[Rhodes22-list] Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was: Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy

[Roger Pihlaja]

Bryan,

I'm sorry, I was rushing out the door for New Years Eve when I wrote that
last piece of advice yesterday.  Now, I see I made a real mess of it.  OK,
let's try again...

Assume your thickness increase will be about 10 mils (0.010 inch) per side.
Since you will be finishing both sides of the floorboards, your thickness
increase will be about 0.020 inch total.  So, your final floorboard
thickness will be about:

0.365 + 0.020 = 0.385 inch

If the ID of the groove in the aluminum rail is presently 0.040 inch, it
doesn't sound like you will be increasing the thickness of the floorboards
enough to cause an interference fit.  However, since you say the fit is
"snug" right now; then, to be on the safe side, you should probably sand the
thickness of the floorboards down a bit prior to starting the epoxy
treatment.  You wouldn't have to reduce the thickness of the entire
floorboard, just a narrow band near the edge where the groove in the
aluminum rail fits.  Removing 10 mills per side in a narrow band along the
edge of each floorboard wouldn't take very long with a belt sander.  Try to
sand roughly equal amounts off the top & bottom of the floorboards.

We had guests staying at our house last night for New Years Eve, Jim & Joyce
Shorek.  Jim & I are friends from high school.  The Shoreks live in Shelby
Twp, MI about 23 miles north of Detroit.  Our New Years Eve tradition is to
entertain at each other's houses on alternate years & it was our turn.  We
went to a place in Gladwin, MI called "The Lost Arrow Resort" for dinner and
dancing.  The chef at the Lost Arrow Resort specializes in wild game dishes.
The lodge/restaurant is an enormous log cabin-style structure right on the
banks of the Tittabawassee River.  Finally got to bed about 2:30 this
morning.  I don't know why I'm up this early, force of habit I guess.

Gary spent the night over at a friend's house.  Daniel rang in 2005 at a
local party in Sanford; but, he was home before we were.

It was a vey pleasant evening.  Yesterday, the weather up here started out
in the mid 50's deg F and dropped down below freezing after dark.  We had
rain, but it blew thru yesterday morning.  Last night was windy, but the
roads were dry.

I start 2005 in a more hopeful frame of mind than the last couple of years.
2004 was the year I finished my new BSME degree and hopefully had the
initial interviews for my new career.  The first part of 2005 should tell
the tale & 2004 may turn out to have been a pretty good year after all.  I
hope something wonderful happened to each of you in 2004 & wish you all the
best for 2005.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
To: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>; "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Re: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was:
Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy


> Bryan,
>
> Figuring about 10 mils/side, the thickness of your floor boards will
> increase by about 0.020 inches.  0.365 + 0.040 = 0.405  Therefore, you
will
> have to remove some material from your floorboars prior to epoxy
treatment.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
> To: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>; "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 1:36 PM
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Re: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was:
Surface
> Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy
>
>
> > Thanks for all the tips.  The dingy that I have uses, for the two aft
> boards, a aluminum rail on each side that has a groove in which the boards
> fit.  The outer edge of the rail is shaped to interface with the rubber
> dingy material.
> >
> > One concern that I have is adding thickness to the boards that would
> prevent it from going into the side rails.  Presently the raw board is
.365
> inch and the rail groove is .400  It is designed to fit snug to prevent
the
> flexing of the two rear sections. I am not sure how much thickness the
resin
> and paint will add to the boards.
> >
> > The original boards were varnished.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Pihlaja <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> > Sent: Dec 31, 2004 9:17 AM
> > To: Bryan Childs <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>,
> > The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Nonskid Coating For Floorboards - Was: Surface Coating for
Floor
> Boards for an Inflatable Dingy
> >
> > Bryan,
> >
> > My inflatable sport dingy is the roll-up type.  The slats for the floor
> > boards are made of hollow rectangular extruded aluminum tubing, which
are
> > hinged to each other as well as to the inflatable's transom.  To prevent
> the
> > ends of the aluminum floor slats from chafing against the inside of the
> > inflatable's air chambers, the ends of the slats are covered with hard
> > rubber caps.  Many of the plywood floor inflatables I've seen have an
> > extruded plastic or hard rubber channel that snaps over the exposed
edges
> of
> > the plywood.  This snap-on channel serves the same anti-chafe function
as
> > the hard rubber caps on my inflatable.  Richard makes an excellent point
> > regarding not allowing an abrasive nonskid surface to rub up against the
> air
> > chambers.  However, I can speak from personal experience at how slippery
&
> > dangerous a wet painted or varnished deck can be.  Therefore, I would
> still
> > consider using the sand or some other nonskid material in your paint
> > topcoat.  If the plywood floor in your inflatable does not have the
> snap-on
> > channels as described above; then, you will have to mask off about an
inch
> > along the outer edge of the floor boards when you are sprinkling the
> nonskid
> > material onto the wet paint.  This will give the nonskid deck surface
you
> > need without exposing your air chambers to excessive abrasive wear.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
> > To: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>; "The Rhodes 22 mail list"
> > <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Sent: Friday, December 24, 2004 7:48 AM
> > Subject: Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an Inflatable Dingy
> >
> >
> > > Bryan,
> > >
> > > I would use epoxy to stabilize the plywood laminate against water
> > intrusion.
> > > The best way to do this would require a high pressure autoclave to
force
> > the
> > > epoxy deep into the laminate.  Since you probably don't have access to
> > such
> > > a system, here's what I would do:
> > >
> > > 1. Sand off all any remaining varnish or paint on the plywood floor
> > sections
> > > & set them up as if you were going to varnish.
> > >
> > > 2. At room temperature, use WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy resin, 209 extra
slow
> > > hardener, and cut the mixture to about 50%wt with acetone.  Mix the
105
> > > epoxy resin with the acetone and get it blended up thoroughly.  Then,
> > blend
> > > in the 209 extra slow hardener.  You should end up with a mixture that
> is
> > > very thin (low viscosity); but, still brushable.  WARNING: Acetone is
> very
> > > flammable & the vapors are somewhat toxic.  So, be careful about
> ignition
> > > sources and provide plenty of ventilation.  Wear personal protective
> gear
> > > (PPG) such as rubber gloves, rubber apron, rubber boots, goggles,
> chemical
> > > vapor respirator.
> > >
> > > 3. At room temperature, this thinned epoxy will have a pot life of
about
> > an
> > > hour.  During this time, keep brushing the liquid onto your floor
> > sections,
> > > paying particular attention to the places where the plywood end grain
is
> > > exposed.  The thin epoxy should soak into the wood about as fast as
you
> > can
> > > brush it on.  The acetone solvent will evaporate, leaving behind the
> > epoxy,
> > > which will cure up deep inside the plywood laminate.  If there is any
> > > interior rot in the plywood, the epoxy will arrest the rot and should
> > > permanently stabilize the laminate structure.
> > >
> > > 4. Leave the floor boards hanging at room temperature for at least 8
> > hours;
> > > but, not more than 20 hours to allow the acetone time to evaporate &
> > diffuse
> > > out of the wood plus have the epoxy cure to a green state.
> > >
> > > 5. At room temperature, mix up another batch of WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy
> > resin
> > > & 206 slow hardener.  Brush this mixture onto the plywood surface like
> it
> > > was varnish.  Some of it may soak into the wood; but, most of it
should
> > > layer on the surface like varnish.
> > >
> > > 6. Leave the floor boards hanging at room temperature for at least 2
> > hours;
> > > but, not more than 12 hours to allow the epoxy time to cure to a green
> > > state.
> > >
> > > 7. At room temperature, mix up another batch of WEST SYSTEM 105 epoxy
> > resin
> > > & 206 slow hardener.  Add WEST SYSTEM 422 barrier coat additive until
> the
> > > mixture has a viscosity similar to exterior latex paint.  Brush on two
> or
> > > three thin layers of this material allowing 2 to 12 hours between
coats.
> > > Let the final coat cure for at least 24 hours
> > >
> > > 8. Wash away any waxy amine blush on the surface with acetone.
> > >
> > > 9. Do any required finish sanding at this point.
> > >
> > > 10. I would finish up with a good polyurethane topsides paint like
> Awlgrip
> > > or Interthane Plus Two-Part Polyurethane in the color of your choice.
> > > Consider sprinkling some coarse washed sand over the wet paint to
> provide
> > a
> > > nonskid surface.  NOTE: Even with the 422 barrier coat additive, epoxy
> > does
> > > not have good resistance to UV.  Therefore, this final coating of
paint
> is
> > > essential for long epoxy life.  This will be especially important in
an
> > > application like a floorboard where it may sit for long periods with
> water
> > > on it and the hot noon day sun beating down.
> > >
> > > All this probably sounds like a royal PITA; but, it should provide you
> > with
> > > a set of bulletproof, maintenance-free floorboards.
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > > Roger Pihlaja
> > > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bryan Childs" <bchilds1 at peoplepc.com>
> > > To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2004 3:54 PM
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Surface Coating for Floor Boards for an
> > > InflatableDingy
> > >
> > >
> > > > I use an inflatable dingy for my Rhodes when cruising and I am in
the
> > > process of rebuilding the floor boards.  (Heading to the Florida Keys
in
> > > late Jan) These are boards that are linked together that form the
> flooring
> > > of the dingy.
> > > >
> > > > The original boards were varnished and did not last very long so I
am
> > > searching for a more durable coating.  Remember the edges of these
> boards
> > > are submersed in water particularly the stern section.  I have marine
> > > plywood but need opinions on the best coating: varnish,  epoxy paint,
> > resin.
> > > >
> > > > I know Roger will have some good ideas.
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________________
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> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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