[Rhodes22-list] Go-To Anchor

[Wallace Buck]

Bill,

I have kept quiet on this go around because the last anchor thread got out 
fo control. :-)

If you remember I said then for my conditions (muddy clay bottom) I found 
chain was not needed and more trouble than it was worth. I use an anchor 
that recommends no chain with nylon rhode...I can't remember the brand and 
it works well. I also have a small mushroom for lunch hook but usually we 
just drift for lunch so it doesn't get used much. I have a danforth knockoff 
with chain in laz but I haven't used it in over 3 years.

Different conditions call for different techniques. It helps to be prepared 
and understand the various anchoring techniques. Some conditions don't 
require chain. I hate dealing with the red clay. Dipping rhode doesn't get 
all of the mud off.

Wally


>From: Bill Effros <bill at effros.com>
>Reply-To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>To: The Rhodes 22 mail list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Go-To Anchor
>Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 01:54:05 -0500
>
>Dennis,
>
>No need to state you're not an expert around here--we don't take expertise 
>in anything too seriously.  You just take a shot and then duck.  Someone 
>will soon tell you, in no uncertain terms, that you're no expert.
>
>Thanks for the tug-test site (even though it didn't come through until the 
>next post).  I've seen the tug test before, but I forgot where it was.  (I 
>had to put the address back together to get to the site.)
>
>For those who didn't go to the site, please note that several of the 
>anchors obtaining the highest ratings did so with all rope rodes, and that 
>the 21 lb. Fortress failed to set at all with a Rope/Chain rode.
>
>The 25 lb. WM did not set either, with an all chain rode.
>
>Nor the 16 lb. Spade with all chain rode.
>
>Out of 17 anchors tested, only 4 set.  3 of the 4 that set had all rope 
>rodes.  The 4th was all chain.  The most powerful set was obtained with an 
>all nylon rope rode.
>
>The tug came to a stop; dropped the anchor and rode overboard, drifted in 
>the wind to set the anchor, and then gradually powered up to test the power 
>of the anchor, and when it would start to drag.  This is exactly the way I 
>learned to set an anchor, as opposed to the PS test method, except that our 
>boat can't generate enough power to drag a properly set anchor.  (The tug 
>had a 1200 hp engine and a 72 inch propeller.)
>
>It turns out Creative Marine didn't care much for the PS tests, either.  
>Quoting from the site Dennis pointed to:
>
>"Tests previously made by Practical Sailor and Powerboat Reports in 
>purported mud were admitted to have been in 18 inches of soup over gravel. 
>This turned out to be a gravel test. The PS/PBR tests have all been flawed 
>in that the anchors tested were always set and pulled with the rode leading 
>ashore where it was attached to a dynamometer. The scopes as a result were 
>equivalent to 100 to I since the rodes were laying on the bottom. The 
>Bruce, CQR, Delta and Danforth types had not been designed as penetrating 
>anchors. Their purpose is to penetrate the bottom on more than two feet. 
>The rodes laying on the bottom favor this type of anchors, and thus the 
>PS/PBR tests showed these anchors to good advantage.
>
>Boaters however seldom extend their anchor rode's scopes to as much as 7 to 
>1, let alone 100 to 1. More likely it is 5 to1 or less. The Max and Super 
>Max anchors were designed to set and penetrate deeper and deeper as more 
>strain is applied. When they are set with a 100 to I scope as in the cases 
>of the PS/PBR tests, they will not perform as they were designed to do. 
>That is why the ABS tests from an actual tugboat showed the true 
>characteristics and capabilities of the anchors tested. The scopes of 6 to 
>I were used for anchors whose manufacturers recommended 7 to 1, since it 
>was the medium between what boaters normally would use, 5 to 1."
>
>Thanks, Dennis.
>
>The prosecution rests.
>
>At least for tonight.
>
>Bill Effros
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Dennis McNeely wrote:
>
>>I don't claim to be an expert - but ran across this link for soft mud
>>anchoring. The site is commercially sponsored, but gives a link to the
>>actual test results for a variety of anchors set and dragged behind a 1200
>>hp tug.
>>
>>Note that the anchors weighted from 16.5 to 52 pounds, but apparently the
>>manufacturers recommend those respective sizes for a boat 33 to 38 feet in
>>length (!)
>>
>>Dennis
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>>[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Bill Effros
>>Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 4:07 PM
>>To: R22 List
>>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Go-To Anchor
>>
>>
>>I set up my anchor rodes with and without chain.  As noted last year I had 
>>more than a dozen anchors on board at one point.  I set up hardware so 
>>that I could quickly snap things together and take them apart.  I expected 
>>to be mixing and matching all summer.  I have anchors and rode all over my 
>>boat.
>>
>>I was very surprised, at some point roughly half way through the summer, 
>>to discover that I kept coming back to the same set-up over and over.
>>
>>My Go-To anchor is a 2 1/2 pound Guardian (made by Fortress, but the less 
>>expensive model), fully assembled, with floating anchor rode (3/8"? 1/2"? 
>>-- I'm not sure), no chain, pre-spliced eye, stored in a Rubbermaid 
>>container under a cockpit seat, not fastened to anything at the bitter 
>>end, deployed from the stern, tied off on a stern cleat, set from the 
>>stern, then walked to the bow.
>>
>>I have removed all vinyl clad anchors from my boat except for the "bullet" 
>>anchors which are essentially nothing more than shaped lead covered with 
>>vinyl.  They weigh 15 lbs each, and can be used as kellets or paper 
>>weights.  So far they have only been tested as paper weights and they are 
>>more than adequate for this task.  The cladding completely defeats the 
>>design of pointy or sharp edged anchors by blunting the points and the 
>>edges.
>>
>>My Go-To anchor is always on board, and always at the ready.  It is easy 
>>to deploy and easy to retrieve.  It always sets properly, and has been 
>>tested in the most extreme conditions I would ever use an anchor.  It has 
>>never come close to starting to deform, and has always been more than 
>>adequate for holding our boat.  It often comes up clean, but if not, a 
>>couple of dunks is all it takes to make it like new.  There hasn't been 
>>any corrosion.  I don't take the time to wash it off after use, I just put 
>>it back under the seat.  I have 2 guardians; the Go-To, and another, 
>>disassembled, in the Laz. and a Fortress FX-7 on the bow, detached from 
>>anchor line in the bow tray.
>>
>>I also have 3 folding grapnels of different sizes, and a "sand screw" for 
>>beaches.
>>
>>As mentioned previously, I have never had the need for anything more than 
>>the Go-To, and doubt I ever will.  I plan to experiment next summer with 
>>variations on "Bahamian" anchoring where you set multiple anchors at 
>>different angles from a single point on board so that when the wind shifts 
>>you drop off one anchor and pull on another.  I believe this set up is 
>>stronger both in terms of rode and ground tackle than a single anchor and 
>>rode with the same rating.  From Ben and Bob's accounts of hurricane 
>>anchoring, and what I have read, I think I would set multiple anchors in 
>>hurricanes and then quickly get off the boat.
>>
>>I kept going for the Go-To because it is so easy to handle.  I still have 
>>plenty of anchor rode with chain, but it always comes up dirty, so I pick 
>>the all rope rode, given my druthers.  The only thing I like about the 
>>chain is that it provides a warning before the anchor breaks out of the 
>>water.  What I don't like is that you can't "feel" the bottom the way you 
>>can with an all rope rode.
>>
>>Bill Effros
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
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