[ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up? Bill E
- Clarify please
Bill Effros
bill@effros.com
Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:16:48 -0500
Bill,
The key is the waters you are in. Different stuff works best for different
water; temperature; different stuff in the water. Once you find something
that works for you, stick with it.
Here in the Sound at the western end, Michael, Bruce and I have been very
happy with the Pettit Ultima SR. I sent the Ultima down to Stan for
application when my boat was new, and have used it ever since. The SR part
is new. I think of it as "slime reduction" because that is what it does. I
have neither hard nor soft growth at the end of the season on anything that
still has paint on it. I hose it down to get the salt off. The bottom is
then as smooth as a baby's bottom. I put on another gallon in the spring.
I have a red warning coat under the black coat so I can see any place that
has worn through the top coat.
My boat is moored in the narrow opening of a large cove where there is an 8
foot tidal variation and water rushing in and out all day, every day. The
water does more ablating when I'm moored than when I'm moving. That is why
I always apply a thick coat or two. For $160 a year I completely solve my
problem.
Here, again, I fall back to my old standby "If it ain't broke, don't fix
it."
Bill Effros
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Berner" <bberner@optonline.net>
To: "'The Rhodes 22 mail list'" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:28 AM
Subject: RE: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up? Bill
E - Clarify please
> Bill -
>
> I must of missed something in the thread. What paint do you use?
>
> Any idea if it's the same thing that was on the first time you applied it,
> or did you scrape down before the first coat.
>
> Thanks.
>
> BB
>
> Bill Berner
> 191 South Broadway
> Hastings on Hudson, NY 10706
>
> v 914 478 2896
> f 914 478 3856
> e BBerner@optonline.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces@rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces@rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bill Effros
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 6:19 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?
>
> Slim,
>
> That's what I use. I don't sand the stuff--I just put on another coat
each
> year. The water will ablate the paint smooth. I use the whole gallon,
> which is a little more than I need, because I don't trust what is left
over
> to have the correct mix of components. I put extra coats on the rudder
> because more seems to wear off. When I pull my boat the bottom is smooth,
> but the paint has no trouble holding another coat, and there is absolutely
> nothing on it--that's the point as far as I'm concerned. The paint has a
> green cast, but I think that's the biocide no longer hidden by the paint.
I
> use black paint because it hides the green best.
>
> Bill Effros
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Alm" <salm@mn.rr.com>
> To: "Rhodes" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 2:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?
>
>
> > The Zebra Mussels are here in the Mississippi and the Minnesota Rivers.
> >
> > And speaking of cancerous marine life, has anyone heard anything lately
> > about the Chinese Snake Fish? This critter not only infests its
habitat,
> it
> > can wiggle its way across dry land, apparently quite a distance, and
> infest
> > neighboring waters as well. Scary!
> >
> > But I digress--back to bottom paint. Sorry to sound so stupid but,
> > hey...too much information f**ks me up :-) The bottom paint that's on
my
> > boat now is sort of chalky and rubs off on your hand, or anything else,
> wet
> > or dry. This is called "ablative", right? Again, sorry to be stupid.
> I'm
> > up here in MN in fresh, cool water and whatever this is on my boat seems
> to
> > work pretty well keeping off the slime. So I was thinking about just
> giving
> > 'er a light sand and laying on a couple coats of the same paint. No
> primer,
> > no fuss, no muss. Just paint it. Would it be so wrong? But what
exactly
> > is the name (brand) of this kind of paint? Can I just ask for Interlux
> > ablative at WM or do I really have to do all those chemistry tests on
the
> > existing paint to determine exactly the shoe size of the original
painter,
> > etc.? I'm OK with cutting some corners--I just want a
> > pretty-decent-do-it-yourself job done the easy way.
> >
> > The PS pick is Interlux Micron Optima two-part ablative. How many coats
> per
> > gallon? Comments anyone?
> >
> >
> > Slim
> > S/V Fandango
> >
> > On 4/1/03 10:41 PM, "anima" <anima13@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Wally, a big problem here as well!
> > > Anne
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Wally Buck" <tnrhodey@hotmail.com>
> > > To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:10 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand up?
> > >
> > >
> > >> Rummy,
> > >>
> > >> Those pesky Zebra Mussels are spreading beyond the Great Lakes.
> Although
> > > not
> > >> a big problem yet on the TN River, they are starting to show up. We
get
> > >> quite a bit of boat traffic from people who cruise from the Great
Lakes
> > > and
> > >> the mussels travel down with them.
> > >>
> > >> It would be nice if Zebra Mussels tasted good. It never seems to work
> out
> > >> that way though.
> > >>
> > >> Wally
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> From: "John Tonjes" <johntonjes@earthlink.net>
> > >>> Reply-To: johntonjes@earthlink.net,The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > >>> <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>> Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:44:24 -0500
> > >>>
> > >>> MJM,
> > >>> It depends where the fresh water is located. Our lake, Lake Hartwell
> in
> > >>> South Carolina, is notorious for vigorous growth. It requires a very
> > > strong
> > >>> anti-fouling paint such as the Interlux Micron Extra with Biolux.
> Zebra
> > >>> Mussels are pretty much contained to the Great Lakes from what I
> > >>> understand.
> > >>> Most boats when pulled after spending only a few weeks in the water
> > > without
> > >>> any protection have acquired the notorious Hartwell stripe (aka:
> slime).
> > >>> It's not hard to clean when you first pull the boat, just don't let
it
> > > sit
> > >>> around and dry on the hull. It's so bad, I'm contemplating putting
> > >>> anti-fouling on the bottom of my run about.
> > >>> When I pulled Rum Runner from the lake for the bottom work, there
was
> a
> > >>> good 1/2 inch of growth on the bottom. I wonder if that was slowing
me
> > > down
> > >>> any?
> > >>>
> > >>> Rummy
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> [Original Message]
> > >>>> From: Michael Meltzer <mjm@michaelmeltzer.com>
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Date: 4/1/2003 4:33:02 PM
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
> up?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> freah water does not a problem with hard growth, just zebra musles,
> > > the
> > >>> grasses and slime are more of the a problem, most of the
> > >>>> hight rated paints will work, the thought problem are salt/brackish
> > >>> water. it is a hard paint, the "sr" version is a big plus in
> > >>>> this case, alittle overkill for freash water.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> MJM
> > >>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>> From: "Steve Alm" <salm@mn.rr.com>
> > >>>> To: "Rhodes" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 4:13 PM
> > >>>> Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
> up?
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> Is the Petit Trinidad an ablative? Is there a different bottom
> > > paint
> > >>> for
> > >>>>> salt/fresh water?
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> On 4/1/03 11:57 AM, "Michael Meltzer" <mjm@michaelmeltzer.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> Cut Stan a break, do you really think he keeps track of the
bottom
> > >>> paint on
> > >>>>>> every boat.
> > >>>>>> I am sure him like other just look at the paint on the boat for
> > > the
> > >>> answer.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> the issues:
> > >>>>>> Teflon can only go over Teflon, Stan does not use it unless
> > > someone
> > >>> sent him
> > >>>>>> some.
> > >>>>>> High copper hard epoxy, his favorite, if in good shape anything
> > > can
> > >>> go over.
> > >>>>>> adbaitve, only abative can go over, it washs off(hint, wet a
area,
> > >>> good, then
> > >>>>>> try a scrubber sponge, does it come off like a bar of
> > >>>>>> soap).
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> This is my second time trying to help, you never answered the
> > >>> questions from
> > >>>>>> last time how it being used..........
> > >>>>>> BTW Awlgrip is know for thier top side paint, not thier bottom
> > > pain.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> MJM
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
> > >>>>>> From: "Ken Wise" <skipperken@excite.com>
> > >>>>>> To: <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 12:34 PM
> > >>>>>> Subject: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Stan, will the real paint stand
up?
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Stan, we need to reapply an anti-fouling paint to the bottom of
> > >>> Awaken, but
> > >>>>>>> want to know what paint you used to make certain what
> > >>>>>> we choose is compatable. I used the faq site and got an answer of
> > >>> Awlgrip. Gil
> > >>>>>> said you used Petit Trinidad on his boat. Only you
> > >>>>>> know what is on my boat, please clear this up. Ken
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> Ken Wise
> > >>>>>>> Awaken
> > >>>>>>> Trail Creek Marina
> > >>>>>>> Michigan City, IN
> > >>>>>>>
> > >>>>>>> _______________________________________________
> > >>>>>>> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> > >>>>>>> The most personalized portal on the Web!
> > >>>>>>> _________________________________________________
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> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> _________________________________________________
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> > >>>>> _________________________________________________
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> > >>
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