[ham] [Rhodes22-list] Mooring Pennants

Tue May 13 01:28:32 EDT 2003

is your call, the issue is if the water level every drops to the point that the bottom starts to push up on the centerboard it will
force it right though the centerboard cap, leveing the boat flooded on the foam floation. the centerboard is designed to "round up"
like in a grounding, same issue overnighting, if the tide drop while you are sleeping. the second issue, why is swinging bad?

MJM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Dobson" <dobson777 at hotmail.com>
To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Mooring Pennants

> Michael, I have a question on the effect of the swing on the buoy with no
> current on the lake . Should the board be up or done? It seems to me down
> would minize the swing. Would that not be safer?
>
>
> b dobson
> s/v Kel-Lee
>
>
> >From: "Michael Meltzer" <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com>
> >Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Mooring Pennants
> >Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:34:37 -0400
> >
> >The reason you do not see much is that it depends on local conditions,
> >generally harbor master(i.e an old salt for the area) will
> >layout what is need in the area. I give you what I know but it might be far
> >from right for you.
> >
> >
> >1)Can not use a concrete for the bottom block, concrete weighs allot on
> >land but it density is near water, the size block has to be
> >very oversized to work for a boat and is way to heavy to manage(i.e. also
> >why bodies keep floating up, not to mention the body fars
> >apart :-)
> >
> >2)I am sure Steve will tell on old cast iron engine block being chained
> >together and used on a small lake, it works for the area.
> >
> >3)for my area is in a mud bottom, very salty, so a cast iron mushroom is
> >the standard, the harbor master recommends 11 pounds per
> >foot of boatlenght, minimum, or 242 pounds I rounded it up to 300 pounds, I
> >did not think thing he gave me enough scope. heavier is
> >better.
> >
> >4)A mushroom anchor has a long shaft and get allot of the holding power by
> >being stuck in the mud, it best to bury them, infact they
> >will hold better after a few sessions, the other problem is the long shaft,
> >it might stand straight up on you, like 3 extra feet of
> >water might be needed from a spring low with a storm(as keep the shaft off
> >the boat), most people never get that much so around me
> >you pay the anchor guy to set it.
> >
> >5)BTW the highest working load numbers I have seen is 1100 pounds for a
> >rhodes22(from wind), but remember their is still wave :-).
> >
> >6)now for some chain :-) they give use around 3:1 scope for the chain, or a
> >real example 4 feet spring low, 12.5 feet spring high,
> >16.5 storm surge. so 16.5*3=49 feet, now this is only scope to the top of
> >the water you should add another 2 feet for the bow cleat,
> >(But you will not now get it around me :), that one of the reasons to use
> >bow eye(plus I think the bow eye is stronger). Now most
> >people(and Chapman) recommend using a heavy bottom chain to add
> >weight(better cattery effect please riding) and to help with
> >"wearing" of the chain on the bottom. about 1.5-2(I got the surge room so I
> >used 2) of the scope or 33 feet of chain, 3/4 is the
> >biggest I find locally but it pricey, allot of people use 5/8, now this
> >stuff weight from 4-5.5 pounds a foot adding 180 pounds to
> >the system. what it is doing is absorbing the first 200lb+- of the
> >wind/wave load being "soft" on the boat hardware keeping down
> >peek loads. add a swivel and connect on 17 feet of 3/8(a little oversize
> >for wear), it a trade off, if the riding chain is to heavy
> >it will sink the buoy and to light and it will have no long term use.
> >
> >7)the use hard shell buoys around me with the chain passing thought the
> >center, believed to be safer with the pendant on the chain
> >and at year end they detatach the buoy and lets the chain sink to the
> >bottom with a float and messenger line, they call it "picking"
> >it, the system wears less in the mud over the winter, so they claim.
> >
> >8)the pendant around me are 5/8 or 3/4  stretchy nylon, the chain will get
> >rebar tight after 200+- pounds of force so you want to
> >use 5/8(which is a little to large, but safer long term)
> >
> >the pendant is 15 feet, like I said before I like the bow eye with a back
> >up to the bow cleat with a large snap shackles(only that
> >will work on a windy day), adding a "swimming pool" inline float to the
> >pendant helps when the line falls in :-) a boat hook is a
> >must have, and I used a "whip" float with a short line that I shackled  the
> >pendants when I left.
> >
> >Around me every 5 year the system has to be pulled/inspected/replaced as
> >needed, wire the shackles, tiewrap the pendant/buoy connect
> >shackles(yearly replaced), make sure the metals match(stainless with
> >stainless and galvanized with  galvanized).
> >
> >9)now the other nasty problem, just because you do everything right, does
> >not mean the next person did, around 5 boat a year break
> >away around me, as client eastward would say "feeling lucky" and they
> >pinball around the mooring(going fast because it generally in
> >a storm). The other issue you have to watch out for, both wind and tides
> >effect a boat swing, rarely do you get and 100 foot circle
> >to your self, because the boats move together the circle overlap, now the
> >problem, the rhodes22 does sail at anchor and with the
> >center boat up(which is a must so the center board does to push thought the
> >cap) it acts more like a power boat, put next to a fixed
> >keel sailboat it can crash right into the side(the keel is reacting to the
> >tide, the rhodes22 to the wind)
> >
> >
> >Their more and I sure typing skills have butchered this and made it
> >complete non understandable but should get you started.
> >
> >MJM
> >
> >PS. what is right for me, might be complete wrong for your area, not
> >kidding here and if and when your boat breaks loss(from a bad
> >system or simply age) you can only blame yourself, no one garrintess these
> >things. And the salavge laws kick in which mean you
> >loose(pay) 20% of the boat.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Robert Dilk" <Robert.Dilk at TRW.COM>
> >To: <mjm at michaelmeltzer.com>; <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 8:24 AM
> >Subject: Re: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Mooring Pennants
> >
> >
> >I have never used a mooring. I looked in all the books and there seems to
> >be a variety of mooring setups. Would you want to describe
> >the different moorings you have seen and how to pickup and hook up the
> >mooring lines.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Bob
> >S/V Knot Necessary
> >
> > >>> mjm at michaelmeltzer.com 05/11/03 01:49PM >>>
> >stainless snap shackle to the bow eye (5/8 3 strand with SS thimble and a
> >real splice, you need a galvanized thimble for the mooring
> >ring), the boat will ride good from it and easy to deal with.  The backup
> >is an independent system(i.e back to the ring/chain)
> >thought chock(chafe guard here) and to the bow cleat loop, the second one
> >is made to be loose and will only come into play if the
> >bow eye fails systems fails. you could make the bow cleat a double system
> >but that a little much.
> >
> >BTW you might want a float pole to make pickup easier
> >
> >MJM
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "David Walker" <david.walker5 at attbi.com>
> >To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 12:02 PM
> >Subject: [ham] [Rhodes22-list] Mooring Pennants
> >
> >
> >Windswept is almost ready to get wet in Salem Harbor.  This is the first
> >time I will be mooring her.  What's the consensus - attach
> >the mooring pennant to the bow cleat through the chocks, or use the bow
> >eye?
> >
> >Dave Walker
> >S/V Windswept
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