[Rhodes22-list] Phyllis - traveler bar connections

[ed kroposki]

Phyllis:
	1.  Follow Bill's suggestion and look thoroughly at the socket.  Bob
Quinn gave you descriptions of only two models.  There are more models.
Mine has single holes on both ends of the traveler and a single hole on each
socket.  A 'quick pin' is used to secure the traveler to the socket.  A
quick pin may be used for this application, but never replace a clevis with
a quick pin.  A quick pin may also be called a fastpin or ball-lok quick
release pin.  See page 1016 in the 2005 West Catalog.
	2.	Such a system does not have holes thru both sides of the
devices, only on hole on each end of traveler and one hole on each socket.
When you received your boat, the pins were likely with the boat, you just
did not know what for.
	3.  	Then there is always the possibility the P.O. replaced the
sockets without drilling the holes.  However, most backstays are intricate
to replace with going thru GBI.
	4.	There may be more systems out there.  It needs to be
fastened someway.  

Ed K
Greenville, SC, USA

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bill Effros
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 1:23 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] backstay tension/traveler bar

Did you look at the under side of the socket?



P&M Beals wrote:

>Thanks.  I have the single hole in the traveler bar but no hole in the
>sockets attached to the stays. That seems to be the problem, and strange
>that the socket wouldn't have that hole.
>Maybe I will contact Stan, and see if there is anything I can do to get
>sockets on the stays with the holes, or why the ones I have would be
without
>the holes. Ours was a recycled boat by Stan a couple years ago, though I am
>not the owner who bought directly from Stan.
>
>Thanks for the feedback on the tension guage vs. strum method.  The
cheapest
>tension gauge costs $48 and they go up from there.
>
>Phyllis
>
>
>  
>
>>From: Bill Effros <bill at effros.com>
>>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:04:28 -0400
>>To: sanderico at earthlink.net, The Rhodes 22 mail list
>><rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] backstay tension/traveler bar
>>
>>Phyllis,
>>
>>Ditto.
>>
>>I set my shroud tension by ear and eye using the strum method.  If I
>>subsequently don't like the look or sound of it, I change the
>>turnbuckles until I like it.  I don't think there should be so much
>>tension on the system that you are in danger of yanking things out of
>>the boat--the pitch should not be too high.  Nor should it be so loose
>>that you can't get any sound out of the "strings".  Anything in between
>>is a matter of personal preference.  The very high pitched systems make
>>me nervous no matter whose boat they are on.
>>
>>I have 1 hole in my traveler bar, also.  You may have a single hole
>>also, if you look.  It does not go all the way through, and a simple pin
>>holds it in place because of all the tension on the shrouds.
>>
>>Bill Effros
>>
>>Rik Sandberg wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Phyllis
>>>
>>>My traveller bar had a small hole in the top of each end for a pin to
>>>go through the traveller bar and the sockets it fit into on the aft
>>>stays. I never had a problem with these coming out, although if you
>>>have no pins, I would see where you might. I would drill the traveller
>>>bar and it's sockets so you can put a retaining pin in there.
>>>
>>>I never used a loos gauge to set my rigging. I just set it tight
>>>enough so it would just start to make a low tone when I strummed it.
>>>This gave me just a little slack in the lee shrouds when going to
>>>weather. This probably wasn't the "proper" way to do this, but it
>>>worked just fine for me.
>>>
>>>Your wire is 1/8 inch. The right loos guage would be the 3/32nds to
>>>5/32nds version.
>>>
>>>Rik
>>>
>>>P&M Beals wrote:
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>>>Looking  back at the Rhodes 22 instruction booklet, the FAQ on the
>>>>Rhodes 22
>>>>site, I read that the backstay tension is the  thing that keeps the
>>>>traveler
>>>>bar in place, is that correct?   On our boat it seems to be the case
>>>>even
>>>>though the traveler bar has a small hole at each end, and one would
>>>>think
>>>>the piece on the backstay into which the bar fits might have a hole
>>>>as well,
>>>>so you could insert a clevis pin?? but clearly there isn't any such
>>>>hole to
>>>>receive a clevis pin...
>>>>
>>>>so it comes down to the backstay tension being tight enough to keep that
>>>>traveler bar securely in place....
>>>>
>>>>Please advise me if this is correct.
>>>>
>>>>Last evening with 12-15 mph winds we jibed, the boom swung over hard
>>>>and the
>>>>traveler bar came loose, knocking my husband across the head...while
>>>>he did
>>>>not feel OK as we were feebly asking "Are you OK?" he has recovered fine
>>>>with one Advil...
>>>>
>>>>This brings me to my second question regarding Loos tension gauges...
>>>>I read a piece in the FAQ on those by Roger...do most of you check the
>>>>tension of your stays at the beginning of the season?
>>>>
>>>>How do I know which Loos guage to get? Is the size of the stay wire the
>>>>measurement that I find in the West Marine catalog?
>>>>3/32"- 5/32"
>>>>
>>>>3/16"-9/32"
>>>>
>>>>1/4"-3/8"
>>>>
>>>>these are some of the choices, also regular vs. pro.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks for any help...while Mike has recovered fine from the blow, I
>>>>don't
>>>>want to sail with any guests on board until I get this figured
>>>>out...nor to
>>>>sail in any but the lightest winds.  For beginners I guess we have to
>>>>just
>>>>tighten up the backstay as much as possible?  We thought we had it
>>>>pretty
>>>>snug a month ago.
>>>>
>>>>Phyllis
>>>>Whisper 
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>        
>>>>
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>>>
>>>      
>>>
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>>    
>>
>
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>  
>
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