[Rhodes22-list] Leaks

[Peter Thorn]

Hello Saroj (and other listies)

This is the first time I have actually spoken, but have been listening for a
while.  Perhaps someday there's an R22 in my future.  My father owned a 1976
Continental - probably the best boat he ever owned - purchased at Barnegat
May, NJ and sailed a lot at Lake Monroe, Indianapolis, IN in the early 80's.
Anyway, I have just reconditioned a 1982 Starwind 19, designed by Jim
Taylor.  It's a nice boat, but not quite an R22.

I offer this bit for what it's worth.  The Starwind had some through-hulls,
many of which I removed and glassed over, because a few of them failed.  One
in particular was for the centerboard pennant  (just the the Rhodes has).
This is a true through-hull fitting, but it goes from the cockpit floor and
another hull liner of fiberglass and leads to the inside and back of
keel/centerboard.  A leak here  (as anywhere) could sink the boat.   Does
your bad fitting pass through two layers of fiberglass?  If so, that could
be the problem.  The action of  hull flexing, the two fiberglass layers
moving against each other, can snap those plastic fittings.  I reccommend
replacing with solid brass fittings, which don't easily crack.  West Marine.
Cost more -- worth it.

B/T/W, please use GE 101 polysulfide - stays pliable much longer.  good
stuff.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Saroj" <saroj at pathfind.net>
To: "R22 list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 10:01 AM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Leaks


I just got back from the boat and saw that the thru hull from the sink drain
is leaking.  I cut off the shabby end of the hose and reclamped it only to
find that it is leaking right at the hull where the thru-hull fitting goes
thru.  Is the remedy for this to remove the thru-hull (it is above the
waterline); lay down a bedding/caulking substance and then reinstall the
thru-hull fitting?  Then does it need to be caulked?  Is this something I
can reasonably tackly on my own?  What products are best to use?

Thanks,
SarojFrom saroj at pathfind.net  Fri Jun  6 10:03:35 2003
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From: "Saroj" <saroj at pathfind.net>
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Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 10:03:10 -0400
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Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Water in the bilge
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I still have an inch or two of water in the bilge.  It is not salty so I
suspect it is still seaping out of the rigid foam which got totally
saturated 2 months ago from a collection of rain water.  Is that realistic
or should I look for another source?

SarojFrom mark at kaynor.org  Fri Jun  6 11:05:21 2003
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From: "Mark Kaynor" <mark at kaynor.org>
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Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin hatch lock workaround
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 11:04:45 -0400
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Rummy,

I almost said that in my initial post, too. Even so, it's still way more
secure than it used to be. At least a thief will have to stand there exposed
to view in the marina w/ a screwdriver removing screws before they can get
in..

Mark


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Tonjes" <johntonjes at earthlink.net>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 8:59 PM
Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin hatch lock workaround


> Mark,
> Now thats what I call secure. A phillips screwdriver to remove the three
> screws and anybody can get in. :)
>
> Rummy......yes I've had to do it because I locked the keys in the cabin.
:)
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Mark Kaynor <mark at kaynor.org>
> > To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Date: 6/5/2003 4:21:22 PM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin hatch lock workaround
> >
> > There was some discussion a while ago r.e. the cabin hatch push-lock and
> > the ability to lift the hatch a bit to disengage the lock pin and slide
> > it forward. I meant to post my solution w/ a picture then, but somehow >
> kept forgetting to take the picture and it eventually slipped my mind > >
(go figure).
> >
> > Raven's cover suffered from the same problem until I came up w/ a > >
simple, cheap workaround. I shaped and sanded a small wooden wedge the > >
width of the track and glued it to the teak slide. When the cover's > >
closed and locked it reduces the play and prevents the cover from being
> > lifted within the slides. Between that and the "line from the pop-top >
> bar to a clam cleat on the centerboard trunk to hold the pop-top down" > >
fix, we've got a more secure boat than we did last year.
> >
> > I'm attaching a pic I finally took yesterday - and no comments on the >
> condition of the brightwork, please - we have the best intentions for > >
later this summer once the wind isn't so good for sailing <g>.
> >
> > Mark Kaynor
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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