[Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...

[Robert Dobson]

I to have a two questions for the board...---too  
#1 my Rhodes22 does not have inside tracts installed.
I have 175 jib and Intermast main . Obviously I sail
with full blown jib out side the the shrouds. From the
discussion so far it is not a big benefit with the 175
to go inside. I shorten up to tach but otherwise I am
100% out. Would you consider it necessary or just a
option , to be able to go inside with the 175 ?

#2 I know that it his been way above normal in rain
fall in Wisconsin this year. Each time I go to the
boat, I have to bail at least a full bucket or 2 out
of the bilge. I know it is not from the bottom. It is
rain water and I can not see any obvious areas the it
is coming in the cabin area. The lazerette is now got
weather stripping on it but has not cured the problem.
Are there other drains or channels that might allow
for this that I am missing? It is dry in the lazerette
as long as the water does not accumulate too much
before I get to bail. The areas do not seem to be open
to each other but still there is flow back and forth
between the lazerette and the bilge. Just wondering if
any one has experienced similar problems?

Bob Dobson
s/v Kel Lee

Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> Sheldon,
> 
> Question #1:
> 
> I am assuming your foresail was reefed to less than
> 100% in these
> conditions.  However, if you are in doubt, if the
> clew of the foresail
> extended aft of the chainplate on the upper
> sidestays; then, you should
> always route the sheets outside of the shrouds.
> 
> The only time you will want to route the sheets
> inboard of the shrouds is
> when you are on a point of sail more upwind than a
> beam reach with the
> foresail reefed to less than about 100%.  Please
> read the jib car tuning
> procedure given below.  If this procedure causes the
> sheet to become fouled
> on a lifelife or a shroud & you don't like the
> resulting sailshape; then,
> you should reroute the sheets &/or switch genoa
> tracks to eliminate the
> fouling.
> 
> The following article was taken from the Rhodes 22
> FAQ website:
> 
> http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/jibcars.html
> JIB CAR TUNING PROCEDURE:
> 
> The basic method for determining the position for
> the jib cars is to sight
> up the jib sheet & continue the imaginary line past
> the clew all the way to
> the forestay. At the proper jib car position, this
> imaginary line should
> intersect the midpoint on the luff of the sail. As
> the sail is reefed, the
> jib car position will move forward. Shift to the
> forward track when the rear
> track won't give you the proper geometry, usually
> with a foresail smaller
> than about 100%.
> 
> The above procedure will give you an approximate jib
> car position, which can
> then be fine tuned thru the use of tell tales. The
> following procedure can
> be used for fine tuning the jib on points of sail
> from close hauled to a
> beam reach. On any point of sail more downwind than
> a beam reach, you should
> just use the above basic procedure since the mode of
> operation of the sail
> changes from behaving like a wing to behaving more
> like a parachute.
> 
> You should have 3 tell tales about 12" back from the
> luff & equally spaced
> down the luff of the sail. Usually, tell tales are
> installed with a small
> window so the sail trimmer can see the tell tale on
> both sides of the sail
> without having to duck their head under the sail.
> The sail is properly
> trimmed when the windward & leeward tell tales at
> all 3 positions are
> streaming backwards. The proper jib car position is
> determined by either the
> jib trimmer pulling in slightly on the jib sheet or
> the helmsman pinching up
> slightly into the wind while watching the behavior
> of the tell tales. (This
> test is done slowly) If the top tell tales flutter
> before the bottom; then,
> the sail shape is twisted too much. You should move
> the jib car position
> forward a few inches. This will alter the geometry
> of the jib sheet to cause
> the line to pull down more on the clew of the sail,
> increase leech tension,
> & reduce twist. If the bottom tell tales flutter
> 1st; then, the sail needs
> more twist & the jib car position should be moved
> aft a couple of inches.
> Note that this effect is subtle & moving the jib car
> position a few inches
> one way or the other is all that is required.
> 
> Peter, you should also remember to start your sail
> trimming with the
> headsail, get it close & then trim the mainsail. The
> two sails will interact
> & affect each other's trim settings. So, you have to
> keep trimming 1st one &
> then the other making fine adjustments. Most
> cruising sailers call the sail
> trim good enough after about one repetition of this
> procedure unless sailing
> conditions suddenly change drastically.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 07 Jul 2001
> 
> Question #2:
> 
> All autopilots contain a built-in magnetic compass &
> a means of setting a
> desired compass heading.  So, the simplest autopilot
> configuration is not
> actually sailing to any definite waypoint.  Instead,
> the autopilot is merely
> reacting to keep the bow of the boat pointed at a
> set compass heading.  The
> control circuitry in most autopilots has adjustable
> filtering to enable the
> response of the autopilot to be fine-tuned for
> prevailing conditions - i.e.
> wave height & direction relative to the point of
> sail & wind direction.
> Many autopilots have an optional input for an
> apparent wind direction.
> Then, the autopilot can maintain a set course
> relative to the wind
> direction - i.e. sail close hauled no matter what
> the wind direction does.
> Finally, some autopilots have a GPS input.  With a
> GPS input, the autopilot
> can actually sail the boat to a defined location on
> the surface of the
> earth.  However, note that the autopilot is not
> aware of any objects around
> it, shallow water, any changes in sail trim required
> by variations in the
> wind speed or direction or course changes.  All the
> GPS interfaced autopilot
> does is keep the bow of the boat pointed at the next
> waypoint until the
> distance between the boat and the waypoint equals
> zero.  If the input GPS
> course takes the boat thru shallow water, over a
> reef, into a jetty...Oh
> well, you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> We only use our autopilot when we are in open water
> with a long passage to
> make on a single compass heading.  Autopilots do
> make long passages easier
> on the crew & enable singlehanding; but, it is still
> essential to maintain a
> lookout.  We never leave the autopilot driving the
> boat unattended for very
> long.  The Rhodes 22 works very well with an
> autopilot.  The shoal draft
> keel provides a lot of directional stability and the
> rudder blade is big &
> semi-balanced.  In order for the autopilot to work
> well, the sail plan must
> be balanced to provide a nearly neutral helm.  The
> autopilot has no
> knowledge of the oncoming wave patterns &/or wind
> shifts.  Therefore, it
> sails the boat in a reactive mode vs. a proactive
> mode.  A sharp crew,
> actively sailing the boat, will average about 10-15%
> better speed by taking
> advantage of waves & wind shifts.  However, the
> autopilot does maintain a
> set compass course as well as almost any human
> helmsman.
> 
> 
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> 
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sheldon Green" <sheldongreen at comcast.net>
> To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 10:46 PM
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...
> 
> 
> > I have a couple of questions for the board...
> >
> > Question #1:  While sailing this past weekend in
> relatively high winds
> 15-20
> > knots, I wasn't sure where the Jib lines should be
> routed... Should the
> Jib
> > Lines be routed outside or inside the shrouds?  Or
> when should the Jib
> Sheet
> > Lines be routed inside vs. outside the shrouds?
> 
=== message truncated ===



		
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