[Rhodes22-list] Anchor Chain Question

[Mary Lou Troy]

Bill,
I've always heard that the primary function of chain is to keep the pull on 
the anchor low, to increase the catenary and to reduce shock loads in all 
but the most extreme conditions (when a snubber is needed as well). There's 
a better explanation of this than mine at 
http://www.johnsboatstuff.com/Articles/anchor.htm

Our Danforth holds better with 16 ft. of chain than it did with 8 ft. of 
chain because the extra weight of the chain is keeping the direction of 
pull on the shank low. In many places we anchor I now use less scope 
because we are much closer to the needing the scope required for an all 
chain rode. (thinking 3:1 all chain, calm conditions; 5:1 chain/nylon rode, 
calm conditions; 7:1 chain/nylon rode, more difficult conditions)

Mary Lou
1991 R22 Fretless
Ft. Washington, PA / Swan Creek, MD

At 09:30 AM 3/19/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Bill,
>
>As I understand the function of chain, its primary purpose is to prevent 
>line abrasion on the bottom.  If you don't have a rough bottom you really 
>don't need chain.  As soon as you set a Danford type anchor you have 
>pulled the chain off the bottom, and the chain and line should stay off 
>the bottom, putting all the pressure on the anchor flukes and causing them 
>to dig strongly into the bottom.
>If you have sufficient scope, the pressure on the anchor is horizontal 
>within the design specifications, and it should reset itself as needed if 
>the boat slowly swings around it due to wind or current shifts.  When you 
>are ready to retrieve it, you move the boat over the anchor and pull 
>vertically, and the anchor releases.  (You can pull the boat over the 
>anchor by hauling in the line, but it's much easier to motor over, and 
>pull just line straight up until you get to the anchor, which in our case 
>should weigh less than 10 lbs.)  The beauty of the Fortress anchors is 
>that they are both lighter and stronger than conventional anchors.
>
>Bill Effros
>
>
>
>William E. Wickman wrote:
>
>>You are right Wally.  It is all mud and clay with the occasional rock 
>>cropping here.  I think I may cut my 20 ft chain in half and carry the 
>>resulting pair of 10 ft lengths for use when I go to the coast.
>>Bill W.
>>--------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: rhodes22-list-bounces
>>Sent: 03/19/2005 06:57 AM
>>To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor Chain Question
>>
>>Bill,
>>
>>I agree with Bill here. I started out using about 8 feet of chain. For my 
>>conditions I quickly found out that I don't need any chain. I anchors in 
>>fairly shallow coves with red clay bottom. It has never been a problem. 
>>The chain seemed like extra hassle and weight. Everyone told me this was 
>>going to be a big problem. It has worked just fine and I spend a bunch of 
>>nights anchored. I would guess your conditions up river are much the 
>>same. If you plan on towing your boat to the coast I would suggest chain 
>>but don't see any need on the river.
>>
>>Wally.
>>
>>>From: Bill Effros <bill at effros.com>
>>>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchor Chain Question
>>>Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 19:04:01 -0500
>>>
>>>Bill,
>>>
>>>I've got the Fortress FX11, and I think it's a terrific anchor.  I also 
>>>have the smallest Guardian anchor, which I store in a pouch, 
>>>unassembled, and I've been very happy with that one also.
>>>
>>>I think those people know a lot about anchors, and I would be inclined 
>>>to follow their recommendations.
>>>
>>>I have several lines with differing amounts of chain on each, and 
>>>several with no chain at all.  I find I always go for the no chain at 
>>>all, because I've never had any trouble with it, and it's so much easier 
>>>to handle.
>>>
>>>The trick to anchoring (as with so many other things) is practice.
>>>Try setting your anchor when it's not critical.  See if you have enough 
>>>navigation skill to be able to determine if your anchor is dragging.
>>>
>>>When it's really blowing you shouldn't be on our boats in the first 
>>>place.  Anchoring and praying is not the answer.  If you are trapped in 
>>>a situation like this, and can't get to shore, head for open water and 
>>>heave-to.  Practice heaving-to, too.  Work with the elements, not against them.
>>>
>>>The guy who developed those anchors recommends setting 2 at 180 degrees 
>>>apart and tying both off on the bow.  Then neither one will have to 
>>>reset if current or wind shifts.  Differing lengths of chain will  not 
>>>matter, longer scope can be set because the boat will rotate in a much 
>>>smaller arc relative to other boats.
>>>
>>>Avoid anchor overkill.  That goes for the chain, too.
>>>
>>>Bill Effros
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>William E. Wickman wrote:
>>>
>>>>I just got my nifty Fortress FX7 anchor.  The instructions that came with
>>>>the anchor said to use a short length of anchor chain (6 feet of chain if
>>>>anchoring in 25' of water or less, and add another 6 feet of chain for each
>>>>additional 25' of depth).  Their claim is that chain anchor rodes lack the
>>>>shock absorbancy of nylon rope when the wind increases.  This advice runs
>>>>contrary to what I have been reading in the Rhodes FAQ that most of you are
>>>>using around 20 feet of chain.  So, does the Fortress require less chain
>>>>because it is so light?  What gives?  I presume that these anchor guys know
>>>>what they are talking about, but...
>>>>
>>>>Also, since I have 20 feet of chain that I use with my gbi anchor, what are
>>>>the dynamics of using shorter chain on a second anchor when setting two
>>>>anchors?  Does it really matter?
>>>>
>>>>B. Wickman
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>__________________________________________________
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