[Rhodes22-list] Captain Peter Thorn - Was: Champion Sailboat Racer: Now Lower Unit

Jim White lemenagerie22 at yahoo.com
Wed May 3 08:17:00 EDT 2006


Dave:
  Changing out the gear oil in the lower unit is a relatively simple matter. Take out both screws (you'll see 'em, they're big flat flush screws on the top and lower part of the lower unit) and drain out the old oil into a pan (dispose of properly), then fill the lower unit forcing in oil from the bottom hole until it just starts to flow out of the top.
   
  They make a pretty cool little cheap pump that threads onto the bottle of L/U oil and  into most L/U bottom holes to help do this. When the oil just starts to flow out of the top hole, put the screw back in (make sure the gasket is OK...if it requires one), then remove the oil filler nozzle (or threaded gizmo), and quickly insert the bottom screw...since the top screw was already in place you shouldn't lose but a few drops of new oil. Tighten the screws, and presto, you're done.
   
  Of course, as Bud mentioned, you want to check for water. If you've recently run the motor it'll look sort of creamy, definately not like oil should. My last bay boat had a 25 Evinrude that had a cracked flange where the prop seal is, and constantly leaked water, salt water too, into the L/U. I changed oil every time I took it out (which was a lot in those days), because I couldn't find a used L/U around here....I did this for maybe five years, with no problem, sold the boat, and as far as I know the new owner is still running that engine doing the same thing! (lol)...BTW it was a 1989 model, and all I ever did was change the plugs, waterpump impeller and make periodically dig the deposits out of the waterjacket openings....of course it got flushed in fresh water every trip too....
   
  Good luck!
   
  jw

Bud <budconnor at earthlink.net> wrote:
  Dave,
change the gear oil in the lower unit the next time the boat/motor is 
out of the water.
Your marina can do it for you, probably around $35. And if water comes 
out with the
gear oil, then take the motor to your Yamaha dealer ASAP. It means one 
of your seals
are damaged. And while they are replacing the seal, have them replace 
the pump impeller -
it's cheap and easy for them once they have the lower unit apart.

-Bud

DCLewis1 at aol.com wrote:

>Dave,
> 
>We got a used Yamaha 9.9 with our boat, I gather from your post you got a 
>9.9 also. When Elton delivered our boat he had no info with him about the 
>motor, but he promised to check his stuff when he got back to Edenton and send us 
>a copy of whatever he found. I haven't heard back and I've bugged once - 
>I'm sure he's more than busy this time of year.
> 
>Lacking info from Elton, I've looked on the Yamaha website for info and 
>found they have decades of motors, different lines of motors, etc - they've 
>made a lot of motors over the years. Unfortunately, I don't know the year of 
>our motor, class (e.g. high thrust, or what), etc; all I know is that it's 
>rated at 9.9 hp, long shaft, four stroke. Lacking specific info, I can't really 
>sort through their smorgasbord of manuals, etc.
> 
>Can you tell me anything about your motor? Year? Model? It might help me 
>find our model on the Yamaha website. Clearly, I'm grasping at straws and 
>assuming your motor maps to ours.
> 
>I have zero background with outboards. Do you know how to check the oil on 
>your motor? How to add oil? How to pop the cowling? Any other routine 
>checks and maintenance that should be done? Any info will be appreciated. The 
>motor starts and runs well, but I won't be comfortable with it until I know 
>how to maintain it and at least the rudiments of how to fix it.
> 
>DaveL
> 
>__________________________________________________
>Use Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help? www.rhodes22.org/list
>
>
> 
>
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Jim White
Le Menagerie
www.lemenagerie.blogspot.com
		
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