[Rhodes22-list] Transom thru hull drains

[Robert Dilk]

Thanks
Bob

>>> flybrad@yahoo.com 01/20/03 10:17AM >>>
Joe,

My boat is an 82' model.  I don't know if the plastic
thru-the-hull fittings were from GBI or a addition.  I
hate to give advice on something I haven't seen, BUT,
it should be a simple matter of using a wood bit that
is the same size as the thru-the-hull hole you have
and drilling inward from outside the transom. If you
can't cut the nipple off inside the lazaret and polish
or sand the inside of the transom smooth (for a tight
seal of the thru-the-hull fitting retainer nut) you
may have to drill with a slightly oversize bit and go
with the next larger fitting. If you goon something up
you can always go oversize by 1/8". There is a limit
to how many times you can go oversize though, just
look at Hunters and Catalinas, they have a huge hole
in the transom you can walk through! The key to
drilling anything is to go slow, don't generate too
much heat, and by all means keep the drill bit aligned
with the hole.  Good luck.

Brad
--- "Ware, Joseph W." <joseph_ware@merck.com> wrote:
> You may not have removable through-hulls.  My 1986
> has nipples fiberglassed
> to the transom.  Unfortunately, they are tapered and
> the hose / clamps come
> off easily.  I'm thinking about drilling out the
> glassed in pieces and
> installing through-hulls.
> 
> Joe
> s/v Whisper
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Dilk [mailto:Robert.Dilk@trw.com] 
> Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 9:45 AM
> To: rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org 
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Transom thru hull
> drains
> 
> 
> Thanks for the details.
> 
> The previous owner used garden hose with hose clamps
> to the barbs, is that
> what you used?
> 
> Bob
> 
> >>> flybrad@yahoo.com 01/20/03 09:17AM >>>
> Bob, 
> 
> I replaced both transom thru-the-hull drains as well
> as the seat drains because they were brittle.  One
> had
> already cracked and filled the lazaret with
> rainwater
> twice.  I chose to go 1/8" oversize with 1 and 1/8
> drains but the original size would be fine.  Try and
> cut as much sealant away from both sides as possible
> with a razor.  You may get lucky and find the
> sealant
> isn't holding much anyway.  Remove the nut from the
> backside of the drain (inside the lazaret).  I gave
> it
> some gentle persuation with a hammer from inside the
> lazaret but if you do it the way a professional
> would
> you should use a bolt and gently apply pressure from
> outside against blocks placed against the transom. 
> Frankly the hammer works quite well. I don't know
> the
> exact thickness but its thick, you won't damage the
> boat. The hole should be smooth.  If it isn't you
> need
> to make a repair or go oversize.  Replace with a
> good
> polyurethane caulk. Make sure you get a good bead
> around both sides and squeeze out the excess, then
> wipe away.  The port drain (if your boat is like
> mine)
> will have to be trimmed to fit next to the motor
> mount.  A grinder, file, or good knife with some
> patience will do the trick.  Now is a good time to
> replace the drain hose as well.  They get brittle as
> well and build up resistance internally as well as
> kink if the bend radius is too great.  Home Depot or
> Lowes both have hose if your marine supply doesn't. 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> Brad Haslett
> --- Robert Dilk <Robert.Dilk@trw.com> wrote:
> > I broke off the plastic inside stem on one of my
> > transom thru-hulls that drains the seat drain.
> > (1975) Too much junk in the Lazaret.
> > 
> > Any recommendations on replacements?
> > How thick is the transom?
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > Bob
> > Knot Necessary
> > 
> > _________________________________________________
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> 
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