[Rhodes22-list] Tangent Topping Lift Question
Michael D. Weisner
mweisner at ebsmed.com
Fri Mar 7 16:47:59 EST 2008
Elle,
This is from Don Casey, the expert on such do-it-yourself repair:
http://express27.org/articles/stoppingleaks
A portion of the definitive book on the subject, "Sailboat Hull and Deck
Repair" by Don Casey, is available on line through Google with a 15 page
preview at:
http://books.google.com/books?id=isEFQaXQ9vwC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Sailboat+Hull+and+Deck+Repair&ei=ILbRR6GEKYTCyQTbnaWwBQ&sig=mjkFvcOvtAR76hvo2wUaQk29X7I
Check out page 10 "Rebedding Deck Hardware" and "A Useful Hybrid" addresses
some of the problems associated with plastic portlights.
As far as timing, it is easier to perform all of the prep at once and then
apply all of the sealant at once. This minimizes cleanup times and waster
of sealant material. I was able to remove, clean and rebuild (epoxy fill)
all portlights and hardware in one day. I then allowed the epoxy to set for
1 week and then resealed and reassembled all items.
Mike
s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
Nissequogue River, NY
From: "elle" <watermusic38 at yahoo.com>Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 4:26 PM
>I also have one leaky port....what is a good source to read & see pix obout
>how to remove, clean, rebed, etc?
>
> Can one port be done entirely in one day, assuming the doer is relatively
> intelligent & facile, and forward thinking enuf to have all supplies at
> hand??
>
>
> elle
>
> Fred Kaiser <fkaiser at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> I am re-bedding all port and starboard ports. A couple were leaking
> last season and we decided to re-bed all. They have been removed,
> cleaned up from residual sealant, the spider cracks around the screw
> holes sealed with epoxy and I'm waiting for warmer weather to re-bed
> using Life Seal Sealant.
>
> Fred
> 1991 R22 Fretless
> Rock Hall, MD
>
>
> At 01:24 PM 3/7/2008, you wrote:
>>Mary Lou,
>>
>>Why the blue tape around the windows? Are you re-bedding the the windows?
>>
>>Hank
>>
>>
>>On 3/7/08, Mary Lou Troy wrote:
>> >
>> > Just got to the boat and back before the rain.
>> >
>> > Here is the portside turning block. Topping lift comes from the
>> > masthead and through this block to the cam cleat on the cabin top.
>> > One screw on the padeye also holds the plate for the tang for the aft
>> > lower. The other is just into the fiberglass.
>> >
>> > Mary Lou
>> > 1991 R22 Fretless
>> > Rock Hall, MD
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > At 12:22 PM 3/7/2008, you wrote:
>> > >Hank (and John),
>> > >Our masthead has double sheaves on the front of the mast and double
>> > >sheaves aft. Our topping lift runs from the boom end to the aft
>> > >masthead sheave, over the front sheave and down to a block on the
>> > >port side near the base of the aft lower stay (I'm going to have to
>> > >go look at the boat to see exactly where this is) and from that block
>> > >to a cam cleat on the port side cabin top. It works well. You can see
>> > >the cam cleat on the cabin top in the attached pic.
>> > >
>> > >Mary Lou
>> > >1991 R22 Fretless
>> > >Rock Hall, MD
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >At 11:42 AM 3/7/2008, you wrote:
>> > > >While we are on the topic of topping lifts, how do most of your run
>> > > >the
>> > free
>> > > >end of the topping lift? With the way the sheave is situated, it
>> > > >comes
>> > out
>> > > >inside the mast and I am afraid of it getting wraped up in the main.
>> > > >
>> > > >Actually this happened once and we had to drop the mast to fix
>> > it. Since
>> > > >then, I have run some rigging tape around the mast below the sheave
>> > > >and
>> > the
>> > > >topping lift now goes outside of that so that it stays away from the
>> > > >furler.
>> > > >
>> > > >Hank
>> > > >
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> > Name: port turning block1.jpg
>> > Type: image/jpeg
>> > Size: 329244 bytes
>> > Desc: not available
>> > Url :
>> >
>> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20080307/aae6c7c1/attachment.jpg
>> > __________________________________________________
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>
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>
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>
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