[Rhodes22-list] Oil canning on the trailer

Thu Jun 9 00:02:33 EDT 2005

MJM,

That's a good point and I agree with all of it except for the part about trailers not equipped with strap hooks.  My 2003 Triad has two forward and two aft tie-down hooks welded to the frame made of 1/2" rod.  Each one looks capable of securing the entire boat.

I use two  "X"ed cross straps to the stern eyes (like Roger) in the rear and a single long strap across the front.  The front strap breaks just in front of the cabin house, right on the aft foredeck.

Also, 1/4" chain from the winch tower to the bow eye.  It's a big PITA to rig all that strapping, but worth it in peace of mind while driving.

PT

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: michael meltzer 
  To: Peter Thorn ; The Rhodes 22 mail list 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 10:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Oil canning on the trailer

  heads up, part of what keeps the boat on the trailer IS the friction of the bunks. rhodes22 owner are NOT in the habit of  strapping their boats down. The trailer do not nominally come with loop for straps. And I have broken 2 winches(the brakes) over the years. SO if you are going to do this make sure to add straps and padding for hull and deck, the time to set it up, and loosen the winch strap and replace it with tie downs. 

  MJM

  Peter Thorn wrote:

Slim,

Overton's has them.
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/overtons/detail/pdetail2.cgi?r=detail_view&item_num=27606

I used 2x6 kiln dried #1 PTSYP (pressure treated southern yellow pine),
available at the local lumber yard here - their best grade.  H/D and Lowes
don't usually carry such high quality.   I picked quarter sawn boards from
the pile for extra strength and stability.  It's hard to improve on Stan's
design, but it's fairly easy to use better materials for the bunks than
Michael Orro has been using lately on the Triads.

I think the low gear of that two-speed winch would pull stumps.  When the
boat and trailer is still wet it is easiest.  Mark placed a mark on Raven's
waterline stripe to match up with a mark on the Trailmaster trailer for
ideal tongue weight.  I installed a similar mark on the Triad and checked
the tongue weight with a tongue weight scale.  So, it's just a matter of
winching the boat forward in the parking lot to match up the two marks.
Thanks Mark -- good idea!

Raven has a hard vinyl paint, which doesn't come off easily.  A small amount
remains on the bunks after launching.

I hope this helps.  Good luck!

PT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Slim" <salm at mn.rr.com>
To: "Rhodes" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Oil canning on the trailer

  Peter,

I need to replace my bunks soon so I read your post with great interest.
    A
  couple questions:  Those look like 2 X 6s - would 2 X 8s be better?  And
what are Tie-Down Engineer's bunk guides and where did you get them?  You
can winch the boat forward with boat and trailer out of the water?
    Really?
  It doesn't take off the bottom paint?

Slim

On 6/8/05 6:24 PM, "Peter Thorn" <pthorn at nc.rr.com> wrote:

    Joseph,

I replaced the 10' non pressure treated larch bunks on my 2003 Triad
      with
  12' kiln dried Pressure Treated Southern Yellow Pine #1 grade lumber (no
knots).  As far as softwoods go, this is a very strong material and has
      a
  very high fiber stress rating.  Although it is flexible, under a load it
deflects less,  so it more evenly distributes the boat's weight across
      the
  bunks instead of point loading in the corners, like a lesser wood might
      tend
  to do.  At Stan's suggestion, I cantilevered the bunks 1' at each
      corner.
  Haven't had even the hint of oil-canning.

The plastic covers are Tie-Down Engineer's bunk guides.  Two kits did
      the
  bunks and inner keel guides.  These just make the boat more "slippery"
      on
  the trailer, so I can crank it slowly forward in the parking lot to
precisely load the tongue weight up to around 400#.  After reading Rik's
website and some of his writings, I also changed to a two-speed winch
      for
  the same purpose.  It all works together beautifully!

It you decide to go to all this trouble, you might also want to replace
      the
  trailer bunk bolts with stainless.  This extra expense insures you won't
have to do it again for a very long time.

Good luck.

PT
Raven
Chapel Hill, NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "J Cook" <joscook at msn.com>
To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 4:35 PM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Oil canning on the trailer

We just pulled our boat for a little paint-up, fix-up, clean-up time.

I remember seeing a post, a while back, trouble-shooting oil-canning
      when
  the boat is on the trailer. ( Hope I got that definition right.  Where
      the
  forward ends of the bunks press against the hull, I am finding a bit of
impression on both sides.)

Before putting her on the trailer this time, I moved the winch bracket
forward about 2 inches. I also put a drop hitch in the reciever), and
      the
  bunks were significantly less angled on the ramp than before..

We ratcheted the boat up snug, pulled up the ramp, re-snugged, backed
      down
  again, re-snugged again and repeated a couple of timed until her bow was
well rested against the Y.  But I'm still getting a bit of inward bound
      to
  the hull.

The boat's weight is bearing on the two 128" bunks and one roller at the
      aft
  end of the keel.  No weight is on the two runners, which I assume serve
      only
  to guid the boat onto the trailer.  There is no front roller on the
Trailmaster trailer.

Any ideas for an easy fix?  I don't recall if anybody has tried
      lengthening
  the bunks to 12 feet or instaled a front roller.  I guess those maight
      be
  options.

Hopefully, she's going back in the water soon, so I can get another shot
      at
  adjusting the trailer.

Thanks

Joseph Cook
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