[Rhodes22-list] Thru hull drains

[Graham Stewart]

If you are referring to the two upper drains at the back on either side of
the lazarette, yes. I have done it - twice. First time as the easy way and
the second time was the harder but better way. 

The original drains in my 74 model were very small and drained through a
1/2" hose which were constantly clogging with leaves and dirt. I replaced
the drain thru-hulls in the seat and the transom with 1.5" mushroom top ones
and that worked well in the sense that they did not clog. However the
mushroom top thru-hull with the rounded top would never drain the
surrounding area completely and I had a small puddle that left a perpetual
dirty stain on the gel coat around the mushroom top. I wanted to install a
flat top cockpit drain but did not have a tool that would cut the tapered
hole and even if I did have one the fibreglass in that area was too thin.
However the area around the hole dips down and leaves a depressed area that
I thought could be built up to the point where it was flush with the bottom
of the drain troughs and at the same time give me enough thickness for the
bevelled top of the thru-hull. I could use the new thru-hull as a mould  to
form the bevelled top.

I bought two flat top cockpit drain thru-hulls  and wrapped them in plastic
so they would not stick to epoxy and then used them as a mould to create the
seats  for them in the depressed area around the drain hole. I first
attached a piece of plywood on the underside side of the hole with thickened
epoxy and when it has set used a hole saw to make an opening large enough to
fit the shank of the new thru-hull.  I then inserted the wrapped thru-hull
into the hole and packed epoxy thickened with fairing compound around it and
filled the depression so that it was flush with the bottom of the troughs.
As soon as the epoxy was stiff I removed the thru-hull  and once it hardened
sanded and faired around the hole until it looked right. This left a hole
with a tapered hole that fit the thru-hull perfectly and removed the
depressed area around the hole where water would pool.

I can now insert, and if necessary remove, the flat top thru-hull, by
threading the holding nut up against the plywood piece that I installed
earlier. I then ran some tubing to the thru-hull in the transom. 

I have attached a picture of the flat top thru-hull when it was wrapped up
in plastic and electrical tape and a picture of the reshaped seat area
before final fairing, with a hole that fits the thru-hull. Of course I had
to paint the area  but given that I am painting the whole deck and cockpit
anyway, that was not a problem. Otherwise you would need to gel coat the
area. Now it drains rapidly, does not clog and leaves no puddle to stain the
boat. My boat is old (74) so this design problem might well be fixed bin
newer boats. If you want a picture of the final product let me know and I
will post one once the boat is uncovered.

Graham Stewart


-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Peter and Jennifer
Sent: April-14-13 8:49 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Thru hull drains

just had Edvin at the plant do mine last month. he almost insisted as the
old style blocked up all the time and caused all kind of issues with the
cockpit core and lazarette which he had fixed earlier. this was done at very
small cost and worth the effort, especially as the boat is dry sailed and
unattended for months at a time.peter cool change 1979 NC

> Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:56:18 -0700
> From: trpclman at yahoo.com
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Thru hull drains
> 
> I'd like to replace the rear drains with bigger ones as I'm having issues
with them clogging. Has anybody done this?
> 
> Luis
> 
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
> 
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