[Rhodes22-list] Anchoring - general comments - retry

[Robert Skinner]

My original post was returned as being SPAM:
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It is not, nor do I send spam, so I am retrying.
/Robert
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Bill Effros wrote:
> ... Grapnels are good for grabbing onto things and
> holding, but they do a lot of damage, and can
> get dislodged.

Agreed.  I keep a cheap folding one on board 
as a lunch hook and for snagging and retrieving 
objects from the bottom.
 
> I like Fortress anchors.  You can take them apart so you can easily stow
> a bunch of them on board...

Also agreed,  A Fortress is one of the most 
versatile anchors you can have aboard, and 
they do very well in sand/soft bottoms.  I
have one on board as the biggest storm
anchor.

> If you drop 2 anchors widely apart and point the
> flukes in different directions you can maintain
> tension on one or the other at all times
> regardless of wind or current shifts...

The Bahamian mooring is very useful at times.  
I carry a cheap Hooker danforth-style as a 
working anchor, and deploy the Fortress as a 
second anchor in case of bad weather.  The 
double-anchor has two possible problems:

*  The rodes can become tangled if 
   you rotate around 360 degrees.

*  If you are in a crowded anchorage, 
   your boat will not swing with the 
   others, and may cause trouble.

> Your only problem is freeing the anchor--once
> the wind hits a certain velocity, your motor
> can't move the boat forward so that you can get
> directly above the anchor and release it...

Bill's point about the difficulty of 
retrieval is something to consider.  This 
is an excellent time to consider just how
much you want to have invested in your 
working anchor.  There are some conditions 
under which you may want to cut it loose,
and not worry about how many bux you are
leaving on the bottom.

Most anchors have a place where you can 
attach a trip line.  Having a trip line 
attached to a fender makes it easier to 
pull it loose once you get near enough 
to het a boathook on it.  Takes 
forethought, though.

Another retrieval system consists of a 
ring that you can clip around the rode.  
It slides down the rode and onto the 
shank of the anchor, letting you pull 
the anchor out backwards - once you get 
upwind/uptide of it.  

Finally, up here in Maine, we have a lot 
of rocky bottoms.  A cheap claw anchor is 
a good choice for these -- but without a 
trip line, even with a retrieval ring, you 
have to be ready to say goodby to your 
anchor now and then.

-- 
Robert Skinner               "Squirrel Haven"
9 Gateway Commons, Gorham, Maine   04038-1331

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> 
> petelargo wrote:
> > This is my irregular regular check in. First thanks to all for input on
> > anchoring. I have not done my second nite out yet, but I will be getting my
> > second anchor for sure first. That leads me to my first question as I
> > starting looking into the many types and prices of anchors can be
> > overwhelming to a newcomer. I am trying to learn more about them. What types
> > of anchors are people using and why? Are there any that you especially
> > didn't like?
> >
> > A couple of answers to Mr. Rummy. Yes I did wax the hull. I still had a
> > faded area on the starboard side. Suggestions for fading? Yes, I have 10
> > feet of chain on the rode. And yes I guess my boat now has character with
> > 'the scratch'. My mom tried the 'character' approach after I rode into a
> > parked truck with my brand new bike when I was 5.  I didn't buy it then
> > either.
> >
> > Next, my hatch lock just broke. So I thought I would pop it out and replace
> > it. Guess what 'no popping'. I cannot see how to easily get to the underside
> > of that hatch top. It slides back and forth, but I can;t see how to slide it
> > out to get to those screws. Do I actually have to remove the rails? Yikes.
> > Let me know.
> >
> > I jumped in the water after two months to inspect the hull after sitting in
> > salt water for two months. I was very impressed by the lack of algae etc.
> > Some light brushing and I was done. Nice.