[Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...

[Robert Dobson]

The Idea of installing a cam cleat on the side of the
cabin sound pretty neat, it would keep my deck clear.
Is it effective? I used a marine weather stripping on
the inside of the lazerette lid, so I am assuming I
have eliminated that source. The drains are tptally
open. I am assuming there is no way to replace the
cockpit floor drain til I pull the boat. It does not
appear it is leaking but have a good amount of rust
and deterioration--- ed kroposki
<ekroposki at charter.net> wrote:
> TO:  Robert Dobson
> 
> Question #1:  Recent models of the R22 do not have
> inside tracks but have a
> cam cleat on the side of the cabin to achieve inside
> sheeting.  Question to
> you?  Do you have this recent modification by the
> illustrious Stan Spitzer?
> 
> Question #2:  Many of us have had such water
> problems.  For the past year my
> lazerette has been most often dry, but once or twice
> I get a surprise.  Most
> of my water came from three sources:
> 	(1) Around the edge of the lazerette hatch when it
> rain too much to
> drain quickly out the seat drains.  So, make sure
> you occasionally clean the
> drains.  A bottle brush works fine.
> 	(2) The previous owner had modified the seats so
> that water drained
> out close to the cabin.  That is he drilled two
> holes in the drain channel.
> What happened is that water siphoned along the
> bottom edge of the seats over
> the bulkhead and into the cabin.  Following
> suggestion from this list, I
> installed drain tubes with epoxy to take the water
> to the cockpit floor.  No
> more siphon problem.
> 	(3) The connecting tube from the cockpit floor
> drain to the thru
> hull leaked.  I tighten the hose clamps and reduced
> the volume to a few
> drops.  You would have to remove the tubes and apply
> sealant while the boat
> is out of water.  This is a little room to move the
> tube situation.
> 
> Now others have found various other sources of
> water.  Mary Lou has posted
> one known source.  Understand, there are more
> sources, so you will have to
> play detective and fix one or more then wait and
> see.  Eventually, you will
> find the source of your water.
> 
> Ed K 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
> Behalf Of Robert Dobson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2004 6:45 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Owner Questions ...
> 
> I to have a two questions for the board...---too  
> #1 my Rhodes22 does not have inside tracts
> installed.
> I have 175 jib and Intermast main . Obviously I sail
> with full blown jib out side the the shrouds. From
> the
> discussion so far it is not a big benefit with the
> 175
> to go inside. I shorten up to tach but otherwise I
> am
> 100% out. Would you consider it necessary or just a
> option , to be able to go inside with the 175 ?
> 
> #2 I know that it his been way above normal in rain
> fall in Wisconsin this year. Each time I go to the
> boat, I have to bail at least a full bucket or 2 out
> of the bilge. I know it is not from the bottom. It
> is
> rain water and I can not see any obvious areas the
> it
> is coming in the cabin area. The lazerette is now
> got
> weather stripping on it but has not cured the
> problem.
> Are there other drains or channels that might allow
> for this that I am missing? It is dry in the
> lazerette
> as long as the water does not accumulate too much
> before I get to bail. The areas do not seem to be
> open
> to each other but still there is flow back and forth
> between the lazerette and the bilge. Just wondering
> if
> any one has experienced similar problems?
> 
> Bob Dobson
> s/v Kel Lee
> 
> Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net> wrote:
> > Sheldon,
> > 
> > Question #1:
> > 
> > I am assuming your foresail was reefed to less
> than
> > 100% in these
> > conditions.  However, if you are in doubt, if the
> > clew of the foresail
> > extended aft of the chainplate on the upper
> > sidestays; then, you should
> > always route the sheets outside of the shrouds.
> > 
> > The only time you will want to route the sheets
> > inboard of the shrouds is
> > when you are on a point of sail more upwind than a
> > beam reach with the
> > foresail reefed to less than about 100%.  Please
> > read the jib car tuning
> > procedure given below.  If this procedure causes
> the
> > sheet to become fouled
> > on a lifelife or a shroud & you don't like the
> > resulting sailshape; then,
> > you should reroute the sheets &/or switch genoa
> > tracks to eliminate the
> > fouling.
> > 
> > The following article was taken from the Rhodes 22
> > FAQ website:
> > 
> > http://www.geocities.com/blew_skies/jibcars.html
> > JIB CAR TUNING PROCEDURE:
> > 
> > The basic method for determining the position for
> > the jib cars is to sight
> > up the jib sheet & continue the imaginary line
> past
> > the clew all the way to
> > the forestay. At the proper jib car position, this
> > imaginary line should
> > intersect the midpoint on the luff of the sail. As
> > the sail is reefed, the
> > jib car position will move forward. Shift to the
> > forward track when the rear
> > track won't give you the proper geometry, usually
> > with a foresail smaller
> > than about 100%.
> > 
> > The above procedure will give you an approximate
> jib
> > car position, which can
> > then be fine tuned thru the use of tell tales. The
> > following procedure can
> > be used for fine tuning the jib on points of sail
> > from close hauled to a
> > beam reach. On any point of sail more downwind
> than
> > a beam reach, you should
> > just use the above basic procedure since the mode
> of
> > operation of the sail
> > changes from behaving like a wing to behaving more
> > like a parachute.
> > 
> > You should have 3 tell tales about 12" back from
> the
> > luff & equally spaced
> > down the luff of the sail. Usually, tell tales are
> > installed with a small
> > window so the sail trimmer can see the tell tale
> on
> > both sides of the sail
> > without having to duck their head under the sail.
> > The sail is properly
> > trimmed when the windward & leeward tell tales at
> > all 3 positions are
> > streaming backwards. The proper jib car position
> is
> > determined by either the
> > jib trimmer pulling in slightly on the jib sheet
> or
> > the helmsman pinching up
> > slightly into the wind while watching the behavior
> > of the tell tales. (This
> > test is done slowly) If the top tell tales flutter
> > before the bottom; then,
> > the sail shape is twisted too much. You should
> move
> > the jib car position
> > forward a few inches. This will alter the geometry
> > of the jib sheet to cause
> > the line to pull down more on the clew of the
> sail,
> > increase leech tension,
> > & reduce twist. If the bottom tell tales flutter
> > 1st; then, the sail needs
> > more twist & the jib car position should be moved
> > aft a couple of inches.
> > Note that this effect is subtle & moving the jib
> car
> > position a few inches
> > one way or the other is all that is required.
> > 
> > Peter, you should also remember to start your sail
> 
=== message truncated ===



		
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