[Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details

Tue Oct 26 11:58:26 EDT 2010

I was wondering if slipping some fuel line inside the garden hose cut to a
longer length might provide some shock absorption while maintaining
stiffness?

R22MikeW wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> It may be interesting to note that this is a problem that was addressed by 
> Stan in the original design of the centerboard.  Probably before yours was 
> modified by a previous owner, the lift points on the centerboard were not 
> fancy blocks but rather fixed stainless tubes between pieces of medium
> duty 
> stainless plates that were attached to the board (through bolted pairs of 
> plates.)  The plates were probably Dwyer DH 72-5 Shroud Tangs (5" x 1" x 
> 5/64").  Nothing rolled but the line slid on the fixed tubes well.  Due to 
> the duty cycle, abrasion was not an issue.  I never worry about the block 
> being off-center and hitting the cap or jamming since it is fixed.
> 
> I wish I had a photo.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Shanghai'd Summer ('81)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> 
> From: "BillyDoc" Sunday, October 24, 2010 2:31 PM
>>
>> Ouch! I wish I had thought of that before putting in those fifty bolts. 
>> You
>> are exactly right, of course.  The next time I have it apart I will
>> definitely de-articulate the blocks with some epoxy putty.
>>
>> Thanks for pointing that little problem out!
>>
>>
>>
>> Geankoplis wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Bill,
>>> Nicely done.  Well engineered, well thought out and great detailed
>>> information on materials.  There is one concern.  Having owned a couple 
>>> of
>>> Rhodes for  pretty much the last 34 years there is a potential problem
>>> that
>>> I ran into. This involved an articulated rather than a fixed block.  On
>>> the
>>> off chance you run aground the articulated block without the tension of
>>> the
>>> pennant will flop sideways and will probably jamb in the centerboard 
>>> trunk
>>> or without the plates simply  break off a bit of the trailing fiberglass
>>> edge of the centerboard. It happened to me twice before I figured it
>>> out.
>>> Next time you go into the centerboard you may consider fixing the blocks
>>> so
>>> they can't move left or right, er, port and starboard matey.  Hope this
>>> helps.
>>> Chris Geankoplis
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of BillyDoc
>>> Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 8:53 AM
>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pictures and details
>>>
>>>
>>> I got the centerboard back in the boat yesterday, but still have the
>>> furniture to install today.  I just wanted to get this post up ASAP with
>>> some pictures, in case they may help someone.
>>>
>>> When I pulled the centerboard I discovered that the blocks on the 
>>> trailing
>>> edge had pulled out at some previous time and been re-installed roughly 
>>> an
>>> inch lower.  The blocks used were not of the best quality, and I didn't
>>> like
>>> the installation method very much either (number 8 SS bolt with locking
>>> nut,
>>> about 1/4" from edge) as it looked like it would eventually pull out as
>>> well.  So I fabricated a set of strain plates and installed them on 
>>> either
>>> side of the centerboard using eight 1/2" #6 stainless sheet-metal screws
>>> each side.  The plates were fabricated from 316 Stainless, and are
>>> 0.030"
>>> thick.  The plates were drilled with 1/4" holes to accept 1/4" x 1/2"
>>> clevis
>>> pins for the upgraded blocks shown in the picture:
>>> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Plates.png.  The older damaged areas were
>>> then
>>> filled in with epoxy putty and sanded smooth.
>>>
>>> I also wanted to reduce the vertical axis rotational slop at the
>>> centerboard
>>> pin, so I fabricated the pin shown in the picture (in Anne's hand, also
>>> 316
>>> stainless steel) with bearing sleeves made from UHMW-PE as shown.  These
>>> bearings are set on shoulders machined into the pin and are 1/2" long
>>> axially.  The shoulders were polished to make a hard bearing surface,
>>> and
>>> the external diameter of the bearings forms a snug but not tight fit at
>>> the
>>> bottom of the centerboard trunk slot.  The centerboard is free to slide
>>> laterally on the pin.
>>>
>>> After measuring my slots, etc., I thought a slightly larger than 5/8" 
>>> I.D.
>>> hose could be used without binding anything and went shopping at my
>>> local
>>> rubber goods supplier's shop.  I found a Goodyear product (HORIZON tm 
>>> 3/4"
>>> (19.1 mm) 200 PSI W.P) with an external diameter of about 1.125" that
>>> looked
>>> good and bought a couple of feet of it to try.  My slots are tapered
>>> both
>>> fore and aft and laterally, so this hose is tighter near the pivot pin
>>> than
>>> higher up, which is a nice design feature as it will keep the board
>>> centered
>>> in the trunk while the resistance to lateral movement will increase as 
>>> the
>>> lateral movement traveling arc increases the contact area in the tapered
>>> area.
>>>
>>> Two pieces of hose were cut just long enough so the bottoms touched the
>>> UHMW-PE bearings, and the tops become constrained when the centerboard
>>> trunk
>>> cap is put back in place.  Picture here:
>>> http://PoiesisResearch.com/Hoses.png.  The hoses were simply jammed into
>>> the
>>> slots from above.
>>>
>>> We won't get a chance to try this system out this weekend, and since the
>>> boat is on a trailer I can't check the play of the centerboard until we
>>> get
>>> it back in the water . . . hopefully next weekend.  If I didn't
>>> inadvertently tangle up the pendant inside the trunk or leave areas
>>> unsealed
>>> on the trunk cap I expect the "new" system to work well!  I'll post
>>> results
>>> after we get some testing done, hopefully next weekend.
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>
>>>
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>>
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>>
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> 
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> 
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> to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
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> 
> 

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