[ham] [Rhodes22-list] Deck thickness

Sun, 9 Mar 2003 17:05:26 -0500

Jay,

Check out the enclosed photo link:

http://www.rhodes22.org/rhodes/pics/Roller_Furling.jpg

Refering to the photo, please note the stainless steel pad eye that the end
of the whisker pole is snapped onto.  That pad eye is the component you want
to use, a Schaefer M/N: 97-42.  Schaefer also offers a matching SS backing
plate for this pad eye, M/N: 97-52.  Look on page 288 of the 2003 Defender
Marine Buyer's Guide in the upper right corner of the page to see these
pieces/parts.  The longitudinal orientation of the pad eye shown in the
photo is preferred over a transverse orientation.

The foredeck is approximately 1-1/4" thick.  It is plywood cored, so you
will have to seal the internal core to prevent crushing and water damage.
Check the following reference for how to do that:

WEST SYSTEM, User Manual & Product Guide, Catalog Number: 002-950, Published
By: Gougeon Brothers, Inc, P.O. Box 908, Bay City, MI  48707-0908,
989-684-7286, www.westsystem.com, pages 8-9

You could simply thru bolt the pad eye & backing plate with four 1/4-20 UNC
X 1-1/2" long flat head SS machine screws.  However, the foredeck was not
really designed to be loaded in that manner.  It would be better engineering
practice to transfer the tension load on the pad eye from the foredeck to
the hull.  There is a fairly easy way to do that using a couple more pad
eyes, a turnbuckle, and the boat's current bow eye.  I purchased two of the
Schaefer M/N: 97-42 pad eyes and used one of them as the backing plate under
the foredeck.  In this case, I made the machine screws about 2" long and
used SS flat washers and lock washers to help spread the load on the backing
plate pad eye.   The bolt-to-bolt spacing on my bow eye is about 3" O.C. and
the bolts are 3/8-16 UNC.  It turns out that a Schaefer M/N: 78-25 pad eye
will fit that hole spacing.  The pad eye's mounting holes will have to be
slightly drilled out to fit the 3/8" bolt OD.  However, given GBI's
well-documanted proclivity for continuous improvement, check the dimensions
of your boat's bow eye before ordering this component.  You may have to
remove a piece of the interior trim to get at this component.  Simply
unscrew the nuts on the backside of the bow eye, remove any fender washers
or other backing plate, slip the pad eye in place, thread the nuts back into
place, & tighten.  I believe the turnbuckle I used was a Johnson Marine M/N:
07-110 Tubular Body, SS, Jaw & Jaw.  Look in the 2003 West Marine Master
Catalog on page 860 to see this component.  Once the pad eyes are in place,
simply hook up the turnbuckle jaws, & snug up the turnbuckle.  With the pad
eye mounted in the location shown in the above photo, the turnbuckle ends up
at about a 45 deg angle to the bow eye down below in the V-berth area.  With
the rigging loads thus transfered from the foredeck into the hull, you will
never have to worry about the strength of your installation.

I'm sorry, but I don't have a picture of the installation up in the V-berth
area.

In addition, it turns out that the HD padeye on the underside of the
foredeck is quite handy for hanging things like string mesh hammocks.  A
string mesh hammock will give you some well ventillated storage for small
light weight items up in the V-berth area.

The other advantage of an installation like mine is the option that it
provides for whisker pole storage & heavy weather safety.  The above photo
shows how the outboard end of the whisker pole snaps onto the pad eye.  Now,
check out the following photo link:

http://www.rhodes22.org/rhodes/pics/Family_On_Boat.jpg

Refering to this photo, note how the inboard end of the whisker pole just
behind my knees is snapped onto the spinnaker pole ring on the mast.  Stored
in this manner, the whisker pole is mounted low for minimal windage & it
doesn't snag sails or sheets.  It also provides a HD, large diameter
handhold right down the center of the foredeck if you must ever go forward
to the bow in heavy weather.

Good luck, Jay!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "ellner" <ellner@pressenter.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>; "The Rhodes 22
mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Deck thickness

>
>
> Maybe check the depth at the air vent. That should give you an idea.
> RodAt 11:37 AM 3/9/2003 -0500, Jay Friedland wrote:
> >Michael,
> >I'll check Roger's comments. Harken's recommendations are "use only
enough
> >halyard tension to hold luff straight. Excess halyard tension will make
> >furling more difficult and may damage the unit." The total weight of the
> >sail and vectran luff is 6-7 lbs. (a guess) based on Tom's unit. Wichard
> >makes three different lengths, with the straight screw shaft being
1-3/16"
> >(one supplied), 1-3/8", and 2-5/32". As my deck core of non-skid is
> >1-1/4", I figure most of us will be safe with the longest in the raised
> >part, if I can get Paul to change it.
> >
> >Mary Lou, there is a rubber boot/base that has a fairly flexible flange
> >that would seal out any moisture, and it includes a SS backing plate,
> >small, but adequate.
> >J
> >
> >
> >On Sunday, March 9, 2003, at 11:19 AM, Michael Meltzer wrote:
> >
> >>it will vary, depending on who and when the lay-up was done, Stan has
> >>been making the deck thicker over the years, the only way to
> >>know for sure is to check your own, also the coring has been all over
the
> >>places, be ready to reinforce the holes with epoxy by
> >>drilling, flood with exoxy and redrill. Rodger has writen about this a
> >>few time, might be able to post/repost it.
> >>
> >>MJM
> >>
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Jay Friedland" <a.jayf@verizon.net>
> >>To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> >>Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 10:18 AM
> >>Subject: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Deck thickness
> >>
> >>
> >>>Folks,
> >>>Got the deck hardware for the UPS in advance to install. Doyle includes
> >>>a Wichard watertight U-bolt for the furler mounting, but it only has 1"
> >>>of threads. As my boat is in NC, does anyone know the actual/nominal
> >>>thickness of the deck in front of the vent? Also, is there any
> >>>preferred orientation of the U-bolt to minimize load, with the
> >>>centerline or across? Any other mounting recommendations are
> >>>appreciated.Thanks,
> >>>Jay
> >>>
> >>>_________________________________________________
> >>>Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >>
> >>_________________________________________________
> >>Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >
> >_________________________________________________
> >Use Rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>
> _________________________________________________
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>