[Rhodes22-list] Bilge Pump Well

[Ware, Joseph W.]

Roger, as always, thanks.  I don't know if I have the #&$$@ to mill out the
hull, so we'll see if I get this far.  If not, it's not because I don't have
enough information to do it.

Thanks again,

Joe
S/V Whisper

-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Pihlaja [mailto:cen09402 at centurytel.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 11:20 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge Pump Well


Joe,

Whew!  You have a good memory.  Yes, several years ago, I wrote up the bilge
pump installation fairly completely, but I don't have that old article
anymore.  Have you checked the Sailnet archives &/or the FAQ website?  No, I
don't have any pictures of my installation.

I used rotary rasps & various shapes of milling cutters in a Dremel Multi
Tool to route out the depression.  I used the Dremel Multi Tool because it's
so much easier to control & maneuver into odd positions than a larger
machine.  The new bilge depression is oval shaped about 3" wide X 12" long X
1" deep.  The 12' dimension is oriented longitudinally on the bilge
centerline.  I used thickened epoxy to seal the new bilge & fair out the
edges.

The bilge pump I used is a Rule M/N: 25D rated @ 500 gph.  I like the Rule
bilge pumps because they have a built-in snap on/off strainer base.  I used
a Rule M/N: 40 combination float switch + protective strainer to
automatically control the pump.  I used a Rule M/N: 41 fused panel switch.
The M/N 41 switch has a built in fuse, indicator light, & a (Momentary
Contact Manual ON-OFF-AUTO) 3-position switch.  The MC Manual ON feature is
nice because it forces you to stay at the switch when operating in manual,
thus precluding you from forgetting about it & running the pump dry &
running down the battery.

Mount the float switch above the pump at the level of the old bilge in order
to prevent the pump from rapidly cycling on/ff repeatedly.  Note that this
will tend to leave the new bilge depression with a little water in it &
little bit more will siphon back thru the pump from the outlet plumbing
after the pump shuts down.  To get the bilge really dry, just before I leave
the boat for the day, I like to run the pump in manual until it runs dry.
The sound of the pump changes noticeably when it starts sucking air, so it's
easy to tell when the bilge is pumped.

I used #14 wire to power the pump.  #16 wire would have been big enough to
handle the 1.9 amp load, but I happened to have #14 wire on hand.  I used
Ancor waterproof butt connectors with heat shrink tubing over the
connectors.

I used smooth bore 3/4" TYGON tubing for the outlet plumbing.  My discharge
thru hull is the same one used by the galley sink on the starboard side.
When the boat is level, this thru hull is above the water line.  To prevent
back siphoning into the bilge from the thru hull when the boat is heeled
over on port tack, I ran the TYGON tubing in a loop from the pump up the
mast compression post to the cabin ceiling & then back down to the thru
hull.  I have a separate 3/4" full bore 1/4 turn ball valve at the tee into
the thru hull in order to be able to isolate the bilge pump plumbing from
the thru hull.

Originally, I had a check valve in the discharge plumbing.  Over the years,
this check valve has proven to be fairly troublesome & of limited utility.
A couple of years ago, I removed it from my system.  As long as you install
the anti-siphoning loop, I would recommend not using a check valve.

Please note that this bilge pump is only sized to handle incidental water
that finds its way into the bilge.  Any sort of below-the-waterline leak or
damage would quickly overwhelm the little pump's capacity.

Good luck, Joe!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ware, Joseph W." <joseph_ware at merck.com>
To: "List Rhodes (E-mail)" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 9:44 AM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge Pump Well


> Roger, a while back, you wrote about routing out a well in the bilge for
> your pump.  Do you have that written up in your usual informative fashion
> anywhere?  I'm looking at replacing my old pump and am considering your
> idea.
>
> Specifically, what tools did you use to due out the hole?  What depth?  I
> assume you had to re-fiberglass the hole.  Any other tips?
>
> Joe
> S/V Whisper
>
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