[Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question
Wally Buck
tnrhodey@hotmail.com
Tue, 18 Mar 2003 08:12:42 -0500
Alex,
Thanks; it is a good tip. I use a similar technique but with a different
product. I use CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealant); a two part product
designed as a wood sealant. When I was making repairs on the Bantam I
visited aseveral Wooden Boat sites (I still do) and heard rave reviews about
this product. Most of these guys liked West products but felt CPES was
vastly superior to thinned West Epoxy as a pre-coat. It is designed for
pentration and absortion into wood products from the start, no thinning
needed. On the CPES web site they claim an absortion rate of 4X over thinned
Epoxy and 9x over standard Epoxy Resin.
I have used CPES extensively as a first layer(s) on my wooden Rhodes Bantem.
It is an extremely thin Epoxy Sealant that paints (or sprays) on. Dry wood
soaks this stuff right up and it dries fast. I have the injection kit for as
well but the needle is to big for the crack. PO painted R22 cabin hatch with
some type of Epoxy as well. I sanded that down last summer and applied CPES
followed by several coats Marine Z Spar Varnish.
Sunday I covered the bare tiller with two coats of CPES and let CPES drip in
the crack. Last night I stuck a razor knife in crack to open up a little and
drizzled in some epoxy laminating resin (designed for wood use) left over
from past repairs on the Bantam. I put three clamps on tiller and when I
inspect today it should be ready for a light sanding and then varnish build
up. I like easy projects like this. Not hard to do and the wood looks
awesome when redone.
I still need to figure out a way to keep rain water off the cabin step....
Thanks,
Wally
>From: Alex Bell <alexbell@coastalnet.com>
>Reply-To: alexbell@coastalnet.com,The Rhodes 22 mail list
><rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question
>Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 00:11:18 -0500
>
>Wally,
>
>I just got a tip from a teak refinisher regarding using epoxy coatings
>on the teak. She said that she thins a mixture of West System epoxy so
>that it will penetrate the wood. After that, she applies varnish (about
>6 coats). The varnish protects the epoxy so that it does not turn
>yellow, etc. A touch up coat each spring will allow the finish to last
>for years without removing and refinishing. Seems like thinned epoxy
>will also go into the delaminated areas easier too.
>
>Alex
>
>Wally Buck wrote:
> >
> > The guy I purchased my boat from had painted resin or epoxy on the
>tiller
> > handle. It looks like crap and it is peeling and turning yellow. Also
>two of
> > the wood layers are seperating. I wanted to sail last year so I put off
> > tiller repairs untill Spring.
> >
> > Now that warm weather has arrived I can start hitting it with varnish. I
> > sanded down to bare wood yesterday and the tiller looks great. I have
>about
> > a 8 inch split in between two of the layers of wood. I am sure this is
>why
> > the PO applied expoy coat. The job was not done properly and I want to
> > reseal the split area.
> >
> > The gap is very small and it will be hard to fill in the space with
>epoxy. I
> > think this is what the PO tried but he wasn't able to seal it off. He
>only
> > epoxied the outer edge and it seperated after time. I want to try and
>epoxy
> > the inside of the split and then clamp the tiller until epoxy sets. I
>was
> > also thinking of using a screw(s) from the bottom of the tiller to help
>draw
> > the wood together. I will then varnish with several coats of Z Spar.
> >
> > Is there a better way to do this repair? I was really surprised to find
>out
> > how nice the wood looked under all that opaque epoxy.
> >
> > Thanks for any suggestions or tips!
> >
> > Wally
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> >
>_________________________________________________
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