[Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats

[Roger Pihlaja]

Rummy,

I think GBI fastens those cleats to the cabin roof with a SS threaded metal
insert, which is cast into the fiberglass during construction.  This would
not be an easy thing to duplicate at home after the boat is built.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Tonjes" <johntonjes at earthlink.net>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats


> Roger,
> I have an 88 model which has two cleats on the deck, one for the genoa
> furling line and another for the topping lift. Neither are thru bolted. I
> suspect they are drilled and tapped and threaded into the fiberglass.
> Neither one has a great amount of pressure and I'm sure they were factory
> installations.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Ronald Lipton <lipton at sprynet.com>
> > To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Date: 7/27/2003 3:41:02 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats
> >
> > Roger,
> >
> >   Great description, as usual.  Just what I need.  I was concerned about
> > drilling  through the liner. The use of fender washers
> > and barrel nuts should make for a nice installation.
> >
> > Ron
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 6:35 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats
> >
> >
> > > Ron,
> > >
> > > The cabin roof is about 1-1/2" thick in that area, certainly thick
> enough
> > &
> > > plywood cored.  But, how were you planning to attach the cleat if not
by
> > > thru-bolting - wood screws?  The roller furling control line can be
> fairly
> > > heavily loaded.  It is considered bad engineering practice to do
> anything
> > > but thru bolt heavily loaded deck fittings.
> > >
> > > Before you do anything, please take a look at the following reference:
> > >
> > > "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance, With WEST System Epoxy",
Revised
> > > Edition, Published By Gougeon Brother Inc., PO Box X908, Bay City, MI
> > 48707,
> > > 989-684-1374, Cat No: 002-550, Sep., 1988, pages 46 - 50
> > >
> > > The most recent edition of this pamphlet is available at West Marine
> > stores
> > > or just about any other marine chandlery that sells WEST System epoxy
> > > products.  Or, look in the 2003 West Marine Master Catalog on page
388.
> > >
> > > Basically, you will drill out the mounting holes oversize, tape over
the
> > > holes thru the cabin liner, & backfill the holes with epoxy using a
> > > hypodermic syringe.  Then, you will redrill the mounting holes thru
the
> > > hardened epoxy.  This will completely seal the plywood core to prevent
> > > moisture intrusion in the future & provide a stable, crushproof region
> > thru
> > > the plywood core that will not be deformed when the cam cleat is
loaded.
> > >
> > > Please allow me to introduce you to a wonderful piece of thru-bolting
> > > hardware called the "barrel nut".  Look in the 2003 West Marine Master
> > > Catalog on page 512.  You didn't say if the particular cam cleat you
> were
> > > going to use required #10 - 24UNC or 1/4" - 20UNC screws; but, there
are
> > > barrel nuts listed to fit either size.  You can either fabricate your
> own
> > > backing plate from 12 gage SS plate or you can use SS fender washers
for
> > > backing plates.  On page 512 in the 2003 West Marine Master Catalog,
> use a
> > > 1" OD X 1/4" ID SS fender washer with the #10 barrel nut & a 1-1/2" OD
X
> > > 5/16" ID SS fender washer with the 1/4" barrel nut.  You will have to
> trim
> > > the lengths of the SS mounting screws to fit the barrel nuts & the
> > thickness
> > > of the cabin roof under your new cam cleat.  The finished installation
> > will
> > > only show the SS backing plate or SS fender washers & the polished
> > Phillips
> > > screwheads of the barrel nuts.  It won't be a head banger, will be
very
> > > strong, & yet readily accessible if you ever need to take it apart.
> > >
> > > Please don't use wood screws.  Good luck!
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ronald Lipton" <lipton at sprynet.com>
> > > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 7:00 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats
> > >
> > >
> > > > This must have confused some folks.  I ment the furling line, not
the
> > > > sheets.  Sorry.  I was just wondering if the cabintop fiberglass is
> > thick
> > > > enough to support the cleat or if some sort of backing plate is
> needed.
> > > >
> > > > Ron
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Ronald Lipton" <lipton at sprynet.com>
> > > > To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > > Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 10:38 PM
> > > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa Cleats
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > The Genoa sheets on my '89 have an annoying habit of slipping
though
> > > > > the jam cleats, unfurling  the genoa.  I would like to
> > > > > add cam cleats to the cabintop.  Has anyone done this? What is
> > > > > the proper procedure? Is the fiberglass thick enough to support
> > > > > the cleats with no backing?  Any advice would be appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Ron Lipton
> > > > > Empress of Blandings
> > > > > Michigan City, In
> > > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
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> > >
> > >
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>
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