[Rhodes22-list] Re: CB trunk, bottom paint

[Roger Pihlaja]

Lou,

50 deg F is really pushing the low edge of the envelope for any air cured
paint.  Is there anyway you could set up a tent around the centerboard well
& heat the interior with some sort of space heater?  Note: beware the
build-up of flammable vapors in any enclosed space with a space heater!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Re: CB trunk, bottom paint


> Roger, Richard,
>   I am very anxious to finish this project before the weather degrades
> to cold nasty days, and wanted your opinions on pushing the envelope
> for using  a bottom paint when the ambient temp is around 50F??
>   I will of course read the instruction on  Pettit's Trinidad before I
> buy if I can find it in a store in NYC,  I have the PS 2003 issue
> which listed and evaluated all the bottom paints and will see what I
> can find. My only other choice after I am assured my board will not
> jam again, is to put it back together without using all the bolts and
> paint in the spring.
>   any ideas?
>   Lou
>
>
> >Richard,
> >
> >High CuO content bottom paints with a hard epoxy binder function by
slowly
> >leaching the copper to the surface.  Since the CuO is already in an
oxidized
> >state and the epoxy binder is inert to oxygen at room temperature, air
> >exposure should have no effect upon these properties.  Pettit Trinidad
was
> >developed for use in extreme fouling tropical conditions, i.e. like the
> >Caribbean Sea where the island of Trinidad is located.  Since sea water
does
> >not have a very high cuprous ion content, there should be no suppression
of
> >the biocide solubility.  I don't think Lou should use one of the ablative
or
> >sloughing bottom paints inside his centerboard trunk because of the close
> >clearances and potential for mechanical and abrasive wear.  I suggested
> >Petit Trinidad because it dries to a very hard slippery finish and should
> >last as long as anything else currently on the market.  Naturally, you
would
> >also want to coat the centerboard with bottom paint & I would think
Pettit
> >Trinidad would be a good choice here as well.  With so much CuO around on
> >both the centerboard trunk & the centerboard, I don't think marine growth
> >will have much of a chance to get started.  But, your point regarding
> >raising & lowering the centerboard a couple of times per week is well
taken
> >& would be cheap insurance.
> >
> >Roger Pihlaja
> >S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Richard Smith" <sailnut at worldnet.att.net>
> >To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 3:11 PM
> >Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Re: CB trunk, bottom paint
> >
> >
> >>  < The high CuO
> >>  > >content should keep the fouling at bay for years inside a
centerboard
> >>  trunk.>
> >>
> >>  I don't think this will work in salt water!  Once exposed to the air
these
> >>  seasonal coatings lose much or all of their antifouling properties.
It's
> >>  possible to revive them (slightly) by sanding.  Difficult to sand the
> >>  interior of the trunk though.
> >>
> >>  The issue of centerboard trunk fouling (in boats always in the water)
has
> >
> >>  never been successfully addressed.  I think the best approach is to
paint
> >>  the board itself with a quality antifouling compound and lower and
raise
> >it
> >>  a couple of times every week.  This will go along ways towards
eliminating
> >>  marine fouling in the trunk.  By following this schedule my boat had
> >always
> >>  had very little hard growth  in this area.
> >>
> >>  Richard Smith
> >>
> >>
> >>  __________________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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