[Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details

Rick sloopblueheron at gmail.com
Sun Oct 24 12:36:20 EDT 2010


Bill,

You may find the board moves easier if, instead of garden hose, you use the
clear plastic HVAC hose available in any hardware store.

Rick

On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 11:53 AM, BillyDoc <cushman at cox.net> wrote:

>
> I got the centerboard back in the boat yesterday, but still have the
> furniture to install today.  I just wanted to get this post up ASAP with
> some pictures, in case they may help someone.
>
> When I pulled the centerboard I discovered that the blocks on the trailing
> edge had pulled out at some previous time and been re-installed roughly an
> inch lower.  The blocks used were not of the best quality, and I didn't
> like
> the installation method very much either (number 8 SS bolt with locking
> nut,
> about 1/4" from edge) as it looked like it would eventually pull out as
> well.  So I fabricated a set of strain plates and installed them on either
> side of the centerboard using eight 1/2" #6 stainless sheet-metal screws
> each side.  The plates were fabricated from 316 Stainless, and are 0.030"
> thick.  The plates were drilled with 1/4" holes to accept 1/4" x 1/2"
> clevis
> pins for the upgraded blocks shown in the picture:
> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Plates.png.  The older damaged areas were then
> filled in with epoxy putty and sanded smooth.
>
> I also wanted to reduce the vertical axis rotational slop at the
> centerboard
> pin, so I fabricated the pin shown in the picture (in Anne's hand, also 316
> stainless steel) with bearing sleeves made from UHMW-PE as shown.  These
> bearings are set on shoulders machined into the pin and are 1/2" long
> axially.  The shoulders were polished to make a hard bearing surface, and
> the external diameter of the bearings forms a snug but not tight fit at the
> bottom of the centerboard trunk slot.  The centerboard is free to slide
> laterally on the pin.
>
> After measuring my slots, etc., I thought a slightly larger than 5/8" I.D.
> hose could be used without binding anything and went shopping at my local
> rubber goods supplier’s shop.  I found a Goodyear product (HORIZON tm 3/4"
> (19.1 mm) 200 PSI W.P) with an external diameter of about 1.125" that
> looked
> good and bought a couple of feet of it to try.  My slots are tapered both
> fore and aft and laterally, so this hose is tighter near the pivot pin than
> higher up, which is a nice design feature as it will keep the board
> centered
> in the trunk while the resistance to lateral movement will increase as the
> lateral movement traveling arc increases the contact area in the tapered
> area.
>
> Two pieces of hose were cut just long enough so the bottoms touched the
> UHMW-PE bearings, and the tops become constrained when the centerboard
> trunk
> cap is put back in place.  Picture here:
> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Hoses.png.  The hoses were simply jammed into
> the
> slots from above.
>
> We won't get a chance to try this system out this weekend, and since the
> boat is on a trailer I can't check the play of the centerboard until we get
> it back in the water . . . hopefully next weekend.  If I didn't
> inadvertently tangle up the pendant inside the trunk or leave areas
> unsealed
> on the trunk cap I expect the "new" system to work well!  I'll post results
> after we get some testing done, hopefully next weekend.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://old.nabble.com/Loose-centerboard-tp30013496p30041780.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
>
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