[Rhodes22-list] Slim--Lots of Stuff

[Bill Effros]

Slim,

I've got lots of stuff on Mast Raising.  All my files on mast lowering have the word WRONG all caps in the file name, so I won't send it along.

Following is Stan's stuff that I was in the process of modifying.  I felt you needed a different set of much more explicit instructions the first time you raise the mast, or if you just raise and lower the mast once in a blue moon.  Since I fit into that category, I decided to write more explicit instructions for my boat, based on Stan's template.  That follows.

Then I decided that since I wasn't going to raise or lower the mast the year I was writing the instructions it made sense to wait until I was doing the job to refresh my memory about how to write the instructions.  I am still waiting.

I do think this is important, and I will contribute, if you take anything from my list and others you think is useful, I will help you edit the whole thing.

After the Mast Hoisting information is a lot of Stan stuff (Brad--no need to read--no embedded politics--well, almost none) I am posting for those who may not have access to originals.  A lot of it is useful for unpacking and packing boats for travel.

The top note is for myself.  Elton coils shrouds and holds them with break-away tape at the beginning of the mast raising process.  It keeps them from getting snagged when you have more shrouds than hands, and it is so elegant!  (Just like Elton.)  The tape breaks when the mast reaches a certain height in such a way that the remaining tape does not wind up at the top of the shroud where you can't reach it--at least that's what happens when Elton does it.  I've got the idea, but I can't quite make it work for me.  Hence my note.

The instructions follow:

OPERATION OF THE MAST HOIST


(When and how do you coil excess shrouds with break-away tape?)

1. Undo mast securing lines (per instruction booklet) and stays and connect the back stays to their respective chain plates.

2. Roll the mast bundle aft on the Carrier roller until the hole in the base of the mast aligns with the hole in the mast step and install the mast bolt. (Make certain that the sliding hatch is back in its closed position and that the pop top slider has been left in its up position on the mast.)

3. Connect the upper shrouds to their respective gunwale chain plates.

4. Connect an aluminum extender to each forward lower shroud turnbuckle and the other end of the extender to the respective forward lower cabin top chain plates. Here is where your cooperation is needed: Take the slack out of each of the forward lower shrouds by closing up their turnbuckles AND THEN MEASURE THE TURNBUCKLE OPENING FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.

5. Mount the crane onto its mounting block on the center forward cabin top, using the two 1/4" bolts stored in the base of the hoist. Pivot the crane up and aft and its rocker bottom, and gravity, will keep it self-supported while you extend and secure the winch line to the bow deck docking cleat. (Work clear of the Crane path so that should it accidentally come down it will not hit you in the head.)

6. Connect the two aft lower shrouds to the two brackets-near the top aft side of the crane.

7. With all stays now connected and all turnbuckles pointing in the proper direction and all kinks out of the wires and all life out of harm's way, turn the winch handle. Mast raising should be relatively easy and get easier and easier as the mast goes through its raising arc. If you feel any resistance, stop at once. You may find a stay hooked onto something. The cross-over lateral stay stability system (the lower shrouds providing lateral guidance at the lower end of the raising arc and upper shrouds taking over at the upper end of the raising arc) should keep the mast bundle from moving too far to either side. If the mast bundle has excessive sideways swinging, turn the winch handle in the opposite direction to lower the bundle and re-check to see that you have proceeded correctly.

8. With the mast bundle fully vertical, the crane will be close to the deck. Disconnect the aluminum extenders from both forward lower shroud turnbuckles and connect these turnbuckles to their respective cabin top chain plates, adjusting turnbuckles to remove shroud slack.

9. Step 8 will result in the mast being self-sustaining and the crane can be removed. This clears the way for the jib stay to be connected to its bow chain plate and the connection of the two aft lower shrouds to their respective cabin top chain plates.

>From this point on, setting up rigging as per your Rhodes Tips on Rigging and Sailing booklet. You can leave the carrier on the transom and store the crane in the cabin. However, if you have no reason to take them with you, it is more comfortable to leave them with your trailer.



In lowering the mast, the process is reversed. However you must make use of the referenced dimension of the two forward lower turnbuckles you recorded on the way up. Reset the turnbuckles to this figure or slightly greater so that there will be no over-tightening of these stays as the mast reaches the bottom of its lowering arc. Remember that the mast step is attached in a break-a-way manner so that damage would not be done to the deck should you drive off, forgetting to take down the mast before trees or wires do. This being the construction technique, lowering a mast with over-tightened stays could cause the mast step to be pulled out.



Take you time. Practice makes perfect. You will eventually get all this down to a 15 or 20 minute operation. Lots of luck.





TIPS ON RIGGING AND SAILING YOUR NEW RHODES Z2






UNPACKING:


Use the stern ladder for easy boarding. Undo the three or four lines holding the mast to the boat: a line to the bow pulpit, a line to the stern rail*, one or two safety lines to the bow cleat and mast step, and lines or tape holding the spreaders. Undo all mast packing tape except: tape around the jib at its grommet that keeps the jib from unfurling, tape holding the jib sheets to the furled jib, tape holding the jib furling line alongside the bottom of the jib furling tube, and any tape or lines that are holding the jib furling tube alongside the mast. The point is that you will be raising the mast, jib and boom together as one unit, so you want them bundled up as one unit. If your spars came from the plant bundled up like this, do not undo them. However, any stays that are taped or tied must be freed, even if this requires undoing some of your mast/jib/boom bundle connectors.




In the port shelf along the "V" berth is the traveler bar and in the sliding drawer under the seat, remaining hardware and other surprises. (?)




PREPARATIONS FOR RAISING THE MAST

Four shrouds get connected to the deck before the mast is raised:the two forward lowers to keep the mast from continuing moving aft after it is perpendicular,and the two upper shrouds to keep the mast from moving sideways, as it is being raised. If the mast has never been raised before, all turnbuckles should be opened so that only about 1/4" of thread projects into the barrel, as you do not want the shrouds to be short, and stop your mast raising part way up. The turnbuckle ends of the forward lower shrouds connect to the forward chain plates on the cabin roof. These chain plates are forward of the mast pivot point. The two upper shrouds, coming from the ends of the spreaders, connect to the two chain plates on the gunnels. These chain plates are in line with the mast pivot point. The aft lower shrouds cannot be connected to their chain plates aft of the mast pivot point before the mast is raised because they will not reach. If your mast was not pre-rigged at the factory you will first have to assemble the stays and spreaders to the mast but it is all very simple and obvious. (With mast hoist see obverse instructions.)


In fact, it is all very straight forward and you will do everything very quickly the second time around: untie the mast, move it forward so you can put the mast bolt thru the mast step, connect the two forward and two upper shrouds. You are now ready for help. (Psychiatric or, better, someone with brawn instead of brain.)


Before raising the mast run through this quick check list: 


1. Is the pop top slider in the mast track? 

(This slider can only be inserted from the bottom of the mast and who would want to lower and raise the mast again?)

2. Are the four turnbuckles pointing to the bow so they will pivot up easily as the mast is lifted?. (If they face aft or outward, they may bend as the shrouds become taut, and this is not covered by your warranty.) 

  3.. Check the remaining stays. (They should be draped over the boat, or taped to the mast, in such a way as to not catch on the trailer or hardware while raising.) 
  1.. Is the upper end of the jib furling tube resting on one of the upper shrouds? (There is enough play in the jib stay to allow this, and while you can skip this, it is good technique.) 
  2.. A hole in the disc of the furling drum (at the bottom of the jib tube) should be fast-pinned into the ~é__'U" bracket near the base of the mast. This helps keep the jib tube and mast together while raising. Look to see that there are no remaining tapes or lines around the mast that you will not be able to reach once the mast is up. And finally check to see that you are not straddling any of the connected stays that could come up and give you such a pain.





RAISING THE MAST



If you are by yourself, we find it best to follow these steps:


1. On factory pre-rigged IMF masts the boom is vertical alongside the mast with its goose neck connected to the boom slider. One end of the topping lift line is tied to the straight, rotating tang on the outer end of the boom. The other end of the topping lift line is on a mast cleat. Uncleat the topping lift line from its mast cleat and lower the boom. Temporarily re-cleat the topping lift line when the boom is about horizontal and feed the free end of this line thru the small block just aft of the aft lower port cabin top chain plate and then back to the small cam cleat on the port, aft end of the cabin top. Permanently uncleat the topping lift line from the mast cleat and use the topping lift's cam cleat to secure the boom in its horizontal position. Check it out: The topping lift should be running from the straight tang at the end of the boom, up to the top of the mast, through two sheaves, down passing the aft side of the port spreader to its block on the cabin top and then to its terminal cam cleat atop the port aft cabin top.


2. If your boat is factory pre-rigged, the double back stays are connected to the top of the mast and have adjusters at their lower ends. Untwist these two stays so that each runs cleanly to its app}opriate transom corner chain plate. Fasten the bottom hole in each adjuster to the top hole in its chain plate with clevis and cotter pins, or fast pins. (Have the open side of the adjusters facing inward just for the aesthetics of it.) If the back stays seems very slack, lower each back stay an equal amount of holes in each adjuster or keep the difference, in the holes lowered, to one.




TUNING THE MAST


The biggest objection to IMF masts is that they sing when the wind passes their slot under certain conditions. Tuning the mast does not improve this singing nor is tuning a critical operation and it can be done single handed. What you want is a perpendicular mast, a straight mast and a non-sagging jib luff. This will give you a great performing boat that you may be able to tune even further for a greater performing boat, but then you would be going beyond the ambitions of this booklet.


What you need first is the traveler bar. Insert the traveler bar into the sockets already attached to each backstay. You want to orient the installation of bar and sockets so that, the cam cleat on the fiddler block on the car on the bar, is facing the bow when the fiddler block is standing up. (You can do that.) Line up the holes in the sockets with the holes in the bar, and push in fast pins.


We have made the next step idiot proof. Not you. We refer to our pre-rigger. One back stay has a block attached to it; the other has a block with a becket (a loop at its bottom to attach a line to). The double back stays can be attached to the top of the mast so that the stay with the block with becket is on the port side, or vice-versa, and this would affect on which side of the transom the cleat for the tension line should be. We would not want you to have to lower the mast on our account, so there is a tension line cleat on both corners of the transom, and only one will be used.


Take the backstay tension line (about 1/4" X 14') and tie it to the becket on that block attached to one of the back stays. (A bowline knot will do. We use this knot because it is easy to take apart and is the only knot we know.) Run the line across to, and uD thru the block on the other back stay, then across to and down thru the sheave in the block with becket on the first back stay, and then down to the cleat on the transom. Make this line good and hand tight. This draws the back stays together, which helps secure the traveler bar and, at the same time, makes the jib stay the way it should be; taut and unbending.


These are a lot of words on our part, but with one pull of a line, you have just tuned the two back stays and the jib stay. Now tackle the two upper shrouds. Hold the wire in one hand and turn the turnbuckle barrel clockwise to take up any slack. You are looking for a perpendicular mast. Adjusting for an equal amount of exposed thread into the port and starboard turnbuckle barrels, is a good starting guide. Hand tighten. Do not use tools. A Naval Academy son of one owner, adjusted dad's stays with a pliers and screw driver until the cabin top changed shape. Remember, beware of experts. Use your own common sense. The stays are there to keep the mast up, not drive it into the boat. When wind hits the sail and the mast starts to move, the stays will automatically become as tight as necessary to take the boat with them.


All that remains are the four lower shrouds. Take out their slack to give you a straight mast, port to starboard and bow to stern. Once you are satisfied with your mast tune-up job, lock it in with cotter or ring pins thru the holes near the ends of the threaded terminals in the turnbuckle barrels. This stops someone from undoing the turnbuckles without first removing these safety pins. Stays are twisted wires and they have a tendency to want to untwist. Boats at moorings are constantly in motion and this continually varies the pressure on the stays providing them with the opportunity to back out of their turnbuckles. Pinning, wiring or taping the stays and turnbuckles will discourage this. This precaution is not necessary if you trail and are tuned in to this possibility.


There is one pain in the neck adjustment you probably won't have to make. If the performance of your boat leads you to believe changing the rake of the mast is necessary, there is an adjuster at the top of the jib stay that will let you do this. Shortening the jib stay decreases weather helm and vice-versa. Of course this means lowering the mast. The good news is that once all the one time adjustments are made you never have to do them again.




CONNECTING AND OPERATING THE POP TOP

To proceed in more comfort you may want to raise your pop top now. Whether your boat comes factory pre-rigged or not, the pop top will not be connected to the mast. The one cardinal rule you must remember is that THE POP TOP MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM ITS MAST SLIDER BEFORE THE MAST IS RAISED OR LOWERED. Confucius says you can not pivot around two points simultaneously. If you forget, you will damage the pop top or the mast, or both; not beyond repair of the boat, but perhaps beyond repair of a captain's esteem.


On the aft side of the mast, below the boom, is this pop top slider -with a bracket attached to it. Pull back on the spring pin that is on the starboard part of this slider and the slider will lower on the mast until its bracket is in plane with the small fitting on the front sloping edge of the pop top. Using the small amount of play that is in the pop top, align all holes so that you can insert the supplied clevis pin or bolt. The pop top is now connected.


The pop top must be operated in the proper sequence: Unlock the sliding hatch. Slide it as far forward as it will ao. This allows you to remove the hinged companionway and to step into the cabin. You can now remove the "Nautical Club" that secures the pop top in its down position when you are away from the boat and concerned about security. Place both hands on the stainless steel horizontal bar in front of you (this is the upper pop top inverted "U" section) and raise this bar until it snaps into its up position. If you hear one locking click, (both pins locking simultaneously) take an "A". If you hear one click quickly followed by a second click, that is a passable "B'§. If there is a delay between the sounds of the upper pop top arm clicking into the lower arms it means you have raised the top unevenly (side to side) and this may result in failures all around. You can test the up position by pulling down on the cross bar to be certain that it will not come back down.


With the aft end of the pop top raised and secure, walk further into the cabin. Place one hand on the raised crossbar and the other under the front end of the pop top. With the cross bar hand pushing slightly aft, raise the front end of the top with the other hand until the snap pin on the pop top slider engages its hole in the mast. Again test for security by trying to pull the front end of the top back down (you can also feel to see that the pin has gone fully into its hole.) These steps are only guides and you may develop your own style that better suits your own physical attributes.

Lowering the pop top must also be done in the proper sequence. Support the front end of the pop top with one hand and pull out the pop top/mast slider pin. CAUTION: Pulling the pin that connects the pop top to the pop top slider, causes the boat to blow up to keep this feature from enemy hands, or at best causes the pop top to fall on your head. So be certain you are pulling the pin that holds the pop top slider in its mast hole. Spread both hands to lower the front of the pop top down the mast slot. Step aft and place one hand on the cross bar and release one lower arm snap-pin with the free hand, allowing the top to lower slightly. Then switch hands and pull the opposite snap-pin. Then, with both hands spread on the cross bar, lower the top evenly.


For positive security when you are away from the boat, hook on the Rhodes "Nautical Club". Then proceed with the normal closing up of the cabin: Insert the companionway. Pivot up its top half. Move the sliding hatch aft. Push in the sliding hatch lock. Go home. Boats are notoriously easy to break into and therefore, in most mariners, seldom are and the Nautical Club may not be needed. Check out the history of your port.




SETTING THE GENOA (and SALLY MAIN) FURLING LINES

On factory pre-rigged boats, the Sally main furling line is already installed thru the boom. The jib furling line is already attached, coiled and taped at the bottom of the furling tube. Your job is to untape and uncoil it and feed it thru the fairlead on the bow deck, then thru the fairleads on the front and mid-starboard edge cabin top and then to the furling cam cleat on the starboard aft cabin top edge. Take the slack out of this line and secure it in its cleat.






SETTING THE JIB SHEETS

An extra big jib sail is called a genoa because its origin had something to do with Genoa, Italy. " Main" for the sail that goes up the mast makes sense. The name we gave to our main, "Sally Sail" means "bursting forth, witty, imaginative, off the beaten (sail) track". All appropriate. But "sheets" for the ropes that position the sails; I suppose that came about because sails looked like sheets before we named them genoa, spinnaker and Sally. The Rhodes has a jib sheet, about 65', and a main sheet, about 35', both in beautiful colors of your choice in a 3/8" braided style.


If your boat has not arrived with its genoa jib sheet already attached, take this 65' coil of line from your parts, uncoil it, put the two ends side by side and work your way along the doubled line to locate its mid point. Insert the mid point of the folded-in-half line thru the large exposed grommet of the furled genoa sail so that you have a loop of line on one side of the grommet and two equal legs of line on the other side of the grommet. Insert the two ends of the line thru the loop and pull them to close the loop. You now have two equal lengths of 3/8" line firmly attached to your jib. Coil this line (for ease of handling) and wrap the two legs about six clockwise turns around the sail in anticipation of the looseness of the initial furling of the sail on its tube.

Release the jib furling line from its cabin top cleat so the jib tube is free to rotate. Pull the jib sheets to undo the six turns you just took on the tube. This action will rotate the tube causing the furling line to partially wrap around its drum. With the jib sheets no longer around the sail, but none of the sail yet unfurled, again lock the furling line in its cleat. Untwist the two jib sheets so that you have a port and starboard sheet and run outside the upper shrouds, thru genoa cars on the genoa tracks and clockwise around respective winches and into their clam cleats. Excess jib sheet can always be tucked into the coaming compartment below the winch, because neatness counts.


You can now test the furling operation. Free that genoa sheet that is on the windward side, (the side the wind is coming from). You do not want this line in its clam cleat, around its winch, or under a crews' end. Uncleat the jib furling line and hold onto it with a very light pressure. Free the leeward jib sheet (the one on the side where the wind is going away from the boat), and start pulling it. The jib sail will begin unfurling, the furling line will begin furling, and the trailer may begin rolling. So if it i8 a windy day, testing for a storm jib size will suffice.


You can lock the furling tube at any sail area size you want merely by putting the furling line back in its cleat. You will not use this line again until you want to change sail size or put the sail away; in which case you either head into the wind or release the appropriate jib sheet so the sail can swing out into the wind, and then pull in on the furling line. If the line does not respond look for a fouled furling line or, a sheet still not free from a winch or, a clam cleat or, a coaming box or, a crew's part. When putting the sail away for the day you may want to keep a light pressure on the leeward sheet to insure the sail furls neatly on the tube.






SETTING THE MAIN SHEET

If your boat did not come with its main sheet pre-rigged, do not be alarmed. If our PhD owners can thread this line, anyone can. At the aft end of the boom is a second rotating tang, this one with a bend in it. Affixed to this tang is the boom block with becket. (If the boom block is not on this tang, take it from your supplies and attach it to this bent tang.) In your supplies is the second 3/8" braided line (about 35' long). This is your main sheet and it begins its journey with a bowline (or other knot) at the becket on the boom block. From there it goes down to the fiddle block on the traveler bar and first passes thru the upper sheave of the fiddle block entering from the aft side of the block. (Tip: hold the fiddle block up vertically from its limp position on the traveler bar car so you can see things more clearly.) The main sheet then heads upwards to the boom block, passing through its sheave entering from the bow side, then back down to the fiddle block's large and lower sheave entering from the aft side and exiting through the cam cleat affixed to the fiddle block. Take up the slack and you should have three parallel lines between the boom block and the fiddle block and the boom pulled in and at rest over the center of the cockpit.



THE SALLY SAIL MAIN

Pre-rigged boats come with the main sail in the mast and the boom connected to the mast. The end of the main sail furling line comes out of a slot in the bottom of the boom, just aft of the cabin. The outhaul line is blue and provides a two to one mechanical advantage by starting at the fitting at the end of the boom, passing under the sheave on the outhaul car riding in the boom sail track, going through a block on the clew of the main sail and then back under the same sheave on the out haul car, then turning down through a block at the aft end of the boom and then being tied to form a loop handle. The boom has a series of cleats for locking the furling and outhaul lines, both to secure the desired sail size, set the wanted sail shape and take up excess line. With the main outhaul line passing through the outhaul car twice, friction permits you to position this car at any position along the boom depending on main sail size. (A step you should take for best performance.)


The difference in operating the main sail (as compared to the furling jib) is that, when the main sail is pulled out, the furling line is not held. This makes it possible to go from the stored position to full main in two seconds flat. If only a portion of the main is to be employed, the furling line can be pre-locked with a pre-set length of furling line on the boom cleat. Putting the sail away is just as quick. The outhaul line is uncleated and left free while the furling line is pulled as rapidly as you wish.


Tip: In light airs the furling main can be set or stored regardless of the boat's approach to the wind. However, in heavy airs, the friction of the sail against the mast slot makes the direction of the boat, in relation to the direction of the wind, less inconsequential. So it is good practice to turn the boat into the wind (as you would have to do with a conventional sail anyway) at such an angle that the boom is slightly off to starboard, so the sail exits or enters the mast slot freely.


The topping lift is integral to the Innermast Furling system and therefore conveniently controlled from the cockpit. If you furled the main and had no topping lift, the boom would fall on your head. So the topping lift should be set to support the boom before you pull the furling line. On the other hand, if you left the boom supported by the topping lift, the mainsheet would not control a full mainsail shape since it would be acting directly against the topping lift. On the other hand, when using a half main sail the topping lift supports the weight of the boom. So when and whether you use the topping lift or, slacken it completely, depends: Full main, slacken it. Furled main, set it for shape wanted. Putting main away, use it to support boom so you don't get a headache.


Now that you know all this, it is all very easy: Uncleat the furling and outhaul lines. Pull out the sail with the outhaul line. Release the topping lift. Want to sail with a shortened main? Move the outhaul car to a more forward position. Pull the furling line for the desired sail area. Adjust the outhaul line for desired sail shape. Set topping lift for best shortened sail shape. Sailing to dock or to put the sail away for the day? Set topping lift line so boom stays horizontal as sail disappears.



OPERATING THE DIAMONDBOARD

The Diamondboard has a completely different shape and draws 4' down. Either style has a depth control line that locks in the servo cam cleat on the cockpit side of the cabin companionway.


Centerboards and centerboard trunks are pre-painted with anti-fouling paint at the factory. If you sail in waters that require yearly bottom paint, the Diamondboard can be painted with anti-fouling paint while the boat is up in slings and the board fully down. But the interior of the centerboard trunk is best swabbed with anti-fouling paint by unscrewing the trunk cap and removing the board. (With your Rhodes this can be done with the boat on its trailer. See maintenance section).


When the boat is in forward motion, the board freely swings up if you hit bottom or strike a submerged object. The board should be raised if the boat is forced backwards in shallow water since it will not pivot forward. The board should be left in the up position when the boat is in the water at rest or under motor. In our "Preparation To Launch" coverage, the board must be locked in the uP Position since the boat will be going backwards off the trailer.






OPERATING THE RUDDER

If your tiller has a hiking stick, lift this extension arm out of its locking clip on the tiller, rotate it and extend its length so that its ball end reaches the port or starboard friction lock on the stern rail. Push the hiking stick shaft, just below the ball end, into the tiller friction lock and turn the ball again to lock-in the hiking stick length wanted to either keep the rudder blade from turning during launching or keep the boat on course with no hands.


The rudder blade is controlled by two lines. One comes off the leading edge of the blade and up behind a clutch plate on the front edge of the rudder head. When in use this line should be turned back after coming through this plate so it passes in back of the plate again. Tension is applied to the line by adjusting a wing nut on the plate and this keeps the blade in the down position against the flowing water pressure, yet allows it to freely pivot up if it hits bottom or a trap line, etc. Like the centerboard it does not pivot forward, therefore with the boat moving backwards during the launch you want the blade to be in its up position. So release the tension on the clutch line and pull on the second control line. This line comes from the aft edge of the bladesand goes through a cleat on the aft edge of the rudder head. The blade can be raised past the horizontal so it can be completely out of the water when not in use.


If you find the need to do any extensive sculling, you will probably find the rudder works best at 30 to 45 degrees, and you can obtain this setting by employing both control lines.



OPERATING THE MOTOR LIFT

For ease of placing the motor onto the motor lift, lower the lift. Center the motor on the motor bracket pad and tighten the motor clamps. AND PUT A SAFETY LINE FROM 'I'HE MOTOR TO THE TRANSOM EYE in case the motor clamps loosen or the outboard lift has a failure. Prepare and test the motor's operation before the launch. (It is worth a test start, even if it is out of the water since you will turn it off just the moment it shows you it is willing to start.)


Most motors have adjustments that will let you set the proper prop angle, and let you put tension on the steering shaft so the motor will not wander if you elect to steer with the boat's tiller. Hopefully you have selected a motor that has a series of stops that allow you to tilt the motor when not in use. Motors that have only a single tilt position may not provide enough clearance to clear the water with the lift in the up position without your first having to rotate the motor head sideways.


With the motor having been tested, secured and roaring to go, turn it off and pull the out board lift control line so the trolley/motor assembly locks in its raised position. This control line can be locked at any point along its lift range so as soon as you launch you can lower the motor for use in even shallow areas.






PREPARING THE TRAILER FOR LAUNCHING

If you have gotten this far and the sun has gone down, you might want to put the launch off 'til tomorrow. Seriously, folks, you will find you can get through all of the above verbiage doing it yourself, in about twenty minutes. If you did not have the mast hoist, you may have had a little assistance for the mast raising part of the operation. It is amazingly easy and fast to do everything we have been covering - the second time around. We are just going into all these details now so you thoroughly understand all operations and are prepared to handle all contingencies, if any should arise when you mislay this booklet.


So let's examine the trailer. If you are not as lazy as this writer, you should, as a matter of good practice, use a portable grease gun to check your wheel bearings. Add grease until the excess is visible on the inner side of the hub. Older trailers have a pressure plate you can see move towards you when no additional grease is required. Hot trailer wheels in cold water cause air in the bearing chambers to contract and form a vacuum which can draw in the sea water. So air around the bearings has to be fully displaced by grease.


Before you forget, disconnect the trailer wire harness from the car. You have to do this anyway if you are using the extension tongue. But you should disconnect the harness plug even when not extending the trailer because the trailer lights will be submerged under water. And when you put your foot on the break to keep from submerging the car, the trailer brake lights would go on, heat up and also break.

You will also have to disconnect the chains and the trailer's brake hose line and the brake's emergency hook if you plan to use the trailer extension tongue. You could use the car to extend the tongue but I prefer to disconnect the trailer from the car and move the car far enough forward to extend the trailer tongue by hand. In most cases you will find yourself using the extension because most ramps are not very steep and it is nice not to have to bury the rear of the car in the water. Pull the safety pins from the bottoms of the two heavy pins that secure the extension tongue and, using their handles, remove these two heavy pins. During launching only one pin need be reinserted in the holes at the end of the extended tongue. It is very easy to do this single handed because one of your jobs is to keep the extension bar well greased. Lack of lubrication could result in a stuck extension tongue.


Back up the car (or roll the boat forward) to re-engage the trailer.


Three more trailer steps: 



  1.. Unsnap the winch strap from the bow eye. 



  1.. Unlock and slide the trailer bow arm (the horizontal bar that has the bow guide on its end) as far toward the car as it goes. 



  1.. Crank up (or tilt up) the trailer jack wheel as far as it goes.


The next steps depend on whether you have a helper, whether the helper will be on board or dockside, whether there is indeed a float or dock along the ramp, or whether you are accepting the challenge of launching single handed.


If you are launching single handed, attach a slack line of about 25 feet from the boat's bow eye to the trailer bow post and be prepared to get wet (unless you can attach this slack line to a dock instead of the trailer) and go to the next paragraph. If you are launching with a helper on board, put that crew member on board now and forget about any retrieving lines. If you are launching with a helper off the boat, use a 30 to 50 foot line (your two standard 25' docking lines temporarily joined together will do) with one end to the bow docking cleat and the other end to an aft docking cleat. Use the aft cleat on the side that will be against the float or the dock your helper will be walking onto and, if the situation allows, plan to use a dockside that will have the wind keep the boat off the dock. Instruct your helper to hold this endless guide line firmly so that by pulling with one hand or the other there will be complete control to draw the boat alongside the dock once it is free of the trailer. This idea of the boat being free of the trailer is important because nervous helpers tend to prematurely pull the guide line before the boat has completely cleared the submerged trailer causing the bow of the boat to be picked up by the trailer as the trailer is being pulled up the ramp. On the other hand, the pressure on the line from the momentum of a launched boat could be considerable, taking a lightweight helper right off the end of the dock for an early swim. This can be avoided if the helper is aware that the line can be dropped over a dock cleat or pile if the pressure feels too great.


With the continuous control line connected to both ends of the boat, the rope holder being pulled at full gallop along the dock and the continuous line being dropped over a piling just before the helper makes a big splash, the operation will still come to a happy ending.

Having chosen your mode of launching and taken the corresponding steps, it is time for the final check list: Are there any overhead wires between you and the water? (It is a good idea to check this before raising the mast.) Is the centerboard locked in the up position? Check to see that the ladder, rudder and motor are all up. Also, fenders may very well be appropriate depending on dock construction. Look to see that no other boat is planning to come in while you are going out because you are about to participate in one of the fastest launchings on record.


With all systems go, slowly start backing toward the ramp. Aim between docksides if a crew is onboard. Aim close to a dockside if a helper is walking alongside the boat with control line in hand. When the boat reaches the water's edge, the landside helper will be walking onto the dock, or the onboard crew will be bracing for the launch. We use the word,"bracing" because once at the water's edge you will pick up speed until the stern of the boat starts to raise, and then you will apply the brakes (with a reasonable pressure). The trailer will stop and the boat will continue. Drive car and trailer back up the ramp just as soon as the bow of the boat clears the trailer. We suggest this early trailer withdrawal so the boat is not drawn back onto the trailer when the dockside helper prematurely coaxes the boat to the dock. This is not a requirement when a crew member is on board since the motor will be lowered and started (or started and lowered), and the boat will be under its own control. And this is positively not a requirement if you are launching single handed because as soon as the boat leaves the trailer you will want to leave the car and take the bow line off the trailer to guide the boat to the dock.


If the boat is coming out the same day or the trailer is to stay in the ramp area and not going back onto public roads, you may want to leave the tongue extended to save some duplicating efforts later. To put the tongue in, jack the trailer off the car. Pull the extension tongue's locking pin and slide the tongue aft. If you are lucky, its aft end will go right into its socket on the trailer cross member. Otherwise, a sideways nudging may be necessary. The aft end of the tongue must be in its socket for the two trailer frame holes to align with the two holes at the forward end of the extension tongue. With the holes aligned, insert the locking pins and their safety pins. A good way to frustrate potential trailer snatchers is to leave these two pins out. They will discover their mistake at a busy intersection as the extension tongue and trailer part company; encouraging the snatchers to give up the whole idea as they pull a 10' clanking bar down the street.


If trailerable boat races start and end on land, the Rhodes wins. To review: Decide if your ramp requires the extension tongue. Decide if you are launching single handed, or with crew on board or with a helper on the dock. Disconnect wires, hoses and winch strap. Check to see that the centerboard is locked in the up position and that the rudder, ladder and motor are all up. Back your rig down the ramp, picking up speed until the transom starts to float. Put on the brakes. Call the Coast Guard if you forgot the trailer safety line or the onboard crew can't sail, motor or swim or the endless line takes the dockside helper beyond the 3 mile limit.

-14-









TIPS ON SAILING

We thought we might take you on a hypothetical sail that might prove partly a review and partly an introduction to some partly new thinking. We will consider light airs and heavy airs and let you interpolate for conditions in-between. We will touch on tacking, running, reaching, coming about, jibing, and showing off.


Light Airs:


Put up the pop top, particularly if you have guests. The up top will not hinder your sailing or your visibility and actually makes it easier to walk to the lounging foredeck. Lower the centerboard. The lighter the airs, the slower your boat moves thru the water, so the larger the fin area required to counteract slippage (remember the glider). When ready, take out sails without considering wind direction. Set the main outhaul line to allow a fullness in the sail shape (large draft). Release the topping lift. Use a genoa size iib with genoa cars forward to allow a fullness in genoa shape. Use the cockpit cushions and encourage your relaxed crew to arrange themselves so the boat heels. This hull angle reduces wetted surface for a little more speed.


Like a new car, there is a feel to your new boat that will soon become second nature. But while you are making yourself at home on this stranger, we suggest that you restrict yourself to sailing on light air days (in the up to 10 knot wind vicinity).


Heavy Airs:


Compared to motor cruisers, sailboats are built very close to the water (have a low freeboard). Sailboats with commodious interiors at the expense of lower freeboard, do not perform as well as lower profile designs. Wind against the sail makes the boat go and wind against the hull can make the boat not go. So depending on its size, weight, freeboard, etc., a sailboat has a practical wind speed limitation. With the Rhodes, this happens when the winds approach 30 knots. Some sailers use the length of the boat as a guide to its safe top wind speed. This does not mean the boat will not go like and with the wind in 50 knots, but tacking would be impossible and control would be limited.


In 15 to 25 knot winds we suggest you consider sailing with the pop top down to cut the hull's wind resistance, and with the boom lowered to its bottom hole to increase stability. The boat is like a see-saw. The higher the sail on the mast (the further out on the see-saw), the more the sail can pull the boat over. Pulling out the spring pin on the boom slider and lowering the boom to the lower mast hole for this slider, automatically lowers the main sail without altering sail area. This can be done with the sail in or out and with the boat at rest or under power or under sail. Under sail, it is easier to do this with the boat pointed into the wind and with the main sheet slack. With the boom at a lower level, the topping lift will require additional slack.

Lowering the boom changes two forces. Like a person on a see-saw moving in towards the fulcrum becoming less effective in raising the other side, the same size sail moving closer to the deck loses some of its ability to heel the boat. However the total energy striking the sail has not changed and must be used up some other way, so the boat goes faster. When the boat goes faster, it requires less underwater fin area (remember the jet and its smaller wing span). So you raise the centerboard and this cuts down the overall wetted surface (friction) and the boat goes faster. When the boat goes faster, you need even less centerboard. This cycle feeds on itself so you will find, many times, that you do not need the board at all.


When the boat goes faster, it tends to lift out of the water. (High speed motorboats sometimes leave the water.) This reduces wetted surface even further and happens more readily if the boat is kept flat. In light airs at slow boat speed, wetted surface was reduced by sailing on a different part of the hull shape by intentionally heeling the boat with the crews' weight. In heavy airs, you want to keep the hull flat. (Sailing is full of conventional wisdom contradictions.) In the Rhodes, you do this with a lower boom (lowering the mechanical advantage of heeling), the crew sitting on the gunnels (live ballast in a hiking seat position) and, if you can still not keep "her" flat, maybe a little less sail area.


If speed is what you want, lowering the boom is the first of the steps to take to keep the boat flatter. What you sacrifice is head room. However, there is still plenty of sitting headroom at this lower boom level and heads should always be on the lookout for booms no matter what level each is at. A side effect advantage of the lower boom position is that if you accidentally jibe, the chance of the boom snagging the back stays is eliminated.


If speed is what you want and you have lowered the boom and the boat still requires flattening, put away the cockpit cushions. There are grooves in the fiberglass cockpit seats that not only add strength and drainage, but provide a support for heels when the crew is sailing from the gunnels. Because of the flare in the hull, when you sit on the gunnels you are out beyond the boat (further out on the see-saw) and live ballast becomes very effective in keeping the boat flat. Even lightweights help since shifting weight from one side of the boat to the other has the effect of two times the actual weight of that crew member. Sailing from the gunnel is practical so take the time to work this into your repertoire until you feel at home up there. There are grab rails on the aft cabin wall to cling to. Hands can go under the rub rail. Arms can go around the stern rail (which has been mounted off the top of the gunnels for additional seating). Visibility is great. You can control the main sheet from any gunnel seat by adjusting the angle of the cam cleat on the traveler fiddler block. You can steer from any gunnel seat with the adjustable length tiller hiking stick. Go for it.


Strangely enough, you might get even more speed by shortening sails. If the wind is driving the boat on its side in spite of your efforts so far, the boat will tend to protect you by turning into the wind and this will slow it down. Shortening the sails will help keep the boat upright and on course and therefore give you a faster course time. While you can shorten sail area by sailing on jib or main alone, it is better to shorten both sails and keep a better balance.


Shortening the jib: Release the in-play jib sheet from its clam cleat and winch so the sail swings out into the wind. With pressure off the sail, lift the furling line from its cleat and pull this line until you have the sail area wanted. In heavy airs, the pull can be substantial. In most instances, if something on your Rhodes does not work easily, don't force it. Something is wrong and must be checked out. In heavy airs the genoa furling line is the exception and may require the muscle of the strongest crew member as the wind beats the released sail back and forth. If necessary, try the winch. In standard airs its anyone's assignment.


Shortening the main: Put tension on the topping lift so the boom does not have to be supported by the sail. Release the main outhaul line so the sail swings into the wind. In heavy airs, turn the boat into the wind so that the sail travels cleanly through the mast slot to cut cloth friction against the mast. This can be done by holding the boat into the wind with the motor or, if under sail, rapidly pulling on the main sail furling line when the boat passes into the wind as it comes about. In either case, you uncleat the furling line and pull it when the wind/sail relationship has the sail cleanly aligned in the mast slot. Move the outhaul car forward along the boom, to the desired new sail size and pull out a shortened main. Note: While the furling line does not have to be locked when the sail is fully out, it does have to be locked once you have established the shorter sail size you want, lest the wind pull the sail out to full size again. With this line locked, reset the out haul line. In heavy airs, sail shape should be flatter (i.e. have less draft). Adjust the topping lift tension for the main sail shaping you want and you are ready to continue your journey.




Trimming the Sails

You must know where you are going to and where the wind is coming from. It is easy to have this information and imperative to have it since these directions are interrelated. But in this new fluid element, new sailors tend to get confused. One way to stay your course is to have a compass. An easier way: pick a land reference. One way to know the wind direction is to have tell tales on the stays or a wind vane on the mast. Another: slowly turn into the wind until the leading edge of the jib starts to flutter (luff) and then make note of that direction in relation to a land mark. Once established, wind direction remains amazingly constant for the day or for many days. New sailors are always complaining that the wind is changing, but it is not. They are changing and are not aware of it. Winds do get fluky in close quarters because of land obstacles but the basic direction still remains the same and the fluke direction quickly passes, so you stay with the basic information.


Let's assume you have conquered this beginners' dilemma of imaginary wind shifting; you face three possible conditions: Your destination is directly into the wind (tacking), your destination is directly away from the wind (running), or you will be traveling with the wind caressing or battering you somewhere along the boat's port or starboard sides (reaching).



RUNNING

Your destination is such that the wind is directly in back of you or coming at you over your transom. It feels like the wind has stopped or at least let up considerably. It has not. You are simply moving with it so there is little relative difference in speed between you and the wind. It is an easy concept to understand yet almost all beginners comment on how the wind suddenly died when we come about. If you have any doubts, just make a 90 degree turn and see how the wind suddenly starts again.


If you set your mainsail so the boom is down the center of the cockpit, the wind would be striking the edge of a 5 ounce piece of cloth; obviously not the proper trim for running. You want the wind to strike as much sail area as possible so let out that boom as far as it will go just short of rubbing against a shroud. If the jib sail is on the same side as the main it will go limp as soon as the boom is let out because the main will then be blocking the wind from filling the jib. (The wind has not changed !) Put the jib out on the opposite side so the wind can strike as much area of the jib also. It is not always easy to keep both sails "wing and wing" or "butterfly" because the boat must be kept on a course where the wind is exactly in line with the bow/stern axis. Leaving the course slightly in one direction will collapse the jib, and leaving the course slightly in the other direction will invite a jibe. Running with both sails set properly becomes a little easier when you graduate to using a "whisker pole", (a "boom" for the jib).


Running is the easiest point of sail because you are not sailing at all, just being pushed by the wind. But beginners have trouble with it. I think it is because you feel you are going faster if the boat is heeling. Sailing downwind there is no heeling so there is a tendency to pull in the boom to heel and feel like you increased speed. I was in a fun race once and looked over my shoulder to see the rest of the amateur fleet falling behind me. "Let out your sail.", I graciously shouted. With instructions from the front office, they all instantly obeyed and they all started gaining on me. Having gained their confidence with this rewarding advice and seeing an embarrassment closing in on me, I shouted, "pull in your sails." which they dutifully did and I went on to win. The point is, don't let your feelings, or experts who want you to lose, mislead you. On a run, you want sails perpendicular to the wind.


With the wind in back of you, there is no side thrust on your boat (no slippage) so you do not need under water fins. Here is an opportunity for you. Keels cannot be jettisoned, but the Rhodes' wetted surface can be decreased by raising the centerboard. In fact if you do not pick up the centerboard it will probably start talking to you and until you learn boat language, let me translate this noise for you: "Under this point of sail I am not needed so pick me up." The raised board, retreating from the water flow under the boat, seats silent in its trunk.

-18-





REACHING

Reaching is when the course you are on has the wind coming from your side. It is the most fun way to sail. When the wind is coming from between your side and mid transom, it is called a broad reach and is even more fun. Most of your sailing time will be spent reaching, because, after all, the boat does have two sides. When you feel like an old pro, sit wherever you want but for now we suggest you sail from the windward side (the high side). On page 22 you will see why.


Both sails are trimmed the same way. Being very careful not to alter course while trimming, you let out a sail until its leading edge just starts to luff (flutter in the wind) and then pull it in until it stops luffing. If you inadvertently changed course while you were trimming sails, you can see that when you go back on your prime course, your sails will have the wrong trim for that direction.


Ribbons on the sail can help you. When the ribbon on the leeward side of the cloth (the low side of the boat, the side the wind is leaving from) straightens out in a horizontal plane, (you can see this through the sail cloth) you have trimmed for the proper airflow and get an "A". If you also get the ribbon on the windward side of the sail to fly horizontally you get an "A+". Be happy with the "A".




TACKING

A sailboat sails like an airplane flies. You know: The air dividing at the leading edge of the wing or sail wants to re-unite at the aft end of the sail since all the rest of the air around the world can not be displaced. So the air going over the curved side of the sail, having a longer distance to travel, goes faster. The airflow on the concave side of the sail goes straight (dead air has filled the concave area of the sail so moving air sees this side of the sail as straight, like an airplane wing), and thus, having a shorter distance to travel, goes slower. By a decision of physics, air movement affects air pressure. The faster airflow side creates a lower pressure than the slower airflow side and the net difference in pressure moves the wing or sail. Or you might look at it as air flowing over the sail creating a vacuum and sucking the boat into it. And, if you missed something here, forget about it. This entire theory is being challenged anyway since planes can also fly upside down. The message is that you need air flowing around a surface angled to the boat's axis. If you point the boat directly into the wind the sail aligns with the boat's axis and the difference of pressure on both sides of the sail equalizes and the boat stops.


So, if your destination is in the direction the wind is coming from, you will have to use a zig-zag approach. But how much to zig and how much to zag? If you sail too close to the wind, the pressure differential decreases and you slow up. If you zig-zag into the wind at too broad an angle, you go fast but then the distance you have to cover gets longer. In most boats a 45 degree approach to the wind is the best compromise. This means that every time you come about you will be making a 90 degree turn. With the zigs and zags making the same angular approach to the wind, once you trim the main, you do not have to touch it again while you are tacking.

-19-








The jib does have to be brought over on each tack so, for this and other reasons, most of the time you will shorten your genoa to a working jib when doing serious tacking. (With the Rhodes self-tending jib sail Super Option, even the jib does not have to be handled while tacking and all you do is play with the tiller.)


For running, the sails are way out. For reaching, they are partly out. For tacking, sails are trimmed as close to the centerline as practical. With the jib, this means using the inner set of cabin top jib sheet cam cleats. With the main, this means using the traveler to be able to bring the boom to the center of the cockpit.


What we have covered so far will get you going but not necessarily winning. There is sail shape to contend with and that is not within the modest scope of these sailing tips. Generally speaking, you want full sails for light airs and flatter sails for heavier airs. The location of the car on the genoa track will help in shaping the jib. The outhaul tension and the traveler will help shape the main. Experiment or read a good book or install a knotmeter and watch the applause needle go up when you do something right.




STEERING

Humans do not like to feel redundant. This boat requires so little contribution from the skipper that I have noticed new owners continually working the tiller back and forth just to feel they are doing something. If you need proof that the Rhodes can sail without continually pumping the tiller, lock the tiller hiking stick to the stern rail and watch the boat sail hands off. The tiller has almost a neutral helm (unless you set the blade otherwise) and it feels like power steering so there is a tendency to oversteer at first. If oversteering gives you a sense of satisfaction, do it. In moderation, it causes no special harm other than slowing the boat a bit. This is because, when the rudder blade is at an angle to the flow of water, it acts as a brake. More on this below.


While the tiller is occasionally used to fine tune your direction on a particular course, coming about is its big number. The first consideration is the centerboard. The boat can turn with the board up. But the turning radius will be somewhat smaller with the board down. So if you are in tight quarters requiring precision maneuvering, lower the board.


The second consideration is speed. To effectively steer a boat with a rudder, the boat must be in motion. The faster the boat is moving through the water, the more effective is the rudder. Things get a bit complicated here and it could all be defined by a computer and equations, but you will quickly get a feel for the right combinations. If you are moving slowly in light airs and a calm sea, you will have no trouble coming about at slow speed. But as the wind or sea or both pick up, they tend to work against the hull changing its direction, so you need more speed to pick up enough momentum to carry the boat past the point where it is directly into the wind when coming about.

Should the boat stall in an abortive coming about because the speed before turning the tiller was too low (this is known as being in "irons"), the wind will start to move the boat backwards. Remember, you can only steer a boat or a plane if you have motion and this goes for backward motion also. So once the wind has started moving you backwards with enough speed, all you have to do is move the tiller in the opposite direction and the boat will come about in the original direction you wanted. You will be on your new course as if you had planned it that way.


This idea of speed and maneuverability and stalling is so important that there will be times when you will have to put it into play to save the day, even though it might appear to guests that you have lost your marbles. For instance, suppose there is a jetty of rocks to starboard but you do not have enough speed on your present course to guarantee a successful coming about. Slowly changing course to avoid getting closer to those rocks (as most beginners would tend to do) only gets you closer and closer into the wind and thus slows you down further with the risk of eventually stalling the boat. Once in a stall, the wind will surely push you onto the rocks before you could get the motor going. The solution is simple but gutsy. You have to turn more in the direction of the rocks as if you were bent on self destruction. There is the risk of having guests abandon ship so you might want to advise them of the plan. Once you set yourself steady on this new course the boat will pick up speed and you will be able to turn in a flash long before you dock on a rock or end in a crash. Warning: Pushing the tiller hard over without sufficient forward motion is deadly. With the rudder blade pushed over so it approaches a right angle to the flow of water, what you really are doing is putting on a brake and this braking action slows you down even more, making coming about even more unlikely. Yet it is the most common mistake of a beginner trying to come about, in light airs, at low speeds.


Another consideration is: Should you come about in a broad arc or on a dime? The boat will do either and the choice depends on weather and location.


Weather: As the boat is coming about, at one point it will be headed directly into the wind, and it must be able to coast through this "directly into the wind" point. So it must have momentum. The amount of the momentum needed depends on how windy it is. This is because the wind is not only putting pressure on the sail, it is also pushing against the hull. This force can be considerable. So the windier it is, the quicker you should bring the boat to the other side of dead-into-the-wind. On the other hand, while the wind forces on the boat vary, the momentum of the boat is constant for similar speeds. So on light air days, the boat can travel for a long distance before wind force against the hull stops the momentum. You can come about in a much larger radius, and this may be desirable.


Location: I like to cite the illustration of a submarine suddenly surfacing in front of you. Push the tiller hard over either way and the boat will come about in its own radius. It is comforting to know that the boat will reduce your collision suits by responding to your alert instructions to either jibe or come about on a dime in a tight situation. On the other hand, the less tacks you have to take, the better (for obvious reasons) so if you could come about in a broader arc, the boat would cover more forward course territory before you start on the next tack. This is particularly useful in narrow waterways or where the slower, broader coming about technique will allow you to pass a land mass that otherwise would require still another tack.


Trick: Say you are in a narrow channel with the wind off your starboard bow. Your tack has taken you as close as you care to come to the port shore line and you prepare to come about. You can fool the boat by making a wide coming about arc but never turning through the wind to actually come about. This way the momentum of the boat will carry you far enough toward the starboard side of the channel so you can use what remains of the momentum to fall off the wind and continue on the same tack without ever having really come about.


Up to now we have talked about bringing the boat about. But what about bringing your body about?


I have not had the time yet to read a book on sailing. (That is probably obvious from the terminology I have used in explaining my notions in this booklet.) So the following suggestions on the body language of coming about is not necessarily a text book technique. Rather it is based on my years of watching beginners and then doing the opposite.


After dutifully shouting all the prescribed commands, the novice pushes the tiller and immediately springs towards the opposite seat; time of arrival depending on how badly feet get tangled in sheets carpeting the cockpit floor. During these seconds of skipper-in-motion, eyes never leave the view across the boat's bow. Not since the "Exorcist" have heads been known to rotate 360 degrees. This means the skipper's two hands have had to remain in back of the body switching tiller from hand to hand, a very awkward maneuver. Once planted on the other side, novices become distinguishable by their crossed eyes, self knotted limbs and sheet entwined feet - and oh yes, their next step.


Some immediately straighten the tiller before the boat has completed coming about, the theory being: "If I am now on this side of the boat we must now be on the other tack". But with the boat still being on the original tack, a fog of confusion quickly engulfs skipper and crew, and the standard phrase is heard: "Oh, oh, the wind shifted".


Others do not straighten the tiller until they have straightened out hands, feet and mind and by then the boat has come about 180 degrees instead of 90. They too have sailed into that fog of confusion with only one way out: "Oops, the wind has changed".






Suggestions: In good sailsmanship, neatness counts. The main sheet rarely has to be handled when coming about so it should be out of the way in a transom corner. Assuming a crew member is handling the jib (or it is self-tending), we will also not be worrying about the jib sheets here. But you should be neatly on the windward seat.


Push the tiller away from you, either rapidly or gradually, depending on your decision for a sharp or broad turn as previously discussed. In either case, STAY WHERE YOU ARE. And stay there until the boom comes to the center of the cockpit. As the boom crosses the center line of the boat, you simultaneously cross to the opposite side. There are two reasons for this timing: First is maintaining the balance between the heeling forces and your live ballast. The less the change in the angle of operation, the easier the operation will be for everyone. The more important reason for sitting tight and then exchanging positions simultaneously with the boom is that you know when the boat has actually come about and that you can straighten the tiller as soon as you are in your new seat. Hands do not get tangled because this pivoting motion from one side to the other is done with the back of the body facing the bow (instead of the other way around) so it is fast and easy to transfer the tiller from one hand to the other. (You can afford to lose sight of your forward view for these few seconds, and the rare view over the transom may prove interesting.)


If you are sailing single handed and handling the jib sheets when you come about, remember the idea of using the opposite winch as a turning block so the jib sheet comes across the cockpit to the winch on your side and into its clam cleat. Then when you push the tiller to come about, you can release the jib sheet without having to prematurely go to the other side. When the time does come to shift to the opposite side (as covered above) simply take the slack, opposite jib sheet with you.


Jibing is coming about in the opposite direction. It is not a big deal and sometimes it is very useful to have this option. An uncontrolled jibe can result in the end of the boom rising so high as it crosses the cockpit, that it hits the back stays. You would then have to reach up and release it by hand or come about again. A controlled jibe iS more desirable. Unlike coming about into the wind, jibing about brings the boom over very rapidly. You can anticipate and avoid this violent action by using the main sheet to pull in the boom and let out the boom as the wind moves to the other side of the sail. You will manage this with a bit of practice.




RETURNING TO PORT

This is a sailboat, not a motor boat so learn to rely on the motor less and less. Time will decrease your motor's reliability and increase yours.


The problem with docking is you have to bring the boat to a stop and using the dock to accomplish this is the least desirable technique. I have seen owners sail into their dock or slip with the wind behind them and destruction in front of them.


Fortunately, with your boat there are several other plans. The conventional one is to make your final approach so that you come alongside the dock (or up to the mooring) headed into the wind. Sailboats quickly exhaust their momentum into the wind and this braking action can take you to a perfect stop. It is just a matter of a little practice to become familiar with wind versus momentum velocity and similar to the time it takes one to adjust to backing a car into a parking space. The mistake beginners make is to not trust the boat's maneuverability and to turn parallel to the dock at a distance too far from the dock (too far from the curb). Head right into the dock and turn at the very last minute, or if space allows, make a wide swing into the wind, gradually closing the space between dock and boat. The motor should be up so prop drag does not affect steering. In either approach the boat will do its thing if you have the nerve. If you cannot land directly into the wind, you do have some latitude by simply letting out the boom and jib sheets so that at least the sails are into the wind. (Just be careful that an extended boom does not clear the dock of spectators.)


Let's back track a little. You have decided to land so your computer docking program goes into action. Is the wind direction such that you can dock with the bow reasonably into the wind? Which side of the boat will be making contact with the dock? Put out the fenders to cushion miscalculations. Have docking lines ready to snag cleats or piling tops if docking speed is too high (like the deck wires on an aircraft carrier) or if the parking space is limited and you do not want to disturb the boat in front. How deep is the water at the dockside? If deep enough, come in with centerboard and rudder fully down for maximum maneuverability. If shallow, consider dropping the centerboard at the right moment so it hits bottom and acts as a brake. How heavy is the wind? It is rare that the wind is so light that you will need both sails to dock, so furl the jib to zero and make the job much simpler. If the wind is very light, set the rudder up slightly and rely on some last minute sculling to complete the landing. When you get things down pat, you will be able to dock single handed, bring the boat to a perfect stop and step off the boat onto the dock to secure the lines, and walk away with a very satisfied feeling.


But what if wind direction is not accommodating and you cannot use it as your brake? Some simple solutions: Wind off the dock: Sail parallel to the dock, turn toward the dock so the wind will slow you down, drop a conventional sail or furl a furling sail and, using momentum, turn alongside the dock at the last moment. Wind onto the dock: Drop or furl sails earlier, use the wind to push the hull, turn parallel to the dock a little earlier since the wind against your side will continue to push you toward the dock. Wind parallel to the dock but you must dock so the wind is off your transom: In any but light airs, a difficult approach and best done under motor or, buy Innermast Furling. In very heavy airs have the motor down and ready to stop you by going into reverse.


With Innermast Furling, this whole job of docking gets to be fun.



TRAILERING


Trailering the Rhodes is so easy that you will forget there is a boat following you. Once I did glance out my side window and noticed my boat passing me. You don't want to hear about that. Just make certain someone locked the trailer coupling and secured the chains. If the back of the car goes down too low, either your shocks are shot or the boat is too far forward on the trailer. If the trailer fishtails, the boat is too far aft on the trailer. You can adjust the boat's position on the trailer without going back into the water and without a crane; just a little ingenuity and caution.


To shift the boat forward, move the trailer bow arm slightly forward, tighten the winch line and apply the car brakes when you are on a slight decline (and there are no cars in back of you!). To move the boat aft (reduce tongue weight) put some slack in the winch line, go backwards on an incline and apply the brakes. Be careful. To add tongue weight, we once placed a tire between a tree and the transom and gently backed up the car.

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Always stay within the speed limit. Swaying and fishtailing may develop at higher speeds. Blowouts at high speeds can be dangerous. And don't forget to make wide turns. The trailer makes a shorter turning radius than the car. One of our drivers brought home part of an Indiana bridge and the state sent us a bill. Most all drivers will give you a wide berth when you are pulling your boat. Give them plenty of space in return. Example: When perpendicularly entering traffic, allow more room for an oncoming car who may adjust speed for your car but not realize a trailer is right behind you.




MAINTENANCE

Cleaning: Most anything goes, with few exceptions. Do not use anything stronger than alcohol or mineral spirits on the windows. All parts of the boat clean easily with soap and water. Fiberglass areas can take most anything. Fine scratches will come out with "Soft Scrub" type cleaners. Acetone or lacquer thinner will not hurt the gel coat but do not use these solvents on anv Plastic sarts. Fine steel wool and paint thinner will clean up stainless steel. "Waxing" will make the boat easier to clean. Just be judicious regarding the areas to wax. Fiberglass is a slippery surface to walk on, particularly when wet or waxed, even the so called "non-skid" areas. So always move about your boat with caution.


Lubricating: Most any type will do. We carry a jar of "Vaseline" and a lubricant in a spray can. Areas to occasionally hit: Boom and pop top sliders, pop top arms, locks, o.b. motor lift tracks and tiller, (if it squeaks in the rudder head), lazaret hatch hinges (to make it easier to slide this hatch off sideways if you ever wish to completely remove it). If you have Innermast Furling, spray lubricant into the mast slot between and onto the two lower bearings and the furling line. The bow vent is removable and rotatable and plugable. Lubricating its friction socket won't hurt. Even sliding doors and table post ends like a little lubrication now and then.


Anti-fouling Paint: Some locales require bottom painting twice a season, most only once a year, and some will let you get by with every second year. Growth on a boat's bottom is partly proportional to water temperature. If a boat is to remain in the water for more than two weeks, it generally should be painted. Check with other owners in your waters. If the boat came with bottom paint, the second time around should only require some light preparation. If the boat did not come with paint, the first time requires some extensive preparation to remove all wax before putting on a fiberglass primer before putting on the one or two coats of anti-fouling paint. One owner's suggestion: apply two coats in different colors so when the first coat wears out you can see the color change.


The boat requires little maintenance. Read the papers from our various suppliers that we put in the boat. We are concerned, however, that you enjoy your boat in safety, so don't skip the following section.

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DANGER: Before raising your mast make certain you will clear all obstructions. Do not move the boat with the mast up in any area where it may strike anything. Always check turnbuckles to see that they are not unthreading. Examine stays for loose or damaged strands. Check the wood tiller for signs of delamination or splits. Keep your head and guests' heads below boom level. Seat and support yourself (and particularly guests) in such a manner that a gust will not cause leqs to sliP and qo under the opPosite seat and scrane shins. Make sure that the three pins that secure the pop top in its up position are fully in their sockets so the top does not slide down unexpectedly on someone's arm or head. If anyone does fall overboard, throw fenders, cockpit cushions and life jackets overboard, if they are not wearing a life preserver. Kill an on engine if there is any chance they will be near it. Keep your eyes on them as you come about to pick them up. It is easy to lose sight of objects in water because of waves. Throw out an attached drag line and lower the ladder.


Use a safety line or wire from motor to stern eye in case it walks loose from the bracket, or any part of the bracket fails. Use the bow eye if you use a mooring line, with a slack safety line to the docking cleat.


Read and follow Coast Guard rules and information pertaining to lightning, navigation and boating safety. I do not want to be an alarmist. In all the years we have been producing the Rhodes 22, no one has ever been really hurt. It is just that we want you to help us keep our perfect record.




SERVICING THE CENTERBOARD

You will rarely, if ever, have to touch your centerboard controls. Removing the board is easy but time consuming. With the boat out of the water, fold back the carpet so the wood panel covering the centerboard trunk cap is exposed. Unscrew the few screws that secure the cowling that supports the entrance part of the seat and slide this cowling out from under the seat so the entire wood panel over the centerboard cap is reachable. Remove this wood panel by taking out the screws holding it to the floor unit frame. The fiberglass centerboard cap will now be fully exposed. Remove all the screws (and bolts, if any) around the circumference of the cap. There are a lot of them so an electric screwdriver would save time. Release the centerboard pendant from its cockpit cam cleat so there will be slack in the line and gently pry up the centerboard cap being careful not to damage the reusable neoprene gasket. With the cap lifted, the centerboard and its pin can be lifted up out of the centerboard trunk. If you ever go this far to replace a line or centerboard, it is a good opportunity to give the inside of the trunk a good swabbing of bottom paint.




THE INTERIOR

We did not think the interior called for any instructions but we have had objections to this omission so turn the page.

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The cabin door can be installed with the hinge facing outward or inward. With the hinge outward the door can be readily used as a table by turning down its top half and using the small aluminum leg.


The main dining table sets up in the cockpit or in the cabin or its stanchion removes so this table can be lowered to form the dinette double bunk, mattressed by the three backrest cushions: The aft cushion (smallest of the 3) moves to the hinged seat (by the "head") and rotates 90 degrees to fit this space. The bow end cushion (square and second in size) moves to the entrance step seat. The center cushion goes on top of the lowered table top. If any cushions fit tight, raise and lower adjacent ends together.


When not serving as a bed support, or table, this panel stores in tracks under the bow deck. Forward of these table storage tracks is the rope locker with its anchor vent feed above . It can be removed like a drawer for cleaning or other storage use. Hammocks can be hung from the peg board sides of the "V" berth for clothing and bedding storage. The top of these sides form 12' of storage shelving. Under this bunk are panels for access to the water and waste tanks. Battery and macerator are under the hinged dinette seat. The water tank has a screw-on top so it can be cleaned out or used for other dry storage purposes.


In the "head" floor is an inspection port for access to the "head" intake valve. The sliding panel across the front "V" berth is removable it you wish to leave it home. The "head" compartment door is made of three panels. It can be fully opened and hooked to the galley rail. The end panel can be folded back and hooked to the back of the other panels so the compartment can be closed by a two panel door for more cabin space. Piano hinges allow the three panel door to form a "U" configuration with the end panel hooked from inside the "head" so as to make the compartment larger when in use. The "head" has a 110 volt outlet, a light that operates by moving its lens sideways, mirror, cosmetic shelf, medicine shelf, paper holder and clothes and towel hooks. The locking closed overhead hatches can be opened to any angle and secured by rotating arms.


Cabin lights have individual switches and also control from the master panel over the aft end of the galley upper shelf fascia. This fascia has a 110 volt GFI double outlet, a 12 volt outlet and 12 volt and 110 volt fuses. The galley stove and ice box are removable. The ice compartment is removable and shelves adjustable.


Under the entrance step is a large sliding drawer. Limited additional storage is accessible via a sliding door under the couch riser and hinged seat. Space at the aft end of the galley is suitable for a garbage pail or serving trays.


The cabin floor and all elements of the cabin interior, with the exception of the "V" bunk bulkhead and the floor unit framing, are removable by unscrewing.






WELL, now that you have all this down pat, how about a new R - 26 ?