[Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes 22

[Lou Rosenberg]

  Roger,
    Much thanks for your description of the construction of the hull 
and rub rail.  I have to re bed my trailer U bolt and have had to 
remove some of the screws holding the cabin liner.  Any words of 
advice on how to get to that U bolt ?

  On the blewskies site the photo of your gold Astro with your son 
next to it.. I have the identical vehicle do you tow the boat with 
the Astro?  How does it do uphill??
  Although I have the tow haul pkg  I plan to add the tranny cooler 
when I get my hitch early in 05.  Rick C helped me get my trailer 
from LI to Bklyn in August so I avoided a trailer expense this season.


Some one who thought they could attach some sort of bumper to the 
front of my R22 ( 81 hull) left 4 ugly holes on the topside of the 
deck just above the rubrail.  I used polyester resin on the the holes 
and then gelcoated them now in the process of fairing and finishing. 
I need to change my rub rail next year but I dont think its leaking.. 
My poptop leak was from the hatch fasteners which are now being 
rebedded.  Just gelcoated and reinforced my hatch.
  Someone had stepped on the leading edge and cracked it. my boat was 
badly abused and neglected.
  thanks again for that great description of the way to fix the rub rail!!
  Lou



>Steve,
>
>Assuming your 1983 hull is constructed like my 1976 hull, the hull/deck
>flange design resembles something like the lid of a shoebox.  The deck has a
>downward flange that overlaps the upper edge of the hull.  The space in
>between the two components was filled with some sort of sealant & then the
>two were mechanically joined with pop rivets on about 18 inch centers.
>Finally, the rub rail was installed on the outside of the hull to hide the
>seam.  On the inside, the cabin liner also has a downward flange all around
>the perimeter.  This cabin liner flange is nonstructural & there should be a
>decorative black vinyl molding thru bolted to the flange in order to cover
>the hull/deck joint.  In order to inspect the hull/deck flange, this
>decorative molding will have to be removed.  When you remove any pieces of
>this molding, be certain to mark the location it came from as well as which
>end was facing towards the bow because these pieces/parts are not
>interchangeable.
>
>The shoebox type of hull/deck flange is a pretty good design & really
>shouldn't cause a problem; but, I suppose it's possible the hull/deck flange
>has developed a leak.  However, before removing the rub rail, I would remove
>the decorative molding up in the V-berth area.  If the hull/deck joint is
>leaking; then, the most likely source is one of the pop rivets.  With the
>decorative molding removed, you will be able to pinpoint the leak.  Assuming
>the leak really is a pop rivet, you will have to remove the section of rub
>rail and drill out the pop rivet.  Then, I would cover the inside and
>outside of the pop rivet hole with a HD tape like duck tape.  Take a
>hypoderdermic syringe and inject as much unthickened epoxy as you can into
>the pop rivet hole.  Let the epoxy cure, drill out the hole, put in a new
>pop rivet (or machine screw & nut), and reassemble the whole thing.
>
>However, it's also quite likely that once you remove the decorative molding,
>you will see the hull/deck joint is not the source of the leak.  To locate
>the leak, seal yourself up inside the cabin.  Have an assistant spray water
>on various thru bolted fittings on the foredeck and cabin top one at a time
>for several minutes each while you inspect for leakage inside the cabin.
>It's quite likely the source of the leak is something like a deck cleat,
>cabin port, or rail stanchion.  It's also possible you have a crack in the
>foredeck in the nonskid or the toe rail and the water is running along the
>inside of the cabin liner for some distance before dripping out where you
>observe it.
>
>Tiny leaks like you have can be drive you nuts trying to track them down!
>Good luck.
>
>Roger Pihlaja
>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "steve" <stevej78 at comcast.net>
>To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:27 PM
>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes 22
>
>
>Roger,
>
>Good evening,
>
>I 'm a Rhodes 22 owner with a 1983 Rhodes.  I live in Bellevue, WA., in the
>Seattle area.
>
>There is a leak on the port side inside the v berth of the boat.
>
>It's a small leak in the in the berth that weeps from the on the port side
>seams where the upper deck and hull meet..
>
>This leak seeps down along the port seam to the wooden support rail which is
>fiber glassed in the bow.  The water continues along the rail to the end of
>the rail where now the exposed wood shows dampness.
>
>Would the rub rail and the black holding device for the rub rail be removed
>off around the nose of the boat and using a sealant calk the joint to solve
>the leak?
>
>Please advise in stopping this leak.
>
>Thank you for your patience in reading this long email.
>
>
>Steve Jacobs
>
>Bellevue, WA
>
>Stevej78 at comcast.com
>
>
>
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