[Rhodes22-list] Standing Rigging and Tension

[Roger Pihlaja]

Mark,

Thank you

Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Kaynor" <mark@kaynor.org>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Standing Rigging and Tension


> Roger,
>
> I put it into the document library in MS Word format.
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402@centurytel.net>
> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 7:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Standing Rigging and Tension
>
>
> > Al & Michelle,
> >
> > Enclosed is a copy of my rig tuning procedure.  I was kind of hoping
this
> > procedure would have made onto the FAQ web site by now, but I guess that
> > didn't happen.  The standard Loo's tension gauge will do just fine for
> your
> > purposes.  Enjoy!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________
> >
> >                        Rig Tuning Procedure For Rhodes 22
> >
> > The 1st thing you want to do is measure the length of the forestay on
> center
> > from pin-to-pin.  On my 1976, standard mainsail, Rhodes 22, this
> measurement
> > is 333-5/8 inches.  Write this number down because it is very important.
> > If your forestay length is more than a couple of inches different than
> this,
> > you might want to reset it to 333-5/8 inches as a reasonable starting
> point.
> >
> > Now step the mast.  Take the excess slack out of the forestay &
backstays
> > with the backstay adjuster.  You don't want things real tight at this
> point.
> > All upper & lower sidestays should be slack.  Go to the base of the
mast,
> > pull a halyard taut along the mast & sight up the mast from the rear &
> from
> > the side.  Any deviation from a straight mast will show up as a gap
> between
> > the mast & the halyard.  There should be no observable bend or bowing in
> the
> > mast.  If there is, the mast may have been dropped & bent at some point
or
> > may have some other problem.  You should call Stan at GBI & he will be
> able
> > to help you work out your problem.
> >
> > I like to use a Loo's tension gage.  The model 91 is the appropriate
range
> > for the Rhodes 22.  Remember to always measure the tension at the same
> > relative position on each shroud every time.  On Dynamic Equilibrium, I
> > have marked these measurement points with little spots of paint on the
> > wire right at my eye level.
> >
> > The upper sidestays are adjusted next.  Raise a tape measure up the mast
> on
> > a halyard.  Measure to the same point on each side of the boat.  I like
to
> > use the edge of the toerail right next to the sidestay.  Tighten the
> > turnbuckles a little at a time on each side to adjust the upper
sidestays
> > until both sides are the same length +/- 1/4" & tensioned to
approximately
> > 300 lbs +/- 5%.  This procedure assures the top of the mast is centered
in
> > the boat & the upper sidestays are tensioned equally port & starboard.
> >
> > What you do next depends upon whether your boat has the IMF mainsail or
a
> > conventional mainsail.
> >
> > On an IMF mainsail boat, I would adjust the 4 lower sidestays so they
were
> > all approximately the same tension.  I would start with approximately
200
> > lbs +/- 5% on all 4 lowers.  This is not a lot of shroud tension.  Check
> for
> > mast straightness with the halyard again.  You want the mast to be
> straight
> > in order for the IMF furling mechanism inside of it to be able to turn
> > without binding &/or excessive wear on the bearings.  Minor bending or
> > bowing can be taken out with the lower sidestays.  However, I would call
> > Stan at GBI if I couldn't get the mast to straighten out with a
difference
> > of about +/- 15% on lower sidestay tension.
> >
> > My Rhodes 22 has a conventional mainsail.  I have a very roachy fully
> > battened mainsail which has been cut to respond to mast bend.  I have my
> > backstay adjuster set-up to adjust quickly from the cockpit with
> calibration
> > marks on the line.
> >
> > Tighten the turnbuckles equally & a little a time on each side to keep
> > things reasonably centered.  I adjust the forward lower sidestays to 400
> lbs
> > +/- 5% of tension, and the aft lower sidestays to 200 lbs +/- 5% of
> tension.
> > Then, check for mast straightness with the halyard.  Believe it or not,
> the
> > standard mast on the Rhodes 22 is such a stiff telephone pole that, at
200
> > lbs differential tension on the lowers, there will be a barely
detectable
> > fore/aft bend in the mast with no sails set & the backstay adjuster
slack.
> > At 400 lbs of tension on the lower forward sidestays, when the backstay
> > adjuster is tensioned, primarily only the upper half of the mast is
pulled
> > towards the stern.  The forestay is tightened & the mast is bent at the
> same
> > time.  Both actions are exactly what you want to obtain proper sail
shape
> in
> > a high wind situation.
> >
> > Now go out sailing.  On a close hauled course, put up enough sail to
heel
> > the boat over about 15-20 deg.  Make certain the rudder blade &
> centerboard
> > are all the way down.  On my Rhodes 22, the above tension settings cause
> the
> > mast to remain straight & more or less centered in the boat.  The
primary
> > thing to check is the upper sidestays.  On my Rhodes 22 with the above
> > unloaded tension settings, at 15-20 deg of heel, the windward upper
> sidestay
> > should have about 450 lbs tension & the leeward upper sidestay should
have
> > about 150 lbs of tension.  I have my upper sidestays set-up such that
the
> > leeward upper sidestay tension drops to 0 lbs at about 30 degrees of
heel.
> > At this point, the windward upper sidestay will be under about 600 lbs
> > tension.  Note, normally the stays are set-up to give proper shroud
> tension
> > & the correct amount of weather helm with full sail set.  This tends to
> > limit the weather window in which you can do this sort of tuning.
> >
> > When all sails are properly trimmed & the boat is "in the groove", there
> > should only a slight amount of weather helm.  If there is a huge weather
> > helm, or neutral, or lee helm; then, you need to adjust the rake angle
of
> > the mast.  If you have neutral or lee helm; then increase the forestay
> > length.  To get rid of excessive weather helm, shorten the forestay.
The
> > balance of the boat is very sensitive to this mast rake angle, so change
> it
> > in increments of about 1/2" at a time.  Note, a slight amount of weather
> > helm is desirable because it provides feedback to the helmsman, thus
> > allowing
> > him to steer a better course.  Excessive weather helm tends to tire the
> > helmsman out.
> >
> > Once I'm happy, I lock the adjustment in place by taping the lock nuts
on
> > the turnbuckles.  I find I only need to do this adjustment once.  The
> > Rhodes 22 is such a strongly built little boat that nothing ever seems
to
> > stretch or bend.  I do check the side-to-side upper sidestay length at
the
> > beginning of every season; but, it's never changed in the 13+ seasons
I've
> > been measuring it.  Trailering set-up only involves adjusting the lower
> > sidestays since the rest are not disturbed.
> >
> > As far as rig tension settings on the trailer vs. off the trailer, I've
> > found the only rig tension adjustment that significantly changes is the
> > backstay
> > tension.  You can set the tension on the rest of the standing rigging
> > according to the
> > above procedure on the trailer as long as the boat & trailer are
> reasonably
> > level.
> > It will be very close to optimum when you
> > get the boat in the water, certainly good enough to do the on-the-water
> > fine tuning described above.
> >
> > FYI, I slack off on the backstay tension when Dynamic Equilibrium is not
> > being sailed.  As I mentioned above, the backstay adjuster has
sufficient
> > power to affect the shape of the hull.  Greatly exaggerated, imagine the
> > ends of the hull being pulled upward like a 22 foot long banana when the
> > backstay
> > adjuster is tight!  There is no sense leaving the hull & rig under that
> kind
> > of stress when the boat is not being sailed.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Al Miller" <al.shell@verizon.net>
> > To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 10:35 PM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Standing Rigging and Tension
> >
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I read some time ago on the list about a neat method of using a
> > > Loos(sp?) gauge to correctly tension the standing rigging on the
Rhodes.
> > > For the life of me I cannot find the article, even though I have about
a
> > > year's worth of saved mail for technical info.
> > >
> > > Will someone please point me in the right direction so that I can
locate
> > > this article?  Maybe a re-post would be helpful to others, too.  I
found
> > > a Loos gauge for the 1/8 inch wire used for the rigging, but it was
not
> > > the "pro" model.  Would the standard be adequate?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Al/Michelle Miller
> > > S/V Mishka
> > > Tampa, FL
> > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________
> > > Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________
> > Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
> _________________________________________________
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