[Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question

Tue, 18 Mar 2003 09:22:06 -0500

Steve,

I agree, this is what started the sewing machine thread ....

Wally

>From: Steve <rhodes2282@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question
>Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 06:06:21 -0800 (PST)
>
>Wally
>Just make a cover for your hatch door which will solve
>the pinao hinge problem.  I used some Pacific Blue
>sumbrella & bought a snap kit from WM.  Worked great.
>Steve
>
>
>--- Wally Buck <tnrhodey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Alex,
> >
> > Thanks; it is a good tip. I use a similar technique
> > but with a different
> > product. I use CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy
> > Sealant); a two part product
> > designed as a wood sealant. When I was making
> > repairs on the Bantam I
> > visited aseveral Wooden Boat sites (I still do) and
> > heard rave reviews about
> > this product. Most of these guys liked West products
> > but felt CPES was
> > vastly superior to thinned West Epoxy as a pre-coat.
> > It is designed for
> > pentration and absortion into wood products from the
> > start, no thinning
> > needed. On the CPES web site they claim an absortion
> > rate of 4X over thinned
> > Epoxy and 9x over standard Epoxy Resin.
> >
> > I have used CPES extensively as a first layer(s) on
> > my wooden Rhodes Bantem.
> > It is an extremely thin Epoxy Sealant that paints
> > (or sprays) on. Dry wood
> > soaks this stuff right up and it dries fast. I have
> > the injection kit for as
> > well but the needle is to big for the crack. PO
> > painted R22 cabin hatch with
> > some type of Epoxy as well. I sanded that down last
> > summer and applied CPES
> > followed by several coats  Marine Z Spar Varnish.
> >
> > Sunday I covered the bare tiller with two coats of
> > CPES and let CPES drip in
> > the crack. Last night I stuck a razor knife in crack
> > to open up a little and
> > drizzled in some epoxy laminating resin (designed
> > for wood use) left over
> > from past repairs on the Bantam. I put three clamps
> > on tiller and when I
> > inspect today it should be ready for a light sanding
> > and then varnish build
> > up. I like easy projects like this. Not hard to do
> > and the wood looks
> > awesome when redone.
> >
> > I still need to figure out a way to keep rain water
> > off the cabin step....
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Wally
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: Alex Bell <alexbell@coastalnet.com>
> > >Reply-To: alexbell@coastalnet.com,The Rhodes 22
> > mail list
> > ><rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> > <rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
> > >Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Tiller Repair Question
> > >Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 00:11:18 -0500
> > >
> > >Wally,
> > >
> > >I just got a tip from a teak refinisher regarding
> > using epoxy coatings
> > >on the teak. She said that she thins a mixture of
> > West System epoxy so
> > >that it will penetrate the wood. After that, she
> > applies varnish (about
> > >6 coats). The varnish protects the epoxy so that it
> > does not turn
> > >yellow, etc. A touch up coat each spring will allow
> > the finish to last
> > >for years without removing and refinishing. Seems
> > like thinned epoxy
> > >will also go into the delaminated areas easier too.
> > >
> > >Alex
> > >
> > >Wally Buck wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The guy I purchased my boat from had painted
> > resin or epoxy on the
> > >tiller
> > > > handle. It looks like crap and it is peeling and
> > turning yellow. Also
> > >two of
> > > > the wood layers are seperating. I wanted to sail
> > last year so I put off
> > > > tiller repairs untill Spring.
> > > >
> > > > Now that warm weather has arrived I can start
> > hitting it with varnish. I
> > > > sanded down to bare wood yesterday and the
> > tiller looks great. I have
> > >about
> > > > a 8 inch split in between two of the layers of
> > wood. I am sure this is
> > >why
> > > > the PO applied expoy coat. The job was not done
> > properly and I want to
> > > > reseal the split area.
> > > >
> > > > The gap is very small and it will be hard to
> > fill in the space with
> > >epoxy. I
> > > > think this is what the PO tried but he wasn't
> > able to seal it off. He
> > >only
> > > > epoxied the outer edge and it seperated after
> > time. I want to try and
> > >epoxy
> > > > the inside of the split and then clamp the
> > tiller until epoxy sets. I
> > >was
> > > > also thinking of using a screw(s) from the
> > bottom of the tiller to help
> > >draw
> > > > the wood together. I will then varnish with
> > several coats of Z Spar.
> > > >
> > > > Is there a better way to do this repair? I was
> > really surprised to find
> > >out
> > > > how nice the wood looked under all that opaque
> > epoxy.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any suggestions or tips!
> > > >
> > > > Wally
> > > >
> > > >
> >
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