[Rhodes22-list] Battery Advice

Geoff Farrell geoffreylfarrell at gmail.com
Wed Apr 4 10:26:41 EDT 2012 

Are those easy to install?

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Rod ELLNER <ellnerrod at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Rummy. I imagine our 10 watt solar charger are well below 7 amps.
> Does any know?
> Rod
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 4, 2012, at 5:59 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Rod,
> > West marine has a very good charge controller at a reasonable price. You
> > need to know the charging amperage of your panels. If they are less than
> 7
> > amps,  the $29.99 unit from Sunforce will suffice.
> > _
> http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productI
> >
> d=490088&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50523&subdeptNum=5
> > 0529&classNum=50530_
> > (
> http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=490088&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeN
> > um=50523&subdeptNum=50529&classNum=50530)
> >
> > Rummy
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 4/3/2012 10:12:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > ellnerrod at gmail.com writes:
> >
> > What  brand and model charge controllers do you have?
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Rod
> > On  Apr 3, 2012, at 10:49 AM, R22RumRunner at aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> Lee,
> >> Correction on one point. AGM batteries will last longer than lead acid
> >> batteries. They cost more, but I like the maintenance free part. I  use
> > only agm
> >> batteries in our SeaDoo and it has more cranking power  than a lead acid
> >> battery.  I have two deep cycle batteries on  Rum Runner and only use
> > shore
> >> power for  charging. I know from  personal experience that without a
> > charge
> >> controller,  solar  panels can easily overcharge a battery. You can also
> > buy
> >> "dual  purpose"  batteries which allow for deep discharge and also give
> > you
> >> cranking power for an  electric starter. It all depends on how  you use
> > your boats
> >> power.
> >>
> >> Rummy
> >>
> >>
> >> In a message dated 4/3/2012 9:09:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> >> LKUHN at cnmc.org writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> David and  Geoff,
> >>
> >> Went to West Marine and Western Auto   yesterday.  I guess it depends on
> > the
> >> individual sales/service  person,  but the Western Auto staff seem to
> > know
> >> far
> >> more about boat  mechanics.  We live in a fishing community so I  guess
> > West
> >> Marine is  for recreational boaters and Western Auto  is for working
> >> boaters.
> >> Last  month West Marine  couldn't figure out what size spark plug
> wrench I
> >> needed   (18mm).  Last night they checked the volts but not the amps on
> my
> >> dead  battery and declared it was a connection problem.   Sounds  like
> >> something I would do.
> >>
> >> Anyway if you  have a 9.9, 4-stroke  Mercury you'll need a 12V deep cell
> > with
> >> about 465 amps of marine cranking  and 350 amps of cold cranking.  A
> >> starting
> >> battery might be better for  your  electric-start outboard but not for
> > your
> >> motor lift.  Very   important is the group size which tells nothing more
> > than
> >> the physical  size  of your battery.  You want to ensure it fits in the
> > tray
> >> that Stan  installed.  Mine was a group 27   (27G).
> >>
> >> http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-mai
> > ntenance/faq
> >> s/outboards/?category=electrical
> >>
> >
> http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-maintenance/faq
> >> s/outboards/?category=electrical
> >>
> >> I basically bought  the same battery that Stan gave me.  The  Western
> Auto
> >> mechanic told me that if it lasted seven years without  maintenance then
> > it
> >> was the right battery.  Like Geoff he said to  check the  battery
> >> acid/distilled water level once a year.  He said it   was impossible to
> >> overcharge the battery with the outboard or  solar  panels.  If you use
> a
> >> charger without an automatic  cut-off you could  overcharge the battery
> >> (boils
> >> the  acid/water).  Charging the battery  if needed is a good idea, but
> > you
> >> need to check the volts and the  amps.  My dead battery  had 13.4 volts
> > but
> >> hardly any  amperage.
> >>
> >> Gel and  AGM batteries cost more and may not last as  long.  Big
> > advantage  is
> >> that they're maintenance-free and won't  leak.  Just  ensure your
> >> fluid-filled
> >> battery covers are on tight  for  those bury-the-rail heels.
> >>
> >> Good  luck!
> >>
> >> Lee
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> >> _____
> >> I'd  be interested in the same.  Original GBI  batteries going into
>  their
> >> seventh year, and the boat has been  out of the water for almost two
> > years.
> >> I'll pull the plastic  shrink wrap off next weekend and see if the
>  motor
> >> will
> >> turn over...
> >>
> >> David
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Mon, Apr 2, 2012  at 11:35 AM, Geoff  Farrell
> >> <geoffreylfarrell at gmail.com>wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have the   same setup as you do. My batteries stay charged with the
> >>> solar  panels. It's interesting to note that although I stored my boat
> >>> under  a roof from April 15 through Dec 1 my batteries were  fully
> >>> charged  when I got the boat out of storage. Seems the  ambient light
> >>> was  enough to keep them topped  off.
> >>>
> >>> I do notice that my batteries  use a lot of  water, perhaps because
> they
> >>> are constantly being charged  by  the panels. I was warned by an old
> >>> salt to check the fluid  often,  and he was right.
> >>>
> >>> Recently, I purchased  a battery meter  that simply plugs into the 12V
> >>> outlet over  the galley. It monitors  the batteries during charging and
> >>> also while they are being used, and  seems to work great. I can measure
> >
> >>> voltage drop while using various  combinations of equipment  (radio,
> nav
> >>> lights, etc.). I have been very  pleased that on  bright sunny days I
> >>> can use the VHF radio and my Ipod  (for  navigation and music) and
> >>> charge an external portable  speaker  without any battery drain.
> >>>
> >>> My motor is  hard wired to battery  2. When cruising I set my battery
> >>> switch to battery 1 to keep battery  2 fully charged for restarting the
> >
> >>> engine. I haven't, however, done  any overnighters so my  battery use
> is
> >>> minimal.
> >>>
> >>> I still   have Stan's original batteries and so I would also be
> >>> interested  in  what the best replacement batteries are for when mine
> > die.
> >>
> >> Leland  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Need some battery  advice.
> >>>
> >>> Probably should have replaced my  battery long ago.  When I need  to
> >>> pull-start my  outboard in the marina it usually recharges the  battery
> >>> enough that I can use the electric start when I'm ready to  come in.
> >>> Didn't happen yesterday.  By the time I unscrewed   everything to get
> to
> >> the
> >>> flywheel I was dangerously close  to running  into the causeway
> rip-rap.
> >>>
> >>> Easy  answer would be to replace  the battery with the one Stan put in.
> >>> Wasn't sure if there was  something better out there  now.  I've got
> the
> >>> electric motor  winch which I assume  uses a ridiculous amount of
> juice.
> > I
> >>> have  one battery  hardwired to the motor which is linked to a second
> > house
> >>> battery.  Both batteries are linked to two solar panels.
> >>>
> >>> I've taken zero care of the batteries since I bought the boat  seven
> >> years
> >>> ago.
> >>>
> >>> Should I  be concerned about the solar  panels overcharging the
> > batteries?
> >>>
> >>> Should I periodically  charge the  batteries to full capacity?
> >>>
> >>> Any advice on what   battery would be best and what care it needs?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> Lee
> >>> 1986 Rhodes22  AT  EASE
> >>> Kent Island,  MD
> >>>
> >>
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> >> http://old.nabble.com/Battery-Advice-tp33544997p33545025.html
> >> Sent  from the  Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at  Nabble.com.
> >>
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