[Rhodes22-list] Battery Advice

Tue Apr 3 19:20:20 EDT 2012

I'm sure that AGM batteries are better than the standard lead-acid types but the cost difference is so large that I have never taken the plunge.  I use two of the largest Wal-Mart marine batteries that they sell - I believe they are group 27 - and they cost $85 each.  They last 5 years and you can almost put it on your calendar that they will last 5 years.  Both of mine are in the cabin and I never have to add water, except when they are new.  Can't explain that but I check them every year or even a couple times a year. My batteries are each on solar panels with a charge regulator and I also charge them when my 8hp electric start, 2 stroke Tohatsu is running.  I have more electronics than most and my batteries never run down including: autopilot, GPS, wind instrument, depth & knot meter, stereo, refrigerator/freezer...etc.   When I recently looked at buying AGM batteries for the boat at $230 each, the salesperson said they would last 5 years as did the information I read about them.  Much as I wanted to buy them and have the "best", I could not find a good reason and my cheapness ultimately won out.  I buy Wal-Mart batteries for everything I own - cars and boats.   Regarding Rummy's comments, Sea Doos are totally different animals and it is probably worth the money for those things...Bob K
 > Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 10:10:55 -0700
> From: LKUHN at cnmc.org
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Battery Advice
> 
> 
> 
> Rummy,
> 
> Just when I thought I knew more than I needed to know about batteries.
> 
> So for my purpose would I best be served getting a dual purpose battery for
> the one connected to the motor?
> 
> I like the idea of AGM long lasting maintenance and spill free--might be
> worth the extra cost.
> 
> The guy at West Marine who knew nothing about batteries did show me a $30
> solar panel controller.
> 
> It's all so confusing that I should probably just take the "What me worry?"
> attitude and ignore my batteries for another seven years.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Lee
> 
> p.s.  Last night I was admiring my neighbor's new $10,000+ canvas job (just
> the cockpit not sail covers) on his Catalina46 and even though he had three
> windows in the top I asked if it were difficult to view his sail shape.  He
> switched on the giant monitor on his helm pedestal and showed me a beautiful
> view of his deck from the masthead camera.  No problem seeing his sails. 
> Didn't ask him if he paid extra to get AGM batteries.
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> Lee,
> Correction on one point. AGM batteries will last longer than lead acid
> batteries. They cost more, but I like the maintenance free part. I use only
> agm  batteries in our SeaDoo and it has more cranking power than a lead acid
> battery.  I have two deep cycle batteries on Rum Runner and only use shore
> power for  charging. I know from personal experience that without a charge
> controller,  solar panels can easily overcharge a battery. You can also buy
> "dual purpose"  batteries which allow for deep discharge and also give you
> cranking power for an  electric starter. It all depends on how you use your
> boats power.
>  
> Rummy
>  
> 
> Leland wrote:
> > 
> > Rob,
> > 
> > Great website with an incredible amount of information.  It's amazing what
> > I know and don't know about batteries now.  :)
> > 
> > Looks like I can forget about checking amps.
> > 
> > Looks like my battery gave a "false capacity" because it was dead.
> > 
> > To summarize, I should ensure my voltage remains between 12.06 and 12.42,
> > approximately.
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > Lee
> > 
> > ___________________________________________________________________________
> > Lee,
> > If you had 13.4 volts on a battery not being actively charged, something
> > doesn't sound right with that battery.  A fully charged battery should be
> > around 12.7 volts. But then you did say your battery was dead.
> > 
> > State of Charge 	12 Volt battery 	Volts per Cell
> > 100% 			12.7 			2.12
> > 90% 			12.5 			2.08
> > 80% 			12.42 		2.07
> > 70% 			12.32 		2.05
> > 60% 			12.20 		2.03
> > 50% 			12.06 		2.01
> > 40% 			11.9 			1.98
> > 30% 			11.75 		1.96
> > 20% 			11.58 		1.93
> > 10% 			11.31 		1.89
> > 0 			10.5 			1.75
> > 
> > 
> > Much more on batteries, should you care to read.  I agree a group 27 deep
> > cycle is appropriate for our boats.  Gel and AGM might require less
> > maintenance, but they are costly. - rob
> > 
> > http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Top
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Leland wrote:
> >> 
> >> David and Geoff,
> >> 
> >> Went to West Marine and Western Auto yesterday.  I guess it depends on
> >> the individual sales/service person, but the Western Auto staff seem to
> >> know far more about boat mechanics.  We live in a fishing community so I
> >> guess West Marine is for recreational boaters and Western Auto is for
> >> working boaters.  Last month West Marine couldn't figure out what size
> >> spark plug wrench I needed (18mm).  Last night they checked the volts but
> >> not the amps on my dead battery and declared it was a connection problem. 
> >> Sounds like something I would do.
> >> 
> >> Anyway if you have a 9.9, 4-stroke Mercury you'll need a 12V deep cell
> >> with about 465 amps of marine cranking and 350 amps of cold cranking.  A
> >> starting battery might be better for your electric-start outboard but not
> >> for your motor lift.  Very important is the group size which tells
> >> nothing more than the physical size of your battery.  You want to ensure
> >> it fits in the tray that Stan installed.  Mine was a group 27 (27G).
> >> 
> >> 
> >> http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-maintenance/faqs/outboards/?category=electrical
> >> http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-maintenance/faqs/outboards/?category=electrical 
> >> 
> >> I basically bought the same battery that Stan gave me.  The Western Auto
> >> mechanic told me that if it lasted seven years without maintenance then
> >> it was the right battery.  Like Geoff he said to check the battery
> >> acid/distilled water level once a year.  He said it was impossible to
> >> overcharge the battery with the outboard or solar panels.  If you use a
> >> charger without an automatic cut-off you could overcharge the battery
> >> (boils the acid/water).  Charging the battery if needed is a good idea,
> >> but you need to check the volts and the amps.  My dead battery had 13.4
> >> volts but hardly any amperage.
> >> 
> >> Gel and AGM batteries cost more and may not last as long.  Big advantage
> >> is that they're maintenance-free and won't leak.  Just ensure your
> >> fluid-filled battery covers are on tight for those bury-the-rail heels.
> >> 
> >> Good luck!
> >> 
> >> Lee
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> _________________________________________________________________________________
> >> I'd be interested in the same.  Original GBI batteries going into their
> >> seventh year, and the boat has been out of the water for almost two
> >> years.
> >> I'll pull the plastic shrink wrap off next weekend and see if the motor
> >> will turn over...
> >> 
> >> David
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 11:35 AM, Geoff Farrell
> >> <geoffreylfarrell at gmail.com>wrote:
> >> 
> >>> I have the same setup as you do. My batteries stay charged with the 
> >>> solar panels. It's interesting to note that although I stored my boat 
> >>> under a roof from April 15 through Dec 1 my batteries were fully 
> >>> charged when I got the boat out of storage. Seems the ambient light 
> >>> was enough to keep them topped off.
> >>>
> >>> I do notice that my batteries use a lot of water, perhaps because they 
> >>> are constantly being charged by the panels. I was warned by an old 
> >>> salt to check the fluid often, and he was right.
> >>>
> >>>  Recently, I purchased a battery meter that simply plugs into the 12V 
> >>> outlet over the galley. It monitors the batteries during charging and 
> >>> also while they are being used, and seems to work great. I can measure 
> >>> voltage drop while using various combinations of equipment (radio, nav 
> >>> lights, etc.). I have been very pleased that on bright sunny days I 
> >>> can use the VHF radio and my Ipod (for navigation and music) and 
> >>> charge an external portable speaker without any battery drain.
> >>>
> >>> My motor is hard wired to battery 2. When cruising I set my battery 
> >>> switch to battery 1 to keep battery 2 fully charged for restarting the 
> >>> engine. I haven't, however, done any overnighters so my battery use is
> >>> minimal.
> >>>
> >>> I still have Stan's original batteries and so I would also be 
> >>> interested in what the best replacement batteries are for when mine die.
> >> 
> >> Leland wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> Need some battery advice.  
> >>> 
> >>> Probably should have replaced my battery long ago.  When I need to
> >>> pull-start my outboard in the marina it usually recharges the battery
> >>> enough that I can use the electric start when I'm ready to come in. 
> >>> Didn't happen yesterday.  By the time I unscrewed everything to get to
> >>> the flywheel I was dangerously close to running into the causeway
> >>> rip-rap.
> >>> 
> >>> Easy answer would be to replace the battery with the one Stan put in. 
> >>> Wasn't sure if there was something better out there now.  I've got the
> >>> electric motor winch which I assume uses a ridiculous amount of juice. 
> >>> I have one battery hardwired to the motor which is linked to a second
> >>> house battery.  Both batteries are linked to two solar panels.
> >>> 
> >>> I've taken zero care of the batteries since I bought the boat seven
> >>> years ago.
> >>> 
> >>> Should I be concerned about the solar panels overcharging the batteries?
> >>> 
> >>> Should I periodically charge the batteries to full capacity?
> >>> 
> >>> Any advice on what battery would be best and what care it needs?
> >>> 
> >>> Thanks!
> >>> 
> >>> Lee
> >>> 1986 Rhodes22  AT EASE
> >>> Kent Island, MD
> >>> 
> >> 
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
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