[Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Mon May 13 10:23:30 EDT 2013

Dennis:
What a relief to know that there is someone else out there with a 74 Rhodes.
Interesting that you and I both have 74s yet the centreboard and ballast
construction is so different. What is your hull number? Mine is 244. 

I have attached a picture of my cabin bilge taken from the same angle as
your picture.

I do not have cement ballast but instead what I think are  steel bricks
stacked and glassed over just in front of the forward cross strut shown at
the bottom of the photo. The main bulkhead and mast post sit on that strut.
(I call the pieces gong fore and aft "stringers" and the cross pieces
"struts" for a lack of better terminology.) 

Also, my boat has a cap on the swing keel housing, currently removed, with a
flange that allows it to be bolted down to the flange on the lower piece -
shown n the picture. To understand what you are seeing, originally, the cap
was covered with a layer of cloth that wrapped around the flange. Getting it
off was difficult and in the process the matching surfaces of the flanges
were badly damaged. To make smooth surfaces for mating I cut a piece of 1/8"
aluminium and bonded it to the lower flange with epoxy filler and bolts -
which you can see in the photo. I then covered it with a layer of wax paper
and then bonded the cap to the lower surface. Once cured, I removed the cap
and wax paper to have perfectly matching surfaces that help making a proper
seal with a gasket and silicone. I should also note that the cap was broken
during the first removal and needed to be made stronger and more rigid by
adding some layers of cloth and epoxy resin. That was not original. With the
cap removed I am able to simply lift the swing keel straight up and out of
the boat.  Is there a way to get the swing keel out of your housing?

I am not sure exactly what you mean when you ask whether you " should epoxy
the fibreglass beneath the stringers" I think it makes sense to fasten the
stringers to the hull with epoxy or resin filler and tape. Mine are all
attached in this way. It preserves the wood in addition to adding strength
as I think the stringers give the hull increased stiffness which is
important especially on the older boats which appear t have less structural
stiffness in the hull lay-up. Do the stringers fit the hull of are they
suspended above it. Mine fit snugly making the glassing process easier.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Frappier
Sent: May-12-13 9:08 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

I am working on the cabin of a 74 that has nothing in the cabin but the
V-Berth and the concrete ballast forward of the centerboard trunk.  I have
cut a couple of 2x4 stringers and planned to put them about 6 in. from the
trunk.  I have epoxy coated the stringers and will also install the more
outboard stringers from 3/4 plywood for the step under the cabinet and the
seat area.  I am not sure if I should epoxy the fiberglass beneath the
stringers?  Any suggestions?  I am anxious to get the sole down so I can get
the bulkheads in especially the bulkhead with the compression post for the
mast.  Then I can install the new mast plate and mounting bracket for the
mast.  
I think I have a picture attached but this is the first post with picture so
I am not sure.  My centerboard trunk is different than the pictures I have
seen previously.  Suggestions are appreciated as I am a novice on this
project. 

Sincerely,

Dennis Frappier

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 3:28 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

 Mike:
Interlux Bilge Coat gives a shiny tough finish that is resistant to
chemicals and seems to me to be abrasive resistant. I used it on my wooden
boat and am quite satisfied. It is cheaper than epoxy. Epoxy has no UV
protection and should be normally be painted anyway .
The floor stringers in my boat were replaced many years ago by a previous
owner with pressure treated fence boards. They were glassed in place and
have stood up remarkably well. I would be inclined to use 5/4 pressure
treated deck boards instead as the 1/2" fence boards as they give a much
larger edge area to screw the floor boards into.
I would definitely glass the boards to the hull and cover the rest with
epoxy.
The original stringers on my boat were placed quite close to the centreboard
cap making it rather difficult to get in to  the bolts to remove the cap or
get in with a sponge to remove bilge water. I plan to redo mine but place
them about 1" out from the current position.

Graham Stewart

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael Hellyar
Sent: May-12-13 12:52 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Picked up a Rhodes 22. Needs TLC especially interior. Want to paint raw
fiberglass under seating behind cabinets and under cabin flooring around the
bilge trough. Whatever was there - appears to have been painted at some time
- has mostly peeled. Need to keep cost down but want washable clean looking
finish. Can anyone recommend type of paint or can epoxy be used 

Bilge trough wood frame ( my own term ) around the keelboard housing trunk
was under water for some time and need to be replaced. Any recommendations ?
Appears to have been glassed and tabbed to the cabin floor. Looks like
damaged wood still good enough to overlay with epoxy and cloth or just
thickened epoxy. Any suggestions ?

Mike Hellyar
sent from my iPad
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