[Rhodes22-list] Chain -- Another Opinion
Bill Effros
bill at effros.com
Mon Jan 16 01:34:09 EST 2006
No, Michael, he's not talking about an all chain rode.
He's talking about using chain in your rode, and if so, how long it
should be. He is saying that the ONLY (that's him shouting, not me)
"the main and ONLY advantage of the chain is that it is the only and
perfect means to avoid chafing of the anchoring rode on aggressive sea
beds..." I agree with him, however I don't anchor on aggressive sea
beds, so I agree with him that I don't need any chain at all--it doesn't
do all the thing people like to claim for it:
It doesn't act as a shock absorber when you need a shock absorber.
It doesn't maintain a catenary curve when you need a catenary curve.
It doesn't function as helper metal when you need helper metal.
It is more likely to pull your anchor out of the bottom the higher the
load on the rode.
He points out that the junction between the rope and the chain
substantially weakens the rope, and that the chain is only as strong as
it's weakest link--i.e. a chain/rope rode is always weaker than an all
rope rode using the same rope.
BTW -- He cautions against over-sizing the rope because it becomes less
elastic as the diameter becomes greater, and it has been his experience
that elasticity is a more important quality than additional strength.
With regard to the amount of chain required, he says this variable
depends on the depth of the water you anchor in, not the size of your
boat. He recommends roughly 75 feet of chain. If we were to follow
this recommendation most of us would be anchoring on all chain, all the
time. Hylas says the only reason to do this is if the bottom is likely
to chew up your rope. He recommends splicing another 225 feet of rope
to the 75 feet of chain.
Hylas also writes, in conclusion:
"I was alarmed to realize than more than half the boats are relying on
what is in my opinion a dangerous rode. (Note - I am not talking about
inadequate anchors here).
Main points are:
A too small, rusted and not secured shackle
The use of beautiful stainless steel anchor connectors. The most common
one has an axle drilled to put a "security " screw on the opposite
side.. although this is a wonderfull idea to avoid unscrewing of the
axle the hole in the middle of the axle decreases the strength. For a 5
tons chain resistance, this connector has only three tons of resistance
... check yours!!!.
Swivels . . . the theory is perfect, but under load, swivels don't work.
More importantly, check their breaking strength, not only with a
straight pull but also with a sideways pull..
Connecting links - these have a breaking strength of only few hundred kg
. . . NEVER use them on a mooring line.
*CONNECTING THE ANCHOR AND CHAIN*
A shackle is perfect. As before, always use one size bigger than the
chain . . .and secure the pin! The simplest and perfect way is to use a
toggle, the same you use for your rigging. Again, use one size bigger
than the chain (12 mm for 10 mm chain)."
Bill Effros
Michel Meltzer wrote:
>He is talking about an all chain rode, and that's the "standard"
>problem",
>That the reason all the "rubber" anchor junk in the marina catalogs.
>Your mooring is also an example of that, chain going to 5/8 or 3/4
>pendant(assuming the standard set up) for around here, even thought
>there is nylon, it to short and way to heavy for the boat to act as any
>thing of shock adsorption, king of like going down the road in a car
>with bad shock, lousy ride :-)
>
>-MJM
>
>PS. His native langue is French(talk to him when I ordered, rally same
>company then). Some of the "tone" will not translate right.
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-
>>bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bill Effros
>>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 7:16 PM
>>To: R22 List
>>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Chain -- Another Opinion
>>
>>I am busily working on a rant, and in the course of my research
>>
>>
>stumbled
>
>
>>across this from the inventor of the Spade anchor:
>>
>>"NB - these are Alain's opinions, and as with all advice you must
>>eventually make up your own mind. He does do a lot of anchoring
>>
>>
>though!
>
>
>>CHAIN OR ROPE?
>>
>>The main and ONLY advantage of the chain is that it is the only and
>>perfect means to avoid chafing of the anchoring rode on aggressive sea
>>beds...
>>
>>Except for this point, chain has all the disadvantages..:
>>
>>Stored in the bow chain locker, it adds a heavy weight in the last
>>
>>
>place
>
>
>>you want one.
>>
>>When deployed, chain is actually working in the the opposite way to
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>way it should work:
>>
>> * with light wind, it gives a perfect horizontal pull to the
>>
>>
>anchor
>
>
>>and the best holding.
>> * with moderate wind, its weight and catenary effect give a
>>
>>
>perfect
>
>
>>shock absorbing effect.
>> * As the wind builds up, the chain will become straighter (and
>>
>>
>this
>
>
>>with as little as 25/30 knots of wind). The pulling angle will
>>
>>
>increase
>
>
>>and as a consequence, the holding of the anchor will decrease.
>> * When the shock absorbing effect is most necessary, the "bar
>>
>>
>tight"
>
>
>>chain will not allow this to happen.
>>
>>If there are waves entering the anchorage, the resulting shocks will
>>
>>
>be
>
>
>>then directly transfered to the anchor, which then has more chance to
>>break free .. . and more seriously, the chain is subject to high
>>
>>
>"peaks"
>
>
>>of pulling force and has a consequently higher risk of breaking.. "
>>
>>
>>Bill Effros
>>
>>
>>__________________________________________________
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>>
>>
>
>__________________________________________________
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>
>
>
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