[Rhodes22-list] Trailer bunk replacement

[Michael D. Weisner]

Rob,

The trailer actually looks pretty good for the age.  If you wet the lumber 
periodically and park the trailer in the sun, the wood should bend close to 
the proper shape, the way that you have the straps affixed.

I used a good grade of I/O carpet with a very low nap when I recovered my 
bunks.  Don't forget to add an extra piece over the bolts before covering 
the rest of the bunk.  I used 1/4" Stainless Steel staples to anchor the 
carpet using an Arrow T-50.  The carpet texture is more like a "felt" than a 
"grass" and has held up really well, much better than the original.

While you are working on the trailer, you should have a welder add some 1/4" 
material to the inside of the "V" (middle of the trailer) to strengthen the 
joint.  If the trailer is to fail, it starts there.  I had plates welded 
from the center out to restore the structural integrity on my Triad.  I also 
had to replace the vertical plates that attach the wood (rear guides and 
keel guides) right near the CB roller.  They had rusted away and were 
replaced with angle iron material.  I also added plates (washers) and new 
hitch clips to prevent losing the roller (it fell out, once, while driving 
home.)  I also had problems with severe rust in the extension tongue and had 
to replace it.  Check your extension and the receptacle for it since this 
can be catastrophic if it fails during launching.  I also use a long safety 
chain during launching to prevent trailer runaway.

When I get home tonight, I'll get some pix and measure the distances.

Mike
s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
Nissequogue River, NY

From: "Lowe, Rob" <rlowe at vt.edu>Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 3:33 PM
> The wooden bunks on my 30+ year trailer were rotting and about ready to
> break.  I replaced the boards with new 2 X 6 pressure treated lumber.
> Figured I post some pictures should anyone else face the same situation.
>
>
>
>
> I bought 3 - 12 foot pieces of lumber.  The two bunks are right at 12
> feet long so I didn't need to cut them at all.  The two guides were made
> from a single 12 foot long piece cut into appropriate lengths.  The old
> hardware (1/2 inch bolts) were rusted solid so I had to cut them off
> with a reciprocating saw.   The original bolts had just a lock washer
> between the bolt head and the wood.  I added a regular washer and
> countersunk the bolt head (connections).  After mounting all the wood,
> the bunks looked kind of funny since they were straight across and not
> bowed, so I added some tie down straps to force the bunks to bow
> (straps).  The bolts that hold the bunks in place are left loose to
> allow the boards to move further once the boat is loaded.  I'll tighten
> them up once I pull in the fall.  Now one question I do have, if any of
> you have your trailer close by, can  you measure the distance between
> the two guide pieces (guides)?  I want to make sure that I left enough
> room for the keel to fit.  Lastly, I took a picture of the whole
> trailer, you can see what 30 years looks like (overall).
>
>
>
> I still need to add carpet to the bunks and guides.  I checked the
> marine stores, but that stuff's not cheap.  Anyone got any suggestions?
> Does regular carpet work?  Maybe the indoor/outdoor stuff?
>
>
>
> Rob Lowe
>
> S/V Getaway
>
> 1976 Rhodes 22
>
>
>
>
>
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