[Rhodes22-list] Navigation 101 -- Chapter 1 -- Compasses
Bill Effros
bill at effros.com
Wed Sep 17 10:22:42 EDT 2008
Lee,
You had it right the first time. Better to check me out -- sometimes I
just make stuff up.
B.
KUHN, LELAND wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I didn't think you knew what you were talking about so I looked it up:
>
> http://www.ablboats.com/story.php?id=24/The-Compass-Up-close-and-persona
> l/
>
> Apparently you do know what you're talking about. :)
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Effros [mailto:bill at effros.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 12:20 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation 101 -- Chapter 1 -- Compasses
>
> Herb,
>
> The magnets in all compasses vary. While location on a boat will surely
>
> influence each compass, if you move "identical" compasses into the same
> location they will not yield identical deviation tables.
>
> The thing that really drives them nuts is when the compass, or the
> compass sensor, is not mounted absolutely in the same direction the boat
>
> is pointing. They then try to adjust that compass using another which
> actually is pointing in the same direction as the boat. By the time
> they figure out the problem, neither compass is usable anymore.
>
> (Modern compasses have little adjuster magnets inside to level out the
> deviation. Once they get way out of whack, it take less time and money
> to buy a new, factory adjusted compass than to try to straighten out the
>
> compass on hand without factory calibrating tools.)
>
> BE
>
>
>
>
>
> Herb Parsons wrote:
>
>> Isn't it fun how you can get 3 different knowledgeable people with
>>
> three
>
>> different opinions?
>>
>> Actually, I side with Bill on this one, with one major difference.
>>
>> The deviation for a compass is not the particular compass, it's the
>> location of the particular compass on a particular boat.
>>
>> Everything that attracts a magnet on your boat will affect your
>>
> compass,
>
>> and it WILL vary on different sail points. When you create your
>>
> charts,
>
>> you enter your compass' deviation on the various compass points.
>>
>> And if you don't think it can vary widely on different points, imagine
>>
>
>
>> this scenario.
>>
>> You have nice big diesel just a little aft of where your compass is
>> mounted. Because of its iron content, it pulls your compass. When you
>> head due south, your compass will likely read pretty true, since the
>> motor is pulling the needle the same direction as the magnetic pole
>> pulls it, north.
>>
>> Tunr 90 to port and head 90 true, you can bet your compass is going to
>>
>
>
>> be off, because the motor is pulling the needle north.
>>
>> Make sense?
>>
>> Bill Effros wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Hank,
>>>
>>> Try it with boat compasses on your boat. Report back. See what
>>>
> others
>
>>> have to say.
>>>
>>> We are not talking about variation here, which is constant in a given
>>>
>
>
>>> area, although constantly changing and noted on charts.
>>>
>>> We are talking about deviation, which is specific to each individual
>>> compass, and can be 10 degrees off in one direction at one point of
>>> sail, and 10 degrees off in another direction on another point of
>>>
> sail.
>
>>> It's hard to believe until you see it, and the easiest way to see it
>>>
> is
>
>>> using 2 compasses which will not stay synchronized as you swing your
>>>
> boat.
>
>>> Try it on a boat with boat compasses.
>>>
>>> BE
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hank wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Bill,
>>>>
>>>> Having been responsible for calibrating many aircraft compasses I
>>>>
> have to
>
>>>> disagree with you. If a compass is off by ten degrees, say it reads
>>>>
> 260
>
>>>> instead of 270, then it will be consistently off by the same margin
>>>>
> around
>
>>>> the card. In aircraft, for a simple mag compass, we don't actually
>>>> calibrate it, we take it to the compass rose, start it up with all
>>>>
> normal
>
>>>> systems running and then move it around the circle. With this we
>>>>
> create a
>
>>>> deviation card where all the cardinal points are marked. I've never
>>>>
> seen
>
>>>> more than a 2 degree difference in error around the card.
>>>>
>>>> In this case, an inaccurate compass is fine for determining tacking
>>>>
> points
>
>>>> as it will be consistently off on either tack.
>>>>
>>>> Hank
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Sep 16, 2008 at 3:03 PM, Bill Effros <bill at effros.com>
>>>>
> wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Lee,
>>>>>
>>>>> It is important for the pointing discussion.
>>>>>
>>>>> Few compasses are ever checked. As soon as you check, you are
>>>>>
> stunned
>
>>>>> by the deviation.
>>>>>
>>>>> If you are trying to determine how high you can point, and your
>>>>>
> compass
>
>>>>> is off by 10 degrees in each direction (not uncommon) you really
>>>>>
> don't
>
>>>>> have the slightest idea how high you can point, or where the true
>>>>>
> wind
>
>>>>> is coming from.
>>>>>
>>>>> You spend a lot of time and effort adjusting sails before spending
>>>>>
> far
>
>>>>> less time adjusting your compass.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sailing at night or in fog it is very important to be able to trust
>>>>>
> your
>
>>>>> compass. Becoming disoriented is amazing if it has never happened
>>>>>
> to
>
>>>>> you. You start to insist that the compass is wrong. If you are
>>>>>
> not
>
>>>>> sure the compass is right, you can easily believe it is wrong.
>>>>>
>>>>> A power boater went to the hospital last weekend by grounding not
>>>>>
> 300
>
>>>>> yards from my boat. It was low tide. The rescue crew was able to
>>>>>
> walk
>
>>>>> to his boat from "land". He was using a GPS. 4 hours earlier he
>>>>> wouldn't have totaled his boat. He was going in the right
>>>>>
> direction,
>
>>>>> but he was a few degrees off course.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Effros
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> KUHN, LELAND wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "If, after taking a few different readings your compasses are
>>>>>>
> wildly
>
>>>>>> off, report your results here, and we will go to Chapter 2."
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Just last week a guy at my marina with a big Morgan was
>>>>>>
> complaining
>
>>>>>> about needing to get his compass recalibrated. I was shocked that
>>>>>> magnetic compasses could be significantly inaccurate. I was even
>>>>>>
> more
>
>>>>>> shocked that the calibration was much more expensive than the cost
>>>>>>
> of my
>
>>>>>> compass new, and I thought I had an expensive compass.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't know if my compass is accurate. When it says 270 I feel
>>>>>>
> like
>
>>>>>> I'm going west. If I were bluewatering it to Hawaii I'd probably
>>>>>>
> want
>
>>>>>> to ensure I'd be heading in the right direction, but accuracy
>>>>>>
> isn't too
>
>>>>>> important if you're just trying to maintain a straight tack to
>>>>>>
> nowhere.
>
>>>>>> Lee
>>>>>> 1986 Rhodes22 At Ease
>>>>>> Kent Island, MD
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: Bill Effros [mailto:bill at effros.com]
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 10:42 AM
>>>>>> To: R22 List
>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation 101 -- Chapter 1 -- Compasses
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Todd,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Navigation is still one of my favorite topics.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> OK, let's start while most of us are still on the water.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There is discussion today about pointing and 45 degrees and 110
>>>>>>
> degrees.
>
>>>>>> These are compass directions.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How are these numbers derived by the writers?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> (Serious question -- want answers.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Throw out your GPS. The GPS measures the direction the device has
>>>>>> traveled, not the direction the boat is pointing.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How are the writers determining true wind direction?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How many compasses do you have on board. (You must have at least
>>>>>>
> 2.)
>
>>>>>> Fluxgate compasses don't count -- they yield very precise wrong
>>>>>>
> answers.
>
>>>>>> Homework Assignment:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mount 2 magnetic compasses far enough away from large metal
>>>>>>
> objects and
>
>>>>>> electronics so they can swing freely. (If one is hand bearing,
>>>>>>
> that's
>
>>>>>> fine, as long as you can read it in 5 degree increments while the
>>>>>> compass is mounted in a stationary position.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Point your boat so your main compass is at 0.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Turn your other compass so it points to exactly 180.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now turn your boat so your main compass points to 90. Your other
>>>>>> compass should point to exactly 270. Does it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Whether it does, or not, note the readings on both compasses.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If, after taking a few different readings your compasses are
>>>>>>
> wildly off,
>
>>>>>> report your results here, and we will go to Chapter 2.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the readings remain almost 180 degrees in phase, no matter what
>>>>>> direction you point, make a chart showing all compass readings at
>>>>>>
> 5
>
>>>>>> degree differences.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> True virgins can't be far behind.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill Effros
>>>>>>
>>>>>> PS -- If anyone gets serious about this, it's a great opportunity
>>>>>>
> to set
>
>>>>>> and use multiple anchors. If you set 4 and move lines from cleat
>>>>>>
> to
>
>>>>>> cleat, you can adjust the angle of your boat to the primary
>>>>>>
> compass with
>
>>>>>> extreme precision, while learning a lot about the setting
>>>>>>
> qualities of
>
>>>>>> anchors. It doesn't matter if an anchor fails to set properly --
>>>>>>
> you
>
>>>>>> are testing the compass, not the anchor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Todd Tavares wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill, Good to see you back on the list. Didn't you make us all a
>>>>>>> promise? I am still waiting. LOL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
> http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2005-April/022296.html
>
>>>>>>> Todd T
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>> From: "Bill Effros"
>>>>>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] anchoring
>>>>>>> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:05:34 -0400
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Elle,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was hoping Slim would weigh in on your situation. He has has
>>>>>>>
> to
>
>>>>>>> deal
>>>>>>> with similar problems.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't use chain except on rode purchased before I stopped
>>>>>>>
> using
>
>>>>>>> chain.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You can't "set" chain. When it hits the bottom, it just lies
>>>>>>>
> there
>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> in
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> pool. It is exactly the same as dropping the chain into the
>>>>>>>
> R-22
>
>>>>>>> anchor
>>>>>>> locker. It forms a pyramid of chain with the unset anchor
>>>>>>>
> dangling
>
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>> it on one side, or buried under it, and the rope rode dangling
>>>>>>>
> from
>
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>> on the other.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I use floating anchor rode directly attached to the anchor. If
>>>>>>>
> you
>
>>>>>>> drop
>>>>>>> a penny overboard it's going to sink until it hits the bottom.
>>>>>>>
> If
>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> you
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> drop a 2 1/2 lb aluminum anchor overboard, it will also sink
>>>>>>>
> until
>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> it
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> hits the bottom.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you tie a floating rope to that aluminum anchor, you will
>>>>>>>
> see no
>
>>>>>>> rope
>>>>>>> on the surface of the water until the anchor hits the bottom,
>>>>>>>
> and
>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> excess rope exceeds the straight line angle from where you are
>>>>>>> deploying
>>>>>>> the anchor. At that point you start pulling in excess rope off
>>>>>>>
> the
>
>>>>>>> surface until the angle going into the water is roughly 45
>>>>>>>
> degrees.
>
>>>>>>> Then just hold onto the line as the wind or your motor drives
>>>>>>>
> your
>
>>>>>>> boat,
>>>>>>> and a good anchor will set itself properly. Cleat the line, and
>>>>>>>
> you
>
>>>>>>> should not be able to move that anchor until you get almost
>>>>>>>
> directly
>
>>>>>>> above it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I always do this from the stern. I "fish" for the bottom, and
>>>>>>>
> "set"
>
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> anchor. Because there is only floating line between me and the
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> anchor
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> can "feel" what is going on, and I can see from floating line
>>>>>>>
> on the
>
>>>>>>> surface whether my anchor is truly "set" or if I am just
>>>>>>>
> "dragging"
>
>>>>>>> it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's a lot like fishing.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Once set, I walk the line to the bow and cleat it to the bow
>>>>>>>
> cleat.
>
>>>>>>> If leaves are truly a problem, and I don't know because I don't
>>>>>>> experience that problem when I anchor, I would use a kellet to
>>>>>>>
> bring
>
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> sharp lightweight anchor all the way to the bottom on the all
>>>>>>>
> rope
>
>>>>>>> rode. Then I would experiment with how far to withdraw the
>>>>>>>
> kellet in
>
>>>>>>> order to set the tines of the anchor most reliably. Then I
>>>>>>>
> would
>
>>>>>>> withdraw the kellet completely, and "feel" the set of the
>>>>>>>
> anchor in
>
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> way I normally do it. You don't have to "feel" the set many
>>>>>>>
> times
>
>>>>>>> before you know exactly what it is supposed to feel like when
>>>>>>>
> it is
>
>>>>>>> permanently set.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've wasted a lot of time waiting to see if it would unset, and
>>>>>>>
> it
>
>>>>>>> never
>>>>>>> has.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't know of anyone who has tried the "floating the mushroom
>>>>>>> anchor
>>>>>>> into place" theory, but I think it would be fun to try. I know
>>>>>>>
> that
>
>>>>>>> mushroom anchor won't move once properly set, and I also know
>>>>>>>
> how to
>
>>>>>>> use
>>>>>>> a Rhodes 22 to move the anchor if I need to do so.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Like me, I would guess your biggest problem in storm conditions
>>>>>>>
> is
>
>>>>>>> other
>>>>>>> boats, not your ability to keep your boat in a place where it
>>>>>>>
> can
>
>>>>>>> easily
>>>>>>> withstand the elements.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill Effros
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> elle wrote:
>>>>>>> > HI, Bill, I was hoping that you would also weigh in on this
>>>>>>> > matter...would you give me your recommendation? Again, the
>>>>>>>
> bottm
>
>>>>>>> > is mud IF we can get through the leaves, and the cove is
>>>>>>> > protected; storm surge is often a factor but @20' of chain &
>>>>>>> > @200' of 5/16 rode hopefully is sufficient overkill...
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> > Opinion?
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> > Thanks, elle
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> > We can't change the angle of the wind....but we can adjust
>>>>>>>
> our
>
>>>>>>> sails.
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> > 1992 Rhodes 22 Recyc '06 "WaterMusic" (Lady in Red)
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> > --- On Mon, 9/15/08, Bill Effros wrote:
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> >
>>>>>>> >> From: Bill Effros
>>>>>>> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] anchoring
>>>>>>> >> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
>>>>>>> >> Date: Monday, September 15, 2008, 11:47 AM
>>>>>>> >> Peter,
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> What difference do think the weight of a boat implies for
>>>>>>> >> the size of the anchor?
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> I would imagine windage is the factor.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> No matter what they weigh, all boats float.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> If weight were the factor, the size of a battleship anchor
>>>>>>> >> in proportion to it's weight would be substantially less
>>>>>>>
> than the
>
>>>>>>> >> size anchor most people carry on their Rhodes 22s.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> Someone recently told me that if you take away wind and
>>>>>>> >> current, a 25 lb Fortress anchor will hold an aircraft
>>>>>>>
> carrier.
>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> I've never tried it, though.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> As I've often mentioned, a 2 1/2 lb Fortress Guardian
>>>>>>> >> is my go-to anchor. I set it from the stern, and walk it
>>>>>>> >> forward. Once properly set, it is extremely difficult to
>>>>>>> >> dislodge until you get
>>>>>>> >> almost directly above it. There is never enough windage on
>>>>>>>
> my
>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> boat
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> >> deform the anchor, part the line, challenge the shackle.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> My boat is moored on a 300 lb mushroom anchor as are
>>>>>>> >> virtually all of the boats in the cove where I keep my boat.
>>>>>>> (There are
>>>>>>> >> hundreds.)
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> The cove has been hit by strong winds from time to time,
>>>>>>> >> but few move from their moorings. The biggest fear of damage
>>>>>>>
> is
>
>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>> >> other boats coming loose, and debris. The entire fleet
>>>>>>>
> swings on
>
>>>>>>> >> individual anchors. Anchoring
>>>>>>> >> bow and stern puts you broadside to the wind with enormous
>>>>>>>
> stress
>
>>>>>>> on the
>>>>>>> >> anchoring system if the wind is shifting. Mushroom anchors
>>>>>>>
> are
>
>>>>>>> just
>>>>>>> >> as strong in 360 degrees, and you expose your boat to the
>>>>>>>
> least
>
>>>>>>> stress.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> If I had the problem of moving my boat under storm
>>>>>>> >> conditions I would try to rig up an air bag on a mushroom
>>>>>>>
> anchor
>
>>>>>>> so I could
>>>>>>> >> tow it to the place I wanted to set my boat, release the
>>>>>>>
> air, and
>
>>>>>>> sit on
>>>>>>> >> the single mushroom.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> When your boat is floating freely and always facing the
>>>>>>> >> wind there is no chafing problem to speak of, and while the
>>>>>>>
> wind
>
>>>>>>> creates
>>>>>>> >> uncomfortable creaking in all of the boats, the mechanical
>>>>>>>
> stress
>
>>>>>>> on the
>>>>>>> >> components seems negligible. I put a canvas chafe guard on
>>>>>>>
> my bow
>
>>>>>>> >> line where it goes over the edge of the boat (no chock). I
>>>>>>>
> have
>
>>>>>>> not had
>>>>>>> >> to replace the chafe guard in 10 years of use. Most wind
>>>>>>>
> damage
>
>>>>>>> >> around here is done to boats on shore. The wind topples one
>>>>>>>
> into
>
>>>>>>> >> the next. I suspect my boat is far safer
>>>>>>> >> in the water than it is on land.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> Bill Effros
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >> Peter Thorn wrote:
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> elle,
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> Broad Creek in New Bern, where Blackbeard is located,
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> is the best hurricane
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> hole for miles around. When a surge is expected and
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> boats must leave their
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> docks, everybody around there seems to head for Broad
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> Creek. It's about 15
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> feet of water, then 10' of mud/muck bottom river
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> bottom and then hard clay
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> underneath, according to borings made for the seawall
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> engineering design at
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> our club.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> If a storm passes close by, the wind direction can
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> shift greatly during the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> storm. This adds a different challenge to anchoring.
>>>>>>> >> Some anchors are very
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> good at setting, like Delta plow, others are very good
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> at holding in mud,
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> like the Fortress with the 45 degree fluke settings.
>>>>>>> >> But, if broken loose
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> during a storm while the wind direction is changing, a
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> Fortress will more
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> easily drag and is more difficult to reset.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> Different people do different things. One popular
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> anchoring technique is
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> the Bahamian, using two anchors at 45-180 angles.
>>>>>>> >> Other experienced storm
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> survivors here have used two anchors in series to cope
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> with our special
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> bottom conditions. Usually, coming from the direction
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> of the boat, the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> first anchor is a Delta plow type with the usual nylon
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> rode and chain.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> Then, they add about 30' of stainless cable and
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> attach a Fortress or
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> Danforth type. The idea is the Delta plow will
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> quickly reset if the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> direction changes and slow down dragging long enough
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> for the Fortress to
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> also reset, dig in and hold on hard. A friend with a
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> Gulfstar 37 has used
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> this technique for ten years with great success in
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> Broad Creek. His boat is
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> heavy and I know he uses large sizes (not sure how
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> large), but I think the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> same technique would work for a 3000# R22 with smaller
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> ground tackle.
>>>>>>> >>> Fortunately for Raven, two days before Hannah arrived
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> I just hauled her
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> home. This is a wonderful advantage of a trailerable.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> But it think it's
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> always a good idea to be prepared for whatever the
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> wind gods send us.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> May all your storms go the other way,
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> PT
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>>> >>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>>>>>>> >>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> Of elle
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 8:21 PM
>>>>>>> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>>>>>> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] anchoring
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> Well; what a coincidence.....anchoring is on my mind.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> It seems that when Hanna was deciding where to rest
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> her head, we decided to
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> anchor the boats (mine & my neighbor's ) in
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> the creek...which is a
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> well-protected hurrricane hole.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> The favored anchoring scheme is two anchors each set
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> at about 45 deg off the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> bow. I have the (way too light) Danforth-style which
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> comes with the boat &
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> another 21lb Danforth, 200' of rode & @
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> 8-10' of chain.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> Problem 1....how to anchor from the bow as the furling
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> mechanism is in the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> way if we go out straight from the bow cleat....or
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> have massive chafing if
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> we run the rode outside of the bow pulpit...boat will
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> then not be
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> head-to-wind.....
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> Problem 2...this creek has a thick layer of
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> detritus..mainly
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> leaves...coating the bottom....the heavy Danforth
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> would not set w/all the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> junk, so a new anchor is in my future.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> Anyone have any suggestions? I am looking at a Delta
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> as the CQR (my first
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> choice) is 'way too much $$$$$.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> We ended up securing one end of the boat to a forward
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> piling and the other
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> to a tree on shore.
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> elle
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>> We can't change the angle of the wind....but we
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> can adjust our sails.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> 1992 Rhodes 22 Recyc '06 "WaterMusic"
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> (Lady in Red)
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> --- On Sun, 9/14/08, Michael D. Weisner
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >> wrote:
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>> From: Michael D. Weisner
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] anchoring
>>>>>>> >>>> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> Date: Sunday, September 14, 2008, 6:27 PM
>>>>>>> >>>> Paul,
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> We must have beaten this topic to death several
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> times in
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> the past. A quick check of the nabble archives under
>>>>>>>
> "anchor
>
>>>>>>> >>>> locker" yielded:
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
> http://www.nabble.com/anchor-locker---dumb-questions-to18156518.html#a18
>
>>>>>> 1565
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>> 18
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
> http://www.nabble.com/Anchor-rode-spaghetti-to18071799.html#a18144554
>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
> http://www.nabble.com/Anchor-rode-spaghetti-to18135271.html#a18135271
>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> http://www.nabble.com/New-Guy-Bill-D.-tp7060395p7069009.html
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>>
> http://www.nabble.com/Anchoring---Again-to5113633.html#a5113633
>
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> http://www.nabble.com/Go-To-Anchor-to2383036.html#a2383036
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> You get the idea. Most of us seem to use a
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> Rubbermaid
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> basket in the laz or under a cockpit seat for the stern
>>>>>>>
> anchor,
>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> although I
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> prefer a bag hung on the stern rail. I still use the
>>>>>>>
> forward
>
>>>>>>> locker
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> for my bow
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> anchor rode storage. I cleat it to the central foredeck
>>>>>>>
> cleat
>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> and pass
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> it through my bow chocks.
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> Mike
>>>>>>> >>>> s/v Shanghaid'd Summer ('81)
>>>>>>> >>>> Nissequogue River, NY
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> From: "Paul Krawitz"
>>>>>>> >>>> Sent:
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >> Sunday,
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>> September 14, 2008 5:53 PM
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> How do you guys anchor?
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> The forepeak (tiny bow storage area) is an
>>>>>>> >>>> impractical way to store
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> rode and the opening is to small for my big
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> hands to
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> get in there.
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> I've resorted to storing the rode below
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> the
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> cockpit benches, in a
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> Rubbermaid container, and walking it forward
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> and
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> attaching it to the
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> Danforth anchor handing from the bow pulpit
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> when I
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>> need to.
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> Where do you cleat it? The central bow cleat?
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>> I'm hoping someone has a better
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> suggestion.
>>>>>>> >>
>>>>>>> >>>>> Paul K
>>>>>>> >>>>> "Clarity"
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >>>>>
>>>>>>> >> __________________________________________________
>>>>>>> >>
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>>>>>>> >>
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