[Rhodes22-list] Re: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was: Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy

Fri Dec 31 17:12:19 EST 2004

Bryan,

Figuring about 10 mils/side, the thickness of your floor boards will
increase by about 0.020 inches.  0.365 + 0.040 = 0.405  Therefore, you will
have to remove some material from your floorboars prior to epoxy treatment.

Roger Pihlaja
Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
To: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>; "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 1:36 PM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was: Surface
Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy

> Thanks for all the tips.  The dingy that I have uses, for the two aft
boards, a aluminum rail on each side that has a groove in which the boards
fit.  The outer edge of the rail is shaped to interface with the rubber
dingy material.
>
> One concern that I have is adding thickness to the boards that would
prevent it from going into the side rails.  Presently the raw board is .365
inch and the rail groove is .400  It is designed to fit snug to prevent the
flexing of the two rear sections. I am not sure how much thickness the resin
and paint will add to the boards.
>
> The original boards were varnished.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> Sent: Dec 31, 2004 9:17 AM
> To: Bryan Childs <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>,
> The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was: Surface Coating for Floor
Boards for an Inflatable Dingy
>
> Bryan,
>
> My inflatable sport dingy is the roll-up type.  The slats for the floor
> boards are made of hollow rectangular extruded aluminum tubing, which are
> hinged to each other as well as to the inflatable's transom.  To prevent
the
> ends of the aluminum floor slats from chafing against the inside of the
> inflatable's air chambers, the ends of the slats are covered with hard
> rubber caps.  Many of the plywood floor inflatables I've seen have an
> extruded plastic or hard rubber channel that snaps over the exposed edges
of
> the plywood.  This snap-on channel serves the same anti-chafe function as
> the hard rubber caps on my inflatable.  Richard makes an excellent point
> regarding not allowing an abrasive nonskid surface to rub up against the
air
> chambers.  However, I can speak from personal experience at how slippery &
> dangerous a wet painted or varnished deck can be.  Therefore, I would
still
> consider using the sand or some other nonskid material in your paint
> topcoat.  If the plywood floor in your inflatable does not have the
snap-on
> channels as described above; then, you will have to mask off about an inch
> along the outer edge of the floor boards when you are sprinkling the
nonskid
> material onto the wet paint.  This will give the nonskid deck surface you
> need without exposing your air chambers to excessive abrasive wear.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> To: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>; "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 7:48 AM
> Subject: Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy
>
>
> > Bryan,
> >
> > I would use epoxy to stabilize the plywood laminate against water
> intrusion.
> > The best way to do this would require a high pressure autoclave to force
> the
> > epoxy deep into the laminate.  Since you probably don't have access to
> such
> > a system, here's what I would do:
> >
> > 1. Sand off all any remaining varnish or paint on the plywood floor
> sections
> > & set them up as if you were going to varnish.
> >
> > 2. At room temperature, use WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy resin, 209 extra slow
> > hardener, and cut the mixture to about 50%wt with acetone.  Mix the 105
> > epoxy resin with the acetone and get it blended up thoroughly.  Then,
> blend
> > in the 209 extra slow hardener.  You should end up with a mixture that
is
> > very thin (low viscosity); but, still brushable.  WARNING: Acetone is
very
> > flammable & the vapors are somewhat toxic.  So, be careful about
ignition
> > sources and provide plenty of ventilation.  Wear personal protective
gear
> > (PPG) such as rubber gloves, rubber apron, rubber boots, goggles,
chemical
> > vapor respirator.
> >
> > 3. At room temperature, this thinned epoxy will have a pot life of about
> an
> > hour.  During this time, keep brushing the liquid onto your floor
> sections,
> > paying particular attention to the places where the plywood end grain is
> > exposed.  The thin epoxy should soak into the wood about as fast as you
> can
> > brush it on.  The acetone solvent will evaporate, leaving behind the
> epoxy,
> > which will cure up deep inside the plywood laminate.  If there is any
> > interior rot in the plywood, the epoxy will arrest the rot and should
> > permanently stabilize the laminate structure.
> >
> > 4. Leave the floor boards hanging at room temperature for at least 8
> hours;
> > but, not more than 20 hours to allow the acetone time to evaporate &
> diffuse
> > out of the wood plus have the epoxy cure to a green state.
> >
> > 5. At room temperature, mix up another batch of WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy
> resin
> > & 206 slow hardener.  Brush this mixture onto the plywood surface like
it
> > was varnish.  Some of it may soak into the wood; but, most of it should
> > layer on the surface like varnish.
> >
> > 6. Leave the floor boards hanging at room temperature for at least 2
> hours;
> > but, not more than 12 hours to allow the epoxy time to cure to a green
> > state.
> >
> > 7. At room temperature, mix up another batch of WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy
> resin
> > & 206 slow hardener.  Add WEST SYSTEM 422 barrier coat additive until
the
> > mixture has a viscosity similar to exterior latex paint.  Brush on two
or
> > three thin layers of this material allowing 2 to 12 hours between coats.
> > Let the final coat cure for at least 24 hours
> >
> > 8. Wash away any waxy amine blush on the surface with acetone.
> >
> > 9. Do any required finish sanding at this point.
> >
> > 10. I would finish up with a good polyurethane topsides paint like
Awlgrip
> > or Interthane Plus Two-Part Polyurethane in the color of your choice.
> > Consider sprinkling some coarse washed sand over the wet paint to
provide
> a
> > nonskid surface.  NOTE: Even with the 422 barrier coat additive, epoxy
> does
> > not have good resistance to UV.  Therefore, this final coating of paint
is
> > essential for long epoxy life.  This will be especially important in an
> > application like a floorboard where it may sit for long periods with
water
> > on it and the hot noon day sun beating down.
> >
> > All this probably sounds like a royal PITA; but, it should provide you
> with
> > a set of bulletproof, maintenance-free floorboards.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
> > To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 3:54 PM
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an
> > InflatableDingy
> >
> >
> > > I use an inflatable dingy for my Rhodes when cruising and I am in the
> > process of rebuilding the floor boards.  (Heading to the Florida Keys in
> > late Jan) These are boards that are linked together that form the
flooring
> > of the dingy.
> > >
> > > The original boards were varnished and did not last very long so I am
> > searching for a more durable coating.  Remember the edges of these
boards
> > are submersed in water particularly the stern section.  I have marine
> > plywood but need opinions on the best coating: varnish,  epoxy paint,
> resin.
> > >
> > > I know Roger will have some good ideas.
> > >
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> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
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