[Rhodes22-list] intro form the guy with the leaky boat, thank for remindi...

[Michel Meltzer]

Rummy is right if it the deck/hull joint, but It did not sound like the
boat has been in that water yet. Water can travel in very strange ways;
I would subjects the hose test. Put someone in the boat with a
flashlight and paper towels, close it up, and starting from the top down
go from fitting to fitting with a garden hose holding it on each
location for about a minute, see what leacks. The chain plates(the
stainless that the stays attach to) and port light are the high odd's,
but you really need to take the time and do it systematic, it could be
coming from any hardware/fastener going thought the deck. The boat is
old enough that the "bedding" has dryied out and cracked on anything and
everything.

-mjm  

> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-
> bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of R22RumRunner at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 8:49 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] intro form the guy with the leaky
boat,thank
> for remindi...
> 
> Great introduction, now for the fix. The top deck and hull come
together
> beneath the rub rail. The fix is to remove the rubber part of the rub
> rail. This
> will expose either the plastic or aluminum (depending on year) base of
the
> rub  rail. It is most likely pop riveted in place. Drill out the heads
of
> the
> rivets  and you will be able to remove the base.
> You will notice the base piece has a lip which curls under the joint.
> Clean
> the area of any old sealant and dirt and I would recommend a final
> cleaning
> with  a good solvent. Once the area is clean and dry, I would
recommend
> sealing
> it  with a one part polyurethane sealant like a product called NP1. It
is
> available  at most roofing supply company's and Sherwin William stores
> have their
> own  brand. If you can't find it, anything that is a one part
polyurethane
> will  suffice. It is sticky like nothing else and remains pliable for
> twelve
> years in  extreme weather conditions. Great for using on boats.
> Instead of applying it to the seam with a trailing motion, you will
apply
> it
> with the nozzle facing forward, forcing sealant into the joint. I
found
> cutting the tip off flat further down and then notching it with a V
was an
> easy
> way to apply it. Place a small bead on the lip of the base and
reinstall
> with
> pop rivets. You will find the old pop rivets inside the cabin for some
> time
> to come.
> Now for the real question. I am going to assume that you have actually
> sailed the boat and buried the rail enough to force water in the hull
in
> this
> manner. Rain water is not likely to enter the boat through this joint.
If
> it is,
> then you have a problem with a completely different fix.
> I hope this helps. If you need further assistance, please ask.
> 
> Rrrrrrrrrrummy
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