[Rhodes22-list] 90% jib
Robert Dilk
robertdilk at hotmail.com
Fri Mar 18 20:39:42 EST 2005
Roger,
As always, a good explaination.
Sounds like good insurance to me.
Bob
S/V Knot Necessary
>From: "Roger Pihlaja" <cen09402 at centurytel.net>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 90% jib
>Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 10:16:50 -0500
>
>Peter, Bob,
>
>Use this link to take a look at an annotated detail photo of the bow
of
>Dynamic Equilibrium:
>
>http://www.rhodes22.org/rhodes/pics/Roller_Furling.jpg
>
>Note the HD padeye about 12 inches behind the roller furler, the one
which
>has the outboard end of the whisker pole snapped onto it. Besides
whisker
>pole storage, that HD padeye serves as the tack attachment point for
my
>cruising spinnaker &/or storm jib.
>
>However, even though the foredeck is plywood cored, it was not
designed to
>be loaded in the manner in which high luff tension on a headsail will
load
>it. The foredeck was designed to withstand loads directed downward
from
>above from things like people standing on the foredeck &/or the hull
flexing
>upward due to backstay tension. These designed-for types of loads
will
>place the nonskid skin of the foredeck into compression. The
foredeck was
>not designed to withstand an upward angled tension (pulling apart)
load from
>the luff of a headsail. This type of load on the HD padeye will put
the
>nonskid skin of the foredeck into tension. One would expect to see
>hairline cracks forming in the nonskid foredeck around the padeye
running in
>directions perpendicular to this tension load as the foredeck starts
to fail
>from this sort of loading. The failure will be a cumulative damage
type of
>phenomena - i.e. Every time the HD padeye is loaded beyond a certain
>critical threshold, even for a split second, the hairline cracks in
the
>foredeck will grow and the critical load threshold will decrease for
the
>next load cycle. At the very least, these cracks will allow water
intrusion
>into the plywood core and one can envision much worse scenarios!
>
>To prevent this failure, I installed a tension load transfer system
down
>below in the V-berth area. I purchased identical padeyes to the HD
unit on
>the foredeck and the OEM bow towing eye. Using longer stainless
steel thru
>bolts and nuts, I installed these padeyes on the inside of the cabin
as
>"backing plates" for the HD padeye and OEM bow towing eye. Then,
using a
>combination of off-the-shelf stainless steel shackles and turn
buckles, I
>connected these two padeyes to form a mechanical tension link. The
geometry
>of my installation causes the turnbuckle to end up at about a 45 deg
angle
>relative to the roof of the inner cabin liner. Now, when headsail
luff
>tension loads the HD padeye on my foredeck, the load is transfered
thru the
>tension load transfer link to the bow towing padeye and the very
rigid
>structure of the hull right at the bow.
>
>Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of this installation down
inside the
>cabin in the V-berth area. Dynamic Equilibrium is still in winter
storage
>at the Midland County Fairgrounds, so I don't have easy access to it.
>Hopefully, my word description of the installation will be sufficient
to
>explain what I did and why. I installed this tension load transfer
system
>back in 1989, have used it very severely over all these years, and
have zero
>leaks or any visible hairline cracks around the HD padeye to this
day.
>
>The devil is in the details gentlemen. Good luck!
>
>Roger Pihlaja
>S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert Dilk" <robertdilk at hotmail.com>
>To: <pthorn at nc.rr.com>; <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 9:04 AM
>Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] 90% jib
>
>
> >
> > I have a cleak 4" behind the furler. A rope loop through the
eye on
> > the end of the wire luff attaches to the cleat. My halyard has
a
> > pulley that attaches to the head and gives a 2 to 1 purchase. I
'sweat
> > the line' against a cleat on the mast. Works for me.
> >
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > S/V Knot Necessary
> > >From: "Peter Thorn" <pthorn at nc.rr.com>
> > >Reply-To: Peter Thorn <pthorn at nc.rr.com>,The Rhodes 22 mail
list
> > <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >To: "The Rhodes 22 mail list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 90% jib
> > >Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2005 13:18:57 -0500
> > >
> > >Bob,
> > >
> > >Very interesting. Do you tack your 90 jib to a padeye about
4"
> > behind the
> > >furler? If so, how well does that work? Raven has a padeye
there
> > for the
> > >UPS that looks like it is strong enough to lift the boat
with. Do
> > you have
> > >any problems getting the wire luff tension tight enough? How
do you
> > tension
> > >the halyard?
> > >
> > >Thanks.
> > >
> > >PT
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Robert Dilk" <robertdilk at hotmail.com>
> > >To: <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2005 8:41 AM
> > >Subject: RE: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa size
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1976 Rhodes 22 with 175 and standard main with
1 reef
> > point.
> > > >
> > > > I also have a 90% jib on a wire luff that flies behind
the
> > furled GBI
> > > > head sail furler.
> > > >
> > > > As you may have noticed, sail selection is extremely
personal.
> > My
> > > > conditions are typical 10 kts or less OR 20+ and
gusty.Under 10
> > kts
> > > > the 175 is great. As the white caps begin to show I put
a Reef
> > in the
> > > > main, next I would Reef the 175 to about 140. More wind
and I
> > Furl the
> > > > genoa and fly the 90. the added benefit is the 90 sheets
inside
> > the
> > > > shrouds.
> > > >
> > > > This is all single handed. More crew usually means I fly
more
> > sail (
> > > > more work, more FUN)
> > > >
> > > > My 2 cents.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bob
> > > >
> > > > S/V Knot Necessary
> > > >
> > > > Morristown, TN
> > > > >From: "George Carpenter" <geocarp3 at mchsi.com>
> > > > >Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > > >To: "Rhodes 22 list" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > > >Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Genoa size
> > > > >Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:38:41 -0600
> > > > >
> > > > >Following a tour of the Chicago Sailboat Show I decided
to
> > move "up"
> > > > from my 2001 Precision 23 to a recycled 1991 Rhodes 22,
which
> > Stan is
> > > > in the process of putting the finishing touched on as we
speak.
> > Since
> > > > I sail on a reasonably large (for the area) lake in Iowa
where
> > the
> > > > winds are most often moving between 10-20 it seems a
175% genoa
> > is
> > > > overkill. I used to truly enjoy racing, but have no
interest in
> > > > getting back into that, and I normally sail alone and
speed is
> > not a
> > > > factor. I'm thinking a 150 should be fine, but would bow
to
> > your
> > > > experience(s).
> > > > >
> > > > > George Carpenter
> > > > >__________________________________________________
> > > > >Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
www.rhodes22.org/list
> > > > __________________________________________________
> > > > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> > >
> > >__________________________________________________
> > >Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> > __________________________________________________
> > Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
> >
> >
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
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