[Rhodes22-list] Slim's Trailer

Thu Aug 14 17:51:30 EDT 2003

Bill,

What are the correct sizes for the jack stands?

Slim

On 8/12/03 5:46 PM, "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com> wrote:

> Slim,
> 
> I'm with Steve on this one.  Neither the pictures nor the spec.s you sent look
> right.  The bunks appear to be too far forward on the trailer.  You might find
> you have to make a lot of changes that don't solve the problem.
> 
> Why not just do what Bill Berner did?  Find a newbie and sell him your lemon?
> Then get a good one for yourself.  (Joke, joke -- nobody who has seen Bill
> Berner's comments for a couple of years really thinks he did that.)
> 
> Meanwhile, I've fooled around with jack stands for the past couple of years.
> Here's how you do it: (from an earlier posting)
> 
> I use the jack stand method, and it works like a charm.  It's safe, and
> easy.
> 
> I use three jack stands:  two with flat pads, one V shaped.
> 
> The screws on the jack stands will lift the boat.
> 
> Try to get stands with tubes that are open on the bottom.  Then, if you want
> to be truly lazy, get three hydraulic jacks.  Place the jacks under the
> posts attached to the pads.  Raise or lower the boat to suit.  (Obviously,
> you could do this with a single jack, but they only cost about $20.00
> apiece, they're useful in other applications, and placing a jack under each
> post makes the process ridiculously simple.)
> 
> Move the position of the handle on the screw of the jack stand every time
> you move the post.  This will ensure the jack stand remains stable.  It also
> allows you to reset the hydraulic jack.
> 
> Put cinder blocks, bricks, and pieces of wood snugly under the keel after
> each lift.
> 
> Around here, boats much larger than ours are left on three jack stands,
> sitting on their keels, for half the year.  Personally, I'm much more
> comfortable once my boat is safely back on its trailer, but, at the same
> time, it's nice to know you can safely work under it whenever you need to.
> 
> This jack stand method can also be used to position the boat exactly where
> you want it for trailering.
> 
> 
> Bill Effros
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Alm 
> To: Rhodes 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2003 5:05 PM
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Slim's Trailer
> 
> 
> Todd,
> 
> Yeah, it looks like my axle should go back about six inches.  That was
> Stan's first reaction too.  I might go seven just to be sure.  If seven's
> too much, I'd have no problem loading the boat farther aft!!!  And thanks
> for the advice about the tires. I've often thought I had the wrong ones.
> 
> I can probably find a shop around here that will move the axle.  This is the
> Land of Ten Thousand Lakes and about ten million boats, so there's gotta be
> someone.  In the mean time, I might consider this option:  What if I bought
> a set of jack stands?  How hard would it be to set up the jacks at the ramp
> and just crank her up a couple inches and slide the trailer under it where
> ever I want it?  Sure, it would add a few minutes to the whole procedure,
> but it seems like it would solve the problem perfectly.  I'd like to have a
> set of jacks anyway to help with the bottom painting jobs.
> 
> Yes, that's the GB hoist you saw on the bow.  I'll try to take some pix for
> you the next time I'm out there.
> 
> Slim 
> 
> On 8/11/03 8:51 PM, "Todd Tavares" <sprocket80 at mail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Slim,
>> 
>>   I am judging by the measurements, that you have the same trailer as Lloyd
>> Crowther (which I took my original measurements from) and your axle needs to
>> be about six inches back farther?
>> 
>>  I saw how they welded the spring-eye brackets to the frame.  I guess your
>> fenders are welded on too huh?
>> 
>> I wonder why Stan has never chimed in and said definitely where the axles are
>> supposed to be, like they are on the new trailers.  The bad part is that new
>> brackets are about $3 a piece.  Are there any reputable welding or machine
>> shops in your area?  and would you want to move the axle?
>> 
>>  I was also wondering about the tires you have on the trailer.  The trailer
>> guy I spoke with at EZ-Loader Trailers said that although passenger car
>> radial
>> tires ("P" prefix, like you have) may carry the load, the sidewalls flex too
>> much for use on trailers and will cause excessive sway at speed.  He warned
>> me
>> to use only tires with a "ST" prefix with a load rating of "C" or "D".  I got
>> the ST 9 ply belted tires. If you lived close, I'd give you my tires to test
>> this theory, but %-(.  Read some of the FAQ's.  Rummy has some knowledge of
>> trailer tires I think.
>> 
>>  On another note.....did I see a GB mast raising crane on your foredeck in
>> these pics?  If it is,  could you take and send me some close up pics of the
>> block mounted on the cabin top and brackets and the bow rail holder?
>> 
>> Todd
>> 
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Steve Alm <salm at mn.rr.com>
>> Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 23:03:05 -0500
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Slim's Problem Trailer
>> 
>>> Fandango is a 1990, so I assume the trailer is the same year.  No
>>> breaks, single axle Trailmaster.
>>> I couldn't find a GVW stamped anywhere, but on the coupler it says:
>>> Coupler Capacity 3500 lbs. MGTW -- 300 lbs. Tongue Wt.
>>> The tires are P235/75 R15 M/S  Max load 2028.  5 lugs.
>>> Axle tube  2 1/4" OD.  Assembly welded--not bolted
>>> Distance from center of axle to center of winch post  153"
>>> Distance from center of axle to rear of cross member  40"  (Jim's
>>> trailer is 46")
>>> Distance from rear of cross member to rear of winch post  106"  (Jim's
>>> is 104 1/8")
>>> With my receiver draw bar in the high position, the bottom of the
>>> tongue is 17 1/2" from the ground.
>>> If I put it in the lower position, I don't have enough room to swing
>>> down the jack.
>>> Adjustable bow-stop arm
>>> 
>>> I slide the adjustable bow-stop arm all the way forward on launch and
>>> retrieval, then set it back to almost touching the bow for traveling.
>>> 
>>> In the attached photos, you can see my tie-downs, both fore and aft.
>>> Not all of you use tie-downs.  ?????
>>> 
>>> Slim
>>> S/V Fandango
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Name: PA15401239901.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 246765 bytes Desc: not
>>> available
>>> Url: 
>>> 
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200308/11/PA1540123990
>>> 1
>>> .jpg
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Trailer-1
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Name: PA15401239904.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 221335 bytes Desc: not
>>> available
>>> Url: 
>>> 
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200308/11/PA1540123990
>>> 4
>>> .jpg
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Trailer-4
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Name: PA15401239903.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 159508 bytes Desc: not
>>> available
>>> Url: 
>>> 
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200308/11/PA1540123990
>>> 3
>>> .jpg
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> trailer-6
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Name: PA15401239905.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 178547 bytes Desc: not
>>> available
>>> Url: 
>>> 
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attch/200308/11/PA1540123990
>>> 5
>>> .jpg
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Trailer-7
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> 
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> 
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