[Rhodes22-list] Solar panel inquiry

Thu Jul 19 23:43:14 EDT 2012

OK Charles, you have just proved that no 2 Rhodes22's are alike.  You
used the plural "panels" again.  So I assume 2.  We don't know how
they are wired.  If you have two batteries and 2 panels they might
have wired one panel to each battery....or not.  You need to physical
disconnect all the wires on the positive side of your batteries.
Then, one by one, check the voltage between each of those formerly
postive wires (hopefully many red) and the negative side of the
battery (leave all those hooked up).  When you find the one(s) with
positive voltage, you have found your solar panel connection (the
postive one).  And that will also tell us the open circuit voltage of
your solar panel. Your previous measure of 14.5 with the battery in
line is very good, good news for that panel.  Don't do this in the
dark.  Rum won't help.  If you find the positive wire, then you can
one by one check the negative ones to find which one is your panel,
but you might not care about the returns.  They all just need to
remain connected.

-PBR

On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 9:20 PM, Charles Nieman
<blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
> This all sounds good. Currently my problem is I can't find the wire (s) coming from the panels nor can I find a controller. The battery at mid-boat (#1) has several devices connected to it and a wire going to the switch. The battery in the lax has wires coming from the switch and nothing else. It seems that when the switch is on 1 all draws from battery #1 and the same goes for #2. I put the switch on 2; removed the lax battery and set the bolt meter on the wires, got a reading of 14.5 V. And zero amps, but then I noticed the panels were mostly shaded. Will check more extensively this weekend when I can be there mid day.
>
> But any advise on locating the wires feeds from the panels and controller (if one exists) would be great.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> Charles
>
> On Jul 19, 2012, at 10:00 PM, "PBR" <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Charles,
>> Me again.  PBR.   Everything JJT said is true but I will stick to the
>> easy way of checking open circuit voltage to see if solar panel is
>> dead or alive.  Solar cells/panels can act like constant current
>> devices at a range of voltages and will produce very little power if
>> your battery is fully charged and the load is small.  So you would
>> need to check the amps in good sun with a significant load, like a
>> light or two on.  In this case you should get a good idea of the power
>> your panel is capable of producing...like he said.  Meanwhile, I
>> measured current on my boat - my instrument panel with 3 illuminated
>> rocker switches and powering my depth indicator and knot meter only
>> drew 0.2 amps.  So my previous assertion that a good charged battery
>> should handle that for days or weeks is reasonable.  However, with my
>> running lights in the mix, it took 2.0 amps, so this could easily kill
>> a perfect battery in a couple of days (say 80 amp-hour battery / 2
>> amps = 40 hours (with 100% efficiency, which never happens).  My bilge
>> pump takes 2.5 amps, I thought I would mention that since I checked
>> it.
>>
>> So keep us posted.  If your battery has a shorted cell or is just done
>> for, that could be it.  If your panel(s) have been bad for a long time
>> that could be the problem.  Or, if you left any standard (non LED)
>> light bulb on, you might not have a problem at all.....except
>> forgetfulness.
>>
>> If you reply, tell us how many panels you have and how physically
>> large which might help me guess the wattage.  My panel produces only 5
>> watts on a good sunny day so stands no chance of keeping up with a
>> single galley light bulb (12 watts=1 amp) or running lights.  But I
>> believe some Rhodes have 2 15 watt panels.  ( but those will cook your
>> battery prematurely if you don't have a charge controller - I don't
>> have any experience with that, my wisdom comes only from the list -
>> which seems to be very wise)
>>
>> -PBR
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 8:15 PM, Charles Nieman
>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> Where were you when I was fighting electrical engineering in college. This is the GREATEST explanation I have ever heard (and I have heard bunches). With this knowledge I could have been an electrical engineer instead of an architect ......... naw ....... Architect is better ......... HUGE AND MANY THANKS
>>>
>>> Charles
>>>
>>> On Jul 16, 2012, at 8:30 PM, jimtracyjohnston at centurytel.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Charles,
>>>> In simple terms an electrical energy has two basic units, voltage and
>>>> amperage. Voltage is force or pressure on the electron to move in a
>>>> conductor, think of water pressure PSI. The amperage is the quanitiy of
>>>> electrons that are moving in a conductor. A squirt gun can have a great
>>>> deal of pressure (volts) as it squirts water, however, there is very
>>>> little volume or gallons per minute. The amperage is the quanity of
>>>> electrons that are moved i.e. gallons per minute. You need BOTH for a
>>>> useful electrical circuit. A test of your solor panel might indicate
>>>> the presence of voltage, however, if there is no amperage or quanity of
>>>> electrons being produced by the solor panel it can not refill your
>>>> battery. What would fill your bath tub first, a squirt gun with 100 PSI
>>>> (volts) and one pint/min. or a garden hose with 30 PSI max. but 5
>>>> gallon/min.? You can test a battery for voltage and get a reading,
>>>> however, it is "dead". Note the rating on batteries amp hours. You will
>>>> need to test for both voltage and amperage. Connect your solor panel to
>>>> any load (one wire to each end of a resistor) You measure the voltage
>>>> by putting a volt meter at each end of the resistor this is parallel.
>>>> Parellel means the electrons has a choice of going thru the resistor or
>>>> volt meter. Now to measure the amperage you must take one wire off the
>>>> load (resistor)  and put an ampmeter between the wire from the solor
>>>> panel and the load (resistor). This called in series and the electrons
>>>> have no choice, it must go thru the ampmeter and load to complete the
>>>> circuit. Even if there is voltage present the battery might not be
>>>> getting any electrons. Normally a power source will be rated watts.
>>>> This is the volts times the amps. Even if you have 12 volts but no amps
>>>> this means NO power. 12 volts times zero amps equals zero power. Good
>>>> Luck
>>>>
>>>> Quoting PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>:
>>>>> Charles,
>>>>> There are some previous posts about batteries, panels, and charge
>>>>> controllers.  A charged battery should be able to run your instrument
>>>>> panel only for days easily especially with solar panel(s).  So
>>>>> something is amiss.  Check your water levels.  Do you have a charge
>>>>> controller?  If not, that may have contributed to earlier battery
>>>>> degradation.  Four years is not bad, but with your light use I would
>>>>> expect them to last longer.  To test you solar panels you can check
>>>>> open circuit voltage with a voltmeter.  Disconnect the panels or
>>>>> disconnect you battery with everything else off.  In good sun your
>>>>> panels voltage shout produce an open circuit voltage significantly
>>>>> higher than battery voltage, say 15-20 volts.
>>>>> -PBR
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Jul 14, 2012 at 1:48 PM, Charles Nieman
>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> So I left the instrument panel on when I left the boat a few days
>>>>> ago and came
>>>>> back to dead battery!! The penalty for being stupid.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hooked up a trickle charger to the battery and am now recharged.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The question is, what is the best way to verify if my solar panels
>>>>> are still
>>>>> operational (I think they are original equipment and few things last
>>>>> forever)?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And how much charge would one expect to get from fully operational solar
>>>>> chargers?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The batteries are dated 2008, how many years could one expect these
>>>>> to last?
>>>>> (boat does not have electric motor hoist or electric start on outboard;
>>>>> batteries only power lights, AM/ FM radio, and compass/depth
>>>>> gauge/knot meter).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks in advance
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Charles Nieman
>>>>>> 98R22
>>>>>> DayDream
>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and
>>>>> archives go to
>>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
>>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>>>
>>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
>>>>> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>>
>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>>
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>>> __________________________________________________
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>>
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
>> __________________________________________________
>
> __________________________________________________
> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
>
> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list
> __________________________________________________