[Rhodes22-list] Fw: [rhodes-list] Replacing Floatation Foam & Finishing The
V-Berth Area
Toad the Wet Sprocket
rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
Sun, 08 Sep 2002 23:08:03 -0400
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><BR>Bill,</P>
<P> Thanks for the forward. Roger remembered the posting and I remembered reading but neither could find it. Normally I copy and save info like that to a .doc file but must have overlooked that one. Thank you very much.</P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Todd<BR><BR><BR>
<DIV>Please respond to <A href="mailto:sprocket80@hotmail.com">sprocket80@hotmail.com</A></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>From: "Bill Effros" <BILL@EFFROS.COM>
<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org
<DIV></DIV>To: "R22 List" <RHODES22-LIST@RHODES22.ORG>
<DIV></DIV>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fw: [rhodes-list] Replacing Floatation Foam & Finishing The V-Berth Area
<DIV></DIV>Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 22:29:51 -0400
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Todd,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Did anyone forward this to you? This was Roger's reply to Denny's question:
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Bill Effros
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----
<DIV></DIV>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <CEN09402@CENTURYTEL.NET>
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES-LIST@SAILNET.NET>
<DIV></DIV>Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:07 AM
<DIV></DIV>Subject: [rhodes-list] Replacing Floatation Foam & Finishing The V-Berth
<DIV></DIV>Area
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Hi Denny,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The best way to replace your flotation foam is use the 2-part polyurethane
<DIV></DIV>pour-in-place product. Check out the 2001 Defender Marine Buyers Guide on
<DIV></DIV>P.56. One quart of prefoam mixture (resin + catalyst) will react & expand
<DIV></DIV>to approximately 1.5 cubic feet of rigid floatation foam. Defender will
<DIV></DIV>sell you containers as big as 5 gal of resin & 5 gal of catalyst. Depending
<DIV></DIV>upon where you will be putting the foam, you may need to build some
<DIV></DIV>temporary forms to keep the prefoam mixture from flowing into places you
<DIV></DIV>don't want it to be before it cures in about 20 minutes. Think of it like
<DIV></DIV>pouring concrete. After the prefoam mixture starts to cure, you will even
<DIV></DIV>be able to trowel the top surface for a nice smooth, level finish. Just
<DIV></DIV>remember to keep your trowel wet with water & clean it off immediately
<DIV></DIV>before final cure.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>NOTE: The resin, catalyst, & prefoam mixture are BAD SHIT! Be sure you read
<DIV></DIV>& understand the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) that will come packed
<DIV></DIV>with the product. The prefoam mixture is incredibly sticky, the fumes are
<DIV></DIV>noxious & flammable, & the catalyst & resin are moderately toxic by skin
<DIV></DIV>contact & ingestion. This is definitely a good time to wear a disposable
<DIV></DIV>Tyvek jump suit, booties, rubber gloves, & hair net. If you have a
<DIV></DIV>respirator with an organic vapor cartridge (the same cartridge specified for
<DIV></DIV>painting), then use it. Otherwise, ventilate the cabin as much as you can.
<DIV></DIV>As much as possible, use disposible containers & stirring sticks to mix &
<DIV></DIV>pour the prefoam mixture.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>The bow floatation foam on my 1976 R-22 was basically intact. However, the
<DIV></DIV>old foam was a little friable. If you bumped it or rubbed up against it,
<DIV></DIV>little particles would flake off as dust. At the aft end of my V-berth,
<DIV></DIV>there is a 15" wide storage area under the cushions. The fresh water tank
<DIV></DIV>is installed in this middle of this space & takes up about half of the
<DIV></DIV>storage area. I encapsulated the vertical surface of the foam in this
<DIV></DIV>storage area by rolling on a couple coats of thickened epoxy. This made a
<DIV></DIV>nice smooth, waterproof finish on the inside of the storage area, stopped
<DIV></DIV>the pieces from flaking off, & stabilized the old floatation foam.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>My original V-berth cushions were made with a 1/4" thick plywood backing.
<DIV></DIV>The original V-berth had no covering under the cushions between the cushions
<DIV></DIV>& the floatation foam. The original design depended upon the rigidity of
<DIV></DIV>the 1/4" thick plywood backing to span the 15" wide gap at the aft end of
<DIV></DIV>the V-berth. 1/4" thick plywood might be OK to support little kids. But,
<DIV></DIV>for bigger people, you're going to want something stronger under the
<DIV></DIV>cushions spanning this gap. A few years ago, I replaced all the original
<DIV></DIV>interior cushions in my R-22. New interior cushions from GBI do not have
<DIV></DIV>the plywood backing. I used the old cushions as a template & made a V-berth
<DIV></DIV>"sole" from 1/2" thick marine grade plywood. I made the V-berth sole in two
<DIV></DIV>pieces, hinged along the centerline with a 72" long SS piano hinge. You
<DIV></DIV>will find that you can just fit the folded V-berth sole in thru the
<DIV></DIV>companionway hatch & then let it unfold like butterfly wings as you push it
<DIV></DIV>past the mast compression post. The V-berth sole is a very nonlinear piece
<DIV></DIV>of joinery. Be prepared to take the pieces/parts in & out several times &
<DIV></DIV>do a lot of fine trimming with a block plane & sanding to get the final fit
<DIV></DIV>just right. At least I had to; however, your cabinet making skills may be
<DIV></DIV>much better than mine! The floatation foam supports most of my new V-berth
<DIV></DIV>sole. However, my new V-berth sole does span the 15" wide gap at the aft
<DIV></DIV>end of the V-berth, which is why I used 1/2" thick plywood. I have two 15"
<DIV></DIV>wide X 18" long hatches in the V-berth sole to permit access to the storage
<DIV></DIV>area. My hatchs are hinged with 12" long SS piano hinges. I bored 1" ID
<DIV></DIV>finger holes thru the hatch covers for a place to grip for opening. I
<DIV></DIV>would have to remove the V-berth sole to get my water tank in & out. So, I
<DIV></DIV>simply anchored the V-berth sole with several #8 X 1-1/4" countersunk SS
<DIV></DIV>wood screws at the bow & aft bulkhead. I wasn't certain how to finish my
<DIV></DIV>V-berth sole. I just left it natural for awhile. Then, last summer, I
<DIV></DIV>finally decided to paint it gloss white with an exterior oil-base enamel.
<DIV></DIV>This turned out very nice, sealed the wood grain, it's easy to clean, &
<DIV></DIV>mildew resistant.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Hope this description & suggestions help, good luck with your restoration
<DIV></DIV>Denny!
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Roger Pihlaja
<DIV></DIV>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>----- Original Message -----
<DIV></DIV>From: "Dennis J Sitler" <DJSITLER@GMPEXPRESS.NET>
<DIV></DIV>To: <RHODES-LIST@SAILNET.NET>
<DIV></DIV>Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 10:19 PM
<DIV></DIV>Subject: [rhodes-list] Technical question
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>> Hi All,
<DIV></DIV>> I just got my 1974 Rhodes in my garage and am taking the interior of the
<DIV></DIV>> cabin apart to fix up. I was up in the v-berth and the starboard side was
<DIV></DIV>> totally loose and slid down past where it was glassed to side making a
<DIV></DIV>> grinding crackling sound. I wondered why it was going down so far if there
<DIV></DIV>> was foam under it. I checked the port side and that was loose part way, so
<DIV></DIV>I
<DIV></DIV>> loosened the rest and looked under thinking there should be a block of
<DIV></DIV>foam
<DIV></DIV>> there. What I saw was about 3 1/2 garbage bags of small pieces of foam,
<DIV></DIV>not
<DIV></DIV>> enough to fill the cavity 1/2 full. This made me wonder if it was over 1/2
<DIV></DIV>> full of water and the rest full of pieces of foam surrounded by water,
<DIV></DIV>> wether it would stay afloat or just rest lighter on the bottom. What is
<DIV></DIV>the
<DIV></DIV>> floatation on the new and reconditioned Rhodes like. I am open to
<DIV></DIV>> suggestions or ideas other than blow it up. I still have good hopes for my
<DIV></DIV>> boat and want to have it ready by late April, but one of the reasons I
<DIV></DIV>> wanted a Rhodes was they aren't suppose to sink and I'm not sure of that
<DIV></DIV>on
<DIV></DIV>> this one. I'm afraid to check under the cockpit.
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Denny
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
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