R 22

Rhodes 22


Mooring Chocks

I'm a brand new Rhodes owner. The boat has been in the water for one week. So far I love it. I do have a question:

There are no chocks on the bow for reducing chafe on the mooring line. How has anyone dealt with this?

Steven Brill

I installed two sets of chocks, Serpentine style, for 3/4-inch line. The larger size is to leave room for the chafing cover. Location was on the bow close to the headsail the other was angled back for a spring line. Tapped them into the toe rail and bedded with 3M 4200 (not a typo for 5200, might want them out someday). Leaving them on the toe rail helped get the rode off the deck gelcoat.

When I had my boat set up for a mooring I used a two-pendant system. The first was spliced with a STAINLESS STEEL shackle to the bow eye (do not mix and match the metals here and use a heavy duty shackle). This line was the taught line to the mooring. The second line was a "loose line", with an eye spliced for the bow cleat and chafing covers at the chocks. The boat rode nicely and I could sleep at night.


So the big question is: Can the chocks be screwed into the toe rail or do they have to be through-bolted into the cabin? If they have to be through-bolted, they will be lower than the toe rail and their usefulness may be somewhat compromised.

Steve Brill

A few weeks ago you suggested Skene chocks. You also expected some controversy about how you attached them. Well, I'm ready to attach. How did you do it?

The hot weather and small Indiana lakes take a lot of the fun out of sailing.

John Ward
Fountaintown, IN (near Indianapolis)
11 Jul 1999

Buy a caulk gun tube of 3M 5200 Fast Cure (the little one makes a mess), a number 10 or 1/4-20 tap (you might need both for the small and large size, please check), a new set of titanium bits and 1 to 11/ 2-inch stainless steel machine screws.

Find your locations and mark the positions, then double check. You have one shot for a neat job. Drill a small pilot hole, going through the gelcoat very slowly. The bit must cut the gel coat and the underlying fiberglass otherwise the gelcoat will spiderweb and spread over time. Use the bit recommended for the tap, but drop the size by one (a little more for it to cut threads into, the size was recommended for steel). Drill the hole, correcting for any bit-walk from the pilot hole, going very slowly, straight, vertical and perfectly round (do not shake/move the drill).

Use the tap to cut the threads. Use 3M 5200 for bedding; shoot some in the holes; hand-start the screws and coat the lower threads and the bottom of the fitting (enough so some will come out when tightening). Tighten everything up, but do not overdo it or you will squeeze out all the 5200 leaving a dry fitting. The 5200 is holding it as much as the screws. Bring a nail to insert in the tip of the 5200 when not shooting it and finish using the tube in one day. Clean up and you're done. It will take about 2 days to be ready for use.


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