[Rhodes22-list] Tangent Topping Lift Question

R22RumRunner at aol.com R22RumRunner at aol.com
Fri Mar 7 21:09:12 EST 2008


Elle,
The post to the list was approximately two years ago and was done by Steve  
Little, IIRC. His method involved using large wooden wedges and sharpened putty 
 knives. I remember something about other wooden blocks used to spread the  
pressure out from using pry bars also. You can do exactly one port per day. 
Removing it is time consuming, but cleaning up the area afterwards takes a  
lot of elbow grease and cleaner. An absolutely clean, flat surface is 
mandatory,  on both the decking and the port. Good luck. Perhaps someone who stores all 
the  important postings by category will recall this discussion. Using 
massive  quantities of alcohol may slow the procedure down somewhat.
 
Rummy
 
 
In a message dated 3/7/2008 8:57:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
watermusic38 at yahoo.com writes:

Mike,

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. 

It  probably doesn't seem like a big deal to you guys,
but it looks as if this  will  be my first big boat
project....;^)

elle


---  "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:

>  Elle,
> 
> This is from Don Casey, the expert on such
>  do-it-yourself repair:
>  http://express27.org/articles/stoppingleaks
> 
> A portion of the  definitive book on the subject,
> "Sailboat Hull and Deck 
>  Repair" by Don Casey, is available on line through
> Google with a 15  page 
> preview at:  
>
http://books.google.com/books?id=isEFQaXQ9vwC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Sailboat+
Hull+and+Deck+Repair&ei=ILbRR6GEKYTCyQTbnaWwBQ&sig=mjkFvcOvtAR76hvo2wUaQk29X7I
>  
> Check out page 10 "Rebedding Deck Hardware" and "A
> Useful  Hybrid" addresses 
> some of the problems associated with  plastic
> portlights.
> 
> As far as timing, it is easier to  perform all of the
> prep at once and then 
> apply all of the  sealant at once.  This minimizes
> cleanup times and waster  
> of sealant material.  I was able to remove, clean
> and  rebuild (epoxy fill) 
> all portlights and hardware in one day.  I  then
> allowed the epoxy to set for 
> 1 week and then resealed  and reassembled all items.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Shanghai'd Summer  ('81)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> 
> From: "elle"  <watermusic38 at yahoo.com>Sent: Friday,
> March 07, 2008 4:26  PM
> >I also have one leaky port....what is a good source
> to  read & see pix obout 
> >how to remove, clean, rebed,  etc?
> >
> >  Can one port be done entirely in one  day,
> assuming the doer is relatively 
> > intelligent &  facile, and forward thinking enuf to
> have all supplies at 
>  > hand??
> >
> >
> >  elle
>  >
> > Fred Kaiser <fkaiser at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
>  >  I am re-bedding all port and starboard ports. A
> couple were  leaking
> > last season and we decided to re-bed all. They
>  have been removed,
> > cleaned up from residual sealant, the  spider
> cracks around the screw
> > holes sealed with epoxy  and I'm waiting for warmer
> weather to re-bed
> > using Life  Seal Sealant.
> >
> > Fred
> > 1991 R22  Fretless
> > Rock Hall, MD
> >
> >
> > At  01:24 PM 3/7/2008, you wrote:
> >>Mary Lou,
>  >>
> >>Why the blue tape around the windows? Are you
>  re-bedding the the windows?
> >>
> >>Hank
>  >>
> >>
> >>On 3/7/08, Mary Lou Troy  wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Just got to the boat and  back before the rain.
> >> >
> >> > Here is the  portside turning block. Topping
> lift comes from the
> >>  > masthead and through this block to the cam
> cleat on the cabin  top.
> >> > One screw on the padeye also holds the  plate
> for the tang for the aft
> >> > lower. The other  is just into the fiberglass.
> >> >
> >> > Mary  Lou
> >> > 1991 R22 Fretless
> >> > Rock Hall,  MD
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
>  >> >
> >> > At 12:22 PM 3/7/2008, you wrote:
>  >> > >Hank (and John),
> >> > >Our masthead has  double sheaves on the front
> of the mast and double
> >>  > >sheaves aft. Our topping lift runs from the
> boom end to the  aft
> >> > >masthead sheave, over the front sheave  and
> down to a block on the
> >> > >port side near  the base of the aft lower stay
> (I'm going to have to
> >>  > >go look at the boat to see exactly where this
> is) and from  that block
> >> > >to a cam cleat on the port side cabin  top. It
> works well. You can see
> >> > >the cam  cleat on the cabin top in the attached
> pic.
> >> >  >
> >> > >Mary Lou
> >> > >1991 R22  Fretless
> >> > >Rock Hall, MD
> >> >  >
> >> > >
> >> > >At 11:42 AM  3/7/2008, you wrote:
> >> > > >While we are on the topic  of topping lifts,
> how do most of your run 
> >> > >  >the
> >> > free
> >> > > >end of the  topping lift? With the way the
> sheave is situated, it 
>  >> > > >comes
> >> > out
> >> >  > >inside the mast and I am afraid of it
> getting wraped up in  the main.
> >> > > >
> >> > >  >Actually this happened once and we had to
> drop the mast to  fix
> >> > it. Since
> >> > > >then, I  have run some rigging tape around
> the mast below the sheave 
>  >> > > >and
> >> > the
> >> >  > >topping lift now goes outside of that so
> that it stays away  from the
> >> > > >furler.
> >> > >  >
> >> > > >Hank
> >> > >  >
> >> > -------------- next part --------------
>  >> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> >  Name: port turning block1.jpg
> >> > Type: image/jpeg
>  >> > Size: 329244 bytes
> >> > Desc: not  available
> >> > Url :
> >> >
>  >>
>
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20080307/aae6c7c1/
attachment.jpg
>  >> >
>  __________________________________________________
> >> > Use  Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org, Help?
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>  >> >
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> >>
> >>--
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> Release  Date:
> >>3/7/2008 8:15 AM
> >
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>  >
> >
> >
> > We can't change the angle of the  wind....but we
> can adjust our sails.
> >
> > 1992  Rhodes 22   Recyc '06  "WaterMusic"   (Lady
>  in Red)
> >
> > ---------------------------------
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> 
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>  


We can't change the angle of the wind....but we can adjust our  sails.

1992 Rhodes 22   Recyc '06   "WaterMusic"   (Lady in Red)


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