R 22

Rhodes 22


Jib Furler & Lines

How do you run your jib furling line? I'm not pleased with the way the factory does it--straight back over the cabin top--doesn't look very clean and seems to be in the way on the foredeck.

Gary Sanford
s/v Raven

My boat has lifelines. I have installed Johnson 40-501 stanchion- mount bullseye fairleads on the lifeline stanchions with a clam cleat back at the cockpit to lead the roller furling line to the cockpit. Routing the furling line along the toe rail clears the starboard side of the cabin top for running the spinnaker pole topping lift and spinnaker pole downhaul back to the cockpit.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
20 May 98

The original furler on my '88 was made by GB (they're still selling something very similar). It consists of a 26 ft long 1" aluminum tube through which the forestay runs. A split nylon "plug" at each end provides a bearing surface around the stay. At the lower end is a pair of flanges that contain the furling line when it is wrapped up. The jib was made with a pocket the length of the luff, into which the whole affair is inserted. Grommets at the head and tack are bolted to the furler tube. It is simple and effective but stiff. I also discovered it had been bent in a couple of places.

After struggling with it for a season, I decided to install a CDI FF2. This has required having a new forestay made (this one with a turnbuckle) and having a #6 luff tape sewn to the jib. I look forward to an easier time with the massive headsail. We'll see...

Gary Sanford
s/v Raven
23 Apr 1998

My new boat came withthe Harken 00AL installed per my request. I have the following questions for any of you familiar with this unit.

1. The instructions provide/require that the aft lead block be a ratcheting type, like the Harken Little Hexratchet. The purpose is to maintain the proper amount of tension on the furling line when, I guess, unfurling the sail. GB did not install this block and I am curious whether others are using the unit without it. If you have the block, where have you installed it? I know the general GB instructions for the use of the CDI furler call for applying some manual tension on the line when unfurling and I suppose this may work just fine but the manual makes it sound like bad things will happen without it.

2. I need to secure the turnbuckle inside the furling drum - has anyone had experience doing this with the mast up? If so, exactly how did you go about exposing the turnbuckle to do it?

3. The furling line exits the drum chafing against one of the side panels on the drum. I'm not sure if this is because of improper placement of the forward lead block - which I believe is positioned for the CDI furler or some other reason, but I can't see it operating very satisfactorily without some adjustment. Can any of you witht his unit tell me where your forward lead block is located? Are there other reasons which could cause this problem?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Bruce Greenwald
17 May 2002

I have the Harken 00AL.

First off, ig GB did not send you the manual, you can download it as a PDF from the Harken website. WWW.Harken.com.

As for the specifics. I have the furling line led with the Harken furling line lead kit. There are, if I recall, 3 stanchion mount blocks that I have on the lifeline stanchion on the starboard side. The hexratchet is also a stanchion mount that I have on the most forward upright of the stern pulpit.

I replaced the Horkent horn cleat with a cam cleat mounted on the gunnel at the proper angle to the hexratchet. All in all, it works really nicely.

As for the basket of the furling drum. There are 2 allen screws on the drum that you can loosen. Once you do - be careful, they are not captive, you can easily rotate the drum so that it never rubs against the furling line.

By the way, on the vertical plane the line should come off the drum perpendicular to the head stay. You ca nadjuxt it if necessary by altering the placement of the first block. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I may have even added another on the deck to get the angle right.

Adjusting head stay tension. The lower tube cap, it's black, can be slid up the foil. When you do, there is an aluminum "drun key" that you can easily reomove - again be careful, its not captive. Next, you'll see two tangs under the drum that snap over the special clevis pin that secures the head stay to the chain plate. Release the two tangs and you will then be able to slide the furling drum up high enough to get at the turnbuckle. If sometimes also take additional tension on the halyard w=hich will lift the entire furler higher on the headstay.

Alternatively, you could adjust your lowers and back stay to help you get proper tension on the headstay, ig it doesn't mess up the gfeometry of the mast.

Hope this helps.

18 May 2002

Manual tension control on the furling line will work just fine. That's the way roller furlers have been operated from the beginning. Just don't forget to hold onto the control line during unfurling or you may get a huge mess up at the bow!

If you want automatic line tension control, then the Harken Hexaratchet block would seem to be a reasonable option.

The turnbuckle on my Harken unit 0 has lock nuts. Once I got the weather helm/lee helm balance set where I liked it, I used Loctite on the lock nuts. They've never come loose in almost 10 years of sailing & thousands of trailering miles.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
18 May 2002

web page developed by Logic Unlimited, Inc.