[Rhodes22-list] Florida Relief
Roger Pihlaja
cen09402 at centurytel.net
Tue Oct 26 20:56:18 EDT 2004
Bill,
I didn't say anything about deploying the National Guard to help with the
situation in Florida, where the disaster relief resources are going to come
from, or whether or not this is an issue the federal government should or
should not be involved in. I merely made the observation that we have a
humanitarian crisis of rather large scale in Florida that is going
unreported by the mainstream press. It's been my experience that resources
seem to suddenly become available whenever the press exposes situations like
what is happening in Florida.
My own sense from last week's experience is that the shear scale of the
disaster has overwhelmed the resources available to America's churches.
At the very least, I think there should be a national debate or at least an
awareness at the national level of just how bad things still are down there
in Florida.
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Effros" <bill at effros.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 10:27 AM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Florida Relief
> Roger,
>
> We no longer have enough either money or people to deal with things like
this when they come up. The National Guard used to do what you did last
week. There was money put aside for natural disaster relief.
>
> You are going to have to decide what you think is important. Is this a
job for government, or not?
>
> When push comes to shove you can't find enough money or people to do the
job privately.
>
> I don't have a scripted answer for this. I don't think you do, either.
>
> Bill
>
>
> Printed copies of my book "Quote Without Comment" are now available from
Amazon and all Bookstores.
>
> Ask for "Quote Without Comment" by Bill Effros--ISBN 1-5901-9587-6
>
> If they are out of stock they can get more copies within 3 days.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Roger Pihlaja
> To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 6:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes
22
>
>
> Lou,
>
> Again, assuming your 1981 hull is built like my 1976 hull, the bow towing
> eye is behind a piece of decorative teak plywood in the extreme front of
the
> V-berth area. On my boat, there are a couple of flat head SS wood screws
> fastening the plywood to the cabin liner. Unscrew those two wood screws,
> lift off the plywood, and you will be looking at the nuts & backing plate
of
> the bow towing eye. You will need a deep socket wrench to loosen these
> nuts.
>
> Yes, the 1995 AWD Astro minivan in the picture is our primary tow vehicle.
> Our Astro is rated to tow 4500 lbs, the middle of the 3 factory offered
> towing packages. It came with a transmission cooler. It's a great tow
> vehicle, perfectly adequate for towing the Rhodes 22. I also tow my Boy
> Scout troop trailer with the Astro, about 4000 lbs, tandem axle, fully
> enclosed.
>
> Thanks for the kind words regarding the mission trip to Florida. There
are
> thousands of elderly folks and migrant worker families made homeless and
now
> living out of their cars &/or in makeshift shelters built from scrounged
> debris in the areas hit by these hurricanes! We're looking at a
> humanitarian crisis of huge proportions right here in the United States
and
> the press is completely ignoring it! At times, it was hard to believe we
> were still in the United States.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lou Rosenberg" <lsr3 at MAIL.nyu.edu>
> To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 11:26 AM
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes
> 22
>
>
> > Roger,
> > Much thanks for your description of the construction of the hull
> > and rub rail. I have to re bed my trailer U bolt and have had to
> > remove some of the screws holding the cabin liner. Any words of
> > advice on how to get to that U bolt ?
> >
> > On the blewskies site the photo of your gold Astro with your son
> > next to it.. I have the identical vehicle do you tow the boat with
> > the Astro? How does it do uphill??
> > Although I have the tow haul pkg I plan to add the tranny cooler
> > when I get my hitch early in 05. Rick C helped me get my trailer
> > from LI to Bklyn in August so I avoided a trailer expense this season.
> >
> >
> > Some one who thought they could attach some sort of bumper to the
> > front of my R22 ( 81 hull) left 4 ugly holes on the topside of the
> > deck just above the rubrail. I used polyester resin on the the holes
> > and then gelcoated them now in the process of fairing and finishing.
> > I need to change my rub rail next year but I dont think its leaking..
> > My poptop leak was from the hatch fasteners which are now being
> > rebedded. Just gelcoated and reinforced my hatch.
> > Someone had stepped on the leading edge and cracked it. my boat was
> > badly abused and neglected.
> > thanks again for that great description of the way to fix the rub
rail!!
> > Lou
> >
> >
> >
> > >Steve,
> > >
> > >Assuming your 1983 hull is constructed like my 1976 hull, the hull/deck
> > >flange design resembles something like the lid of a shoebox. The deck
> has a
> > >downward flange that overlaps the upper edge of the hull. The space in
> > >between the two components was filled with some sort of sealant & then
> the
> > >two were mechanically joined with pop rivets on about 18 inch centers.
> > >Finally, the rub rail was installed on the outside of the hull to hide
> the
> > >seam. On the inside, the cabin liner also has a downward flange all
> around
> > >the perimeter. This cabin liner flange is nonstructural & there should
> be a
> > >decorative black vinyl molding thru bolted to the flange in order to
> cover
> > >the hull/deck joint. In order to inspect the hull/deck flange, this
> > >decorative molding will have to be removed. When you remove any pieces
> of
> > >this molding, be certain to mark the location it came from as well as
> which
> > >end was facing towards the bow because these pieces/parts are not
> > >interchangeable.
> > >
> > >The shoebox type of hull/deck flange is a pretty good design & really
> > >shouldn't cause a problem; but, I suppose it's possible the hull/deck
> flange
> > >has developed a leak. However, before removing the rub rail, I would
> remove
> > >the decorative molding up in the V-berth area. If the hull/deck joint
is
> > >leaking; then, the most likely source is one of the pop rivets. With
the
> > >decorative molding removed, you will be able to pinpoint the leak.
> Assuming
> > >the leak really is a pop rivet, you will have to remove the section of
> rub
> > >rail and drill out the pop rivet. Then, I would cover the inside and
> > >outside of the pop rivet hole with a HD tape like duck tape. Take a
> > >hypoderdermic syringe and inject as much unthickened epoxy as you can
> into
> > >the pop rivet hole. Let the epoxy cure, drill out the hole, put in a
new
> > >pop rivet (or machine screw & nut), and reassemble the whole thing.
> > >
> > >However, it's also quite likely that once you remove the decorative
> molding,
> > >you will see the hull/deck joint is not the source of the leak. To
> locate
> > >the leak, seal yourself up inside the cabin. Have an assistant spray
> water
> > >on various thru bolted fittings on the foredeck and cabin top one at a
> time
> > >for several minutes each while you inspect for leakage inside the
cabin.
> > >It's quite likely the source of the leak is something like a deck
cleat,
> > >cabin port, or rail stanchion. It's also possible you have a crack in
> the
> > >foredeck in the nonskid or the toe rail and the water is running along
> the
> > >inside of the cabin liner for some distance before dripping out where
you
> > >observe it.
> > >
> > >Tiny leaks like you have can be drive you nuts trying to track them
down!
> > >Good luck.
> > >
> > >Roger Pihlaja
> > >S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "steve" <stevej78 at comcast.net>
> > >To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2004 11:27 PM
> > >Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Leak on port side bow area of the 1983 Rhodes
22
> > >
> > >
> > >Roger,
> > >
> > >Good evening,
> > >
> > >I 'm a Rhodes 22 owner with a 1983 Rhodes. I live in Bellevue, WA., in
> the
> > >Seattle area.
> > >
> > >There is a leak on the port side inside the v berth of the boat.
> > >
> > >It's a small leak in the in the berth that weeps from the on the port
> side
> > >seams where the upper deck and hull meet..
> > >
> > >This leak seeps down along the port seam to the wooden support rail
which
> is
> > >fiber glassed in the bow. The water continues along the rail to the
end
> of
> > >the rail where now the exposed wood shows dampness.
> > >
> > >Would the rub rail and the black holding device for the rub rail be
> removed
> > >off around the nose of the boat and using a sealant calk the joint to
> solve
> > >the leak?
> > >
> > >Please advise in stopping this leak.
> > >
> > >Thank you for your patience in reading this long email.
> > >
> > >
> > >Steve Jacobs
> > >
> > >Bellevue, WA
> > >
> > >Stevej78 at comcast.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
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> > >
> > >
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>
>
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