[Rhodes22-list] What I did on my summer vacation
Wally Buck
tnrhodey at hotmail.com
Sun Jul 13 09:37:41 EDT 2003
Starbucks need to get with the program! I will take a Grande Northern Lights
please . :-)
Wally
>From: Steve Alm <salm at mn.rr.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: Rhodes <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] What I did on my summer vacation
>Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 14:37:49 -0500
>
>Wally,
>
>The umm...coffee was great. Many different blends and flavors to choose
>from. Oh, so civilized. 8-)
>
>Slim
>
>On 7/11/03 7:35 AM, "Wally Buck" <tnrhodey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Wow sounds like a great trip, thanks for taking the time to post.
> >
> > So how was the coffee in Amsterdam ......???
> >
> > Wally
> >
> >
> >> From: Steve Alm <salm at mn.rr.com>
> >> Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> To: Rhodes <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] What I did on my summer vacation
> >> Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 12:54:27 -0500
> >>
> >> Hi everybody.
> >>
> >> We just got back from Europe and here's how it went.
> >> Trip overview:
> >> 3 days in Amsterdam: 3 days in Paris; 6 days in Lisbon; 2 days in
>Tavira
> >> (southern Portugal); 3 days in Seville, Spain; 2 days in Ericeira,
>Port.
> >>
> >> Details:
> >> In Amsterdam, we immediately took to the streets and started just
>walking
> >> around, enjoying the sights--and what great sights they were. The
>canals
> >> are loaded with every kind of boat you can imagine. Even tall-masted
> >> sailboats that were stranded between two low bridges. Many were
>old-wordly
> >> looking lap strake vessels with big, fat, high bows. We took a boat
>tour
> >> around the canals and went to the house boat museum where we saw
>everything
> >> from old to new, inhabited and abandoned. The people that still live
>on
> >> their boats often sit out on their canal side decks and greet you as
>you
> >> boat by. People were very friendly and inviting and most spoke
>English.
> >>
> >> Our favorite part of the city is an area called Leidesplein, with very
> >> narrow cobblestone streets lined with shops, restaurants, night clubs
>and
> >> of
> >> course the famous ½coffee houses.
We ate most of our meals at
>sidewalk
> >> cafes. They arrange the seating so everyone faces the street. Its
>like
> >> sitting and watching a movie.
> >>
> >> We visited the Rembrandt Museum where we saw, among others, the
>wonderful
> >> ½Night Watch.
Ive only seen pictures before and they hardly do
>justice
> >> to
> >> the real thing. We also went to the van Gogh museum and ditto to that.
> >> Mary Ann is something of a painting historian so it was nice to have my
>own
> >> personal docent. I learned a lot as we both gazed in amazement at
>these
> >> extraordinary works.
> >>
> >> And speaking of gazing in amazement, we also toured the red light
>district
> >> and saw the hookers in their little street-side windows in various
>states
> >> of
> >> undress, waiting for customers. One simply walks up to the window,
>slips
> >> in
> >> a 50 euro note and gets invited in for about fifteen minutes. Not very
> >> romantic but, well...enough said.
> >>
> >> They say there are more bicycles in Amsterdam than people. They have
> >> parking ramps for bikes instead of cars. There are no ramps for cars.
> >> Even
> >> older men and women all dressed up for work in coats and ties or even
>high
> >> heels are riding around on bikes. The public transportation is
>incredible.
> >> trains, trams, metros, busses, you name it. Its very easy to get
>around.
> >> Nonetheless, we got around mostly on foot and by the third day we had
> >> blisters, shin splints, aches and pains galore! We bought foot powder
>to
> >> soak our feet at night and I broke down and bought a funky, old walkin
> >> stick. More about my cane later.
> >>
> >> We said goodbye to the land of tulips and took the high speed Thalys
>train
> >> to Paris. We arrived at the train station and took the metro from
>there to
> >> the city center near our hotel in the Latin Quarter. Upon emerging
>from
> >> the
> >> underground, my first glimpse was Nortre Damme! Whew! We checked in
>and
> >> hit the streets. Mary Ann lived in Paris years ago, so she knew her
>way
> >> around and speaks French. Dining was the first priority so we found a
>cute
> >> sidewalk cafe and indulged.
> >>
> >> Napoleon mandated that all buildings be the same height, so all you see
>are
> >> six story (the attic is actually 7, but thats typically reserved for
>the
> >> servants) structures with all that frilly French design. Again we, the
> >> intrepid walkers, wondered around the narrow streets, stopping for
>snacks
> >> and wine whenever our feet got too tired to go on. These rest stops
>seemed
> >> to get more and more frequent.
> >>
> >> We went to the modern Pompidoa museum where they had paintings by Dali,
> >> Picasso, others. At the Louvre, there was a special Leonardo deVinci
> >> exhibit that was utterly wonderful. deVinci only painted 30 something
> >> paintings, but he filled up pages and pages of little technical
>drawings of
> >> everything from human anatomy to flying machines. Absolutely
>fascinating.
> >> We decided not to stand in the long line to see the Mona Lisa which is
>in
> >> its own room. What bothered me about the Louvre is that the labels
>next to
> >> the artwork are only in French. Youd think that theyd have several
> >> languages like they do everywhere else, but no. Nortre Damme was
>perhaps
> >> the highlight for me. I had no idea that the place is actually still
>open
> >> and free to all. Not only do they still give Mass there (with the
> >> Cardinal,
> >> no less, presiding) but they still play the pipe organ which we got to
> >> hear.
> >> I was profoundly astonished. It blows my mind to think that before it
>was
> >> built in 1133, some architect had to put pen to paper and say, ½I think
>we
> >> should build it this way.
and that the people responsible for
>approving it
> >> said, Yeah, that looks reasonable. Go ahead!
> >>
> >> Paris is extremely expensive so we tried to shop at grocery stores and
> >> bring
> >> food back to the hotel whenever practical-- baguettes, cheese,
>sausages
> >> and
> >> wine, but it was hard not to stop at the creperies and various other
> >> sidewalk eateries.
> >>
> >> I know youre probably curious how we were treated by the French. More
>on
> >> that later--lets go to Lisbon. Our friend, Eddy Goltz, has been a
> >> professional musician there for 20 years. He stays with us once a year
> >> when
> >> he comes home to see his family so it was cool to do the reverse.
>Lisbon
> >> is
> >> a beautiful and very old city. Founded by the Phonecians thousands of
> >> years
> >> B.C. and subsequently inhabited by Celts, Romans, Moors, Safardic Jews
>and
> >> Portuguese. The antiquity of the place is hard to wrap your mind
>around
> >> when you come from a neighborhood that was built in the 1930s. One of
>the
> >> best natural ports in Europe, Lisbon is a bustling shipping and
> >> boating/sailing haven. We saw everything from full rigged tall ships
>to
> >> kayaks; ocean going container ships to PWCs. There are aquaducts, a
> >> middle
> >> ages castle, monuments and cathedrals abound, and of course, sidewalk
> >> cafes.
> >> We took a double decker bus tour where we got to see the sights and get
> >> ourselves oriented to the city. There are many lovely beaches along
>the
> >> coast but the Atlantic is pretty cold so we only waded a bit which felt
> >> great on our sore feet.
> >>
> >> I got to play three gigs in Lisbon. The first was a jazz big band that
> >> played for the Lisboa Escola de Danza (School of Dance). They were
>doing a
> >> show featuring various selections from American musicals ranging from
> >> Cabaret to Chicago. The band was pretty good but the dancers were
> >> fantastic. The other two gigs were in nightclubs. One was a
>trio--myself
> >> and two other Portuguese dudes who spoke little English and didnt know
>my
> >> arrangements very well but we managed to speak the international
>language
> >> pretty well. The last gig was a quintet with Eddy and Mary Ann on the
>4th
> >> of July and us Yanks rocked em good. Tons of fun!
> >>
> >> We left Lisbon to go to the southern Portuguese area called the
>Algarve,
> >> known for its quaint villages and beaches. After quite a mixup in the
> >> bus/train ride, we finally got to Tavira at about 11 at night. They
> >> happened to be celebrating San Pedro that weekend so the town was all
> >> dressed up and decorated with flowers. The whole town was out dancing
>in
> >> the streets to the various bands, eating sardines and snails and
>drinking
> >> beer. It was really very sweet. We took the water taxis to the
>beaches
> >> which were beautiful indeed but too windy to enjoy for long so it was
>back
> >> to the sidewalk cafes for more beer.
> >>
> >> We took the bus to Seville in Spain. Wow, what a fantastic city--my
> >> favorite of the trip. Everything is clean and well kept. We stumbled
> >> around a little and found a hotel, checked in and then, you guessed it,
>hit
> >> the streets on foot. What a beautiful and enchanting city!!! It
>wasnt
> >> long before we happened along a group of people at a bar who had
>spilled
> >> into the street, all singing in harmony, dancing and playing
> >> guitars--Flamenco Sevillana! It was just wonderful. Ive seen
>Flamenco
> >> performances in the States, but like pictures of great art, its a
>whole
> >> new
> >> experience when youre there where Flamenco was born. We went to
>several
> >> other Flamenco shows too and they were all fabulous.
> >>
> >> We found the double decker bus tour here as well and the sights were
> >> spectacular. The Moorish Alcazar palace from the 900s, the Cathedral
>of
> >> San Cristobal (where Christopher Columbus is buried)--almost as
>impressive
> >> as Nortre Damme, fortresses, a whole modern area built for the world
>expo
> >> in 1992 to celebrate 500 years after Columbus discovered America, and
>yep,
> >> sidewalk cafes. We ate lots of tapas and gaspacho to die for. The
>sights,
> >> sounds, smells, and tastes of Seville are truly a delight for the
>senses.
> >> I
> >> cant wait for my next visit.
> >>
> >> We bussed back to the Lisbon area and spent our last two nights with
>two
> >> newly acquired friends Stephen and Vanessa who are transplanted from
> >> Belfast
> >> and London. They live in the little fishing village of Ericeira, out
>on
> >> the
> >> coast northwest of Lisbon. Very charming and down scale. Crab dinners
>and
> >> lots of Irish whiskey. It was nice to cap the trip off with a couple
>of
> >> relaxing days on the ocean front.
> >>
> >> People and attitudes:
> >> There is no shortage of anti-American sentiment in Europe. Virtually
>every
> >> person we spoke to felt the same about Bush. Fortunately however, they
> >> were
> >> able to distinguish between American foreign policy and us two
>travelers
> >> and
> >> the image of me in my Panama hat and cane gave most the impression I
>was a
> >> Brit or a German--fine with me. Nobody gave us a hard time about it
> >> although they all wanted to talk politics. Most agreed that if there
>had
> >> to
> >> be just one major super power in the world, better the US than Russia,
> >> China, Japan, or any one else. In Amsterdam, the folks were very
>friendly
> >> and affable. In Paris, they were just being Parisians--they hate
>anything
> >> thats not French and theyre pretty snobby about it. But I didnt get
>the
> >> feeling they were singling out America as the center of their hatred
>for
> >> things not French. In fact President Chirac just gave an address
>urging
> >> people to smile and be nice to Americans because theyre losing too
>much
> >> money in tourism. Americans are staying away from France in droves.
>The
> >> Portuguese people, on the other hand, make the French seem like happy
> >> little
> >> school girls. Theyre truly horrid people, especially the Lisboans.
> >> Portugal is the most backward country of western Europe and it gives
>them
> >> an
> >> inferiority complex. They have few natural resources in their little
> >> country and they view themselves as have-nots. They take every
>opportunity
> >> to be indignant and sour. Theyre not outwardly rude, but if you go
>into a
> >> restaurant, the waiter will look at you as if to say, ½What are you
>doing
> >> here? Cant you see Im busy being miserable?
The Spanish were just
>the
> >> opposite. Theyre happy and glorious. We were treated like the king
>and
> >> queen. I just cant say enough about Seville.
> >>
> >> I took about a hundred and fifty pictures with my trusty 35 mm. After
>much
> >> debate, we decided against a digital camera so we can put the photos in
>an
> >> album and pass it around, rather than trying to get everyone to gather
> >> around the computer. Im having them put on a disk too but I dont
>have a
> >> web site or anything to post them on.
> >>
> >> So there you have it. It was a great trip with many new memories and
> >> friends........and Im thrilled to be home!
> >>
> >> Slim
> >> S/V Fandango
> >>
> >> __________________________________________________
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> >
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