a hard call but it is a pretty
good bet that time for new and "good money going into bad".
It sounds like a you want a CDI F2 and a new pair of sails, I would
give GB a call 252-482-4372, you will need a new forstay (not a bad
idea either at that age), the CDI F2 and the sails, they have them,
know the boat and they might fit the first time :-) It will also make
your life simpler (nothing to figure out) and stan is usually fair in
is his pricing for this kind of stuff (might even be cheaper than a
local dealer / loft, it not custom or any unknowns). BTW call soon,
their is usually a large spring order for sails that might be helpful
24 Jan 2001
My '85 still has its original sails, both main and 175.
I'm seriously thinking of replacing both and getting a new furler
before the season begins.My furler is the old aluminum tube and it's
actually bent a bit near the top.
I'd like a reefing furler that would allow me to change sails easily,
maybe even a double foil.
Who's got what and how do you like it?Who should make my sails.I
assume I'll need a foam luff pad.
I'm a big believer in going midline in times of performance and price
Thanks for the help.
My Harken Unit 0 has been completely bulletproof since 1993. I have upper &
lower swivels so my genoa can properly utilize a foam luff pad. Both upper
& lower swivels have built-in snap shackles which have been nice to have &
completely trouble free. The Harken Unit 0 has extruded aluminum head foil
sections that go together with internal connectors & setscrews. So far,
this connection system has been completely reliable. The Torlon ball
bearings have been completely reliable. The only maintenance on the
bearings has been an occasional fresh water rinse with the hose while I'm
swabbing the deck. The system is remarkably friction-free. It spins as
easily as a bicycle wheel.
I am completely sold on these new generation roller furling genoas with
their foam luff pads. I have a 150% Bi-Radial genoa from JSI in Florida
which is made from Bainbridge's Cruise-Lam Dacron, Kevlar, Mylar composite
sailcloth. From 150% down to about 100%, the furl & reduced sail shape
appear darn near perfect.
If the furler has been used in light air & then you suddenly encounter some
heavy air, you might get about 1 turn of twist on the furler as the slop, in
the turns of control line on the drum, is taken up - i.e. you might have
about 1 turn more sail unfurl without any movement in the furling control
line until this slop is taken up. If you operate the furler in heavy air,
it stops & stays right where you cleat off the furling control line with
virtually no twist.
I installed the system myself over the winter of 1992/93. The Harken
installation manual is pretty complete & easy to follow. To prevent a
halyard wrap, it's important to cut the head foil sections such that they
come to within an inch of the top of the head stay & cut the luff on the
genoa so that the top of the upper swivel comes to within a couple of inches
of the top of the head foil. When the genoa is hoisted, to prevent a
halyard wrap, you want the unsupported length of the genoa halyard between
the upper swivel & the masthead to be as short as possible & be at a slight
angle relative to the head foil - i.e. a slight rearward pull vs. parallel
to the head foil is desirable. It doesn't need to be much of an angle, 5
deg is plenty. I don't have any sort of halyard restrainer & I've never
experienced a halyard wrap.
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
10 Jan 2002