[Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Mon May 13 15:32:28 EDT 2013

The worst part of having the older style centerboard trunk is what to do if the turning pivot point for the pennant up into cockpit is rotted away. I believe it was just another stainless steel rod.

Todd T.
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with mail.com Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

"Lowe, Rob" <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:

Most interesting. these are two pictures from the same angle? Dennis, do you have a centerboard? It looks like your has been removed and glassed over?? Is there a centerboard you can observe from underneath the boat? It does looks like the cockpit drain hose is there. - rob

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 10:23 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Dennis:
What a relief to know that there is someone else out there with a 74 Rhodes.
Interesting that you and I both have 74s yet the centreboard and ballast construction is so different. What is your hull number? Mine is 244. 

I have attached a picture of my cabin bilge taken from the same angle as your picture.

I do not have cement ballast but instead what I think are steel bricks stacked and glassed over just in front of the forward cross strut shown at the bottom of the photo. The main bulkhead and mast post sit on that strut.
(I call the pieces gong fore and aft "stringers" and the cross pieces "struts" for a lack of better terminology.) 

Also, my boat has a cap on the swing keel housing, currently removed, with a flange that allows it to be bolted down to the flange on the lower piece - shown n the picture. To understand what you are seeing, originally, the cap was covered with a layer of cloth that wrapped around the flange. Getting it off was difficult and in the process the matching surfaces of the flanges were badly damaged. To make smooth surfaces for mating I cut a piece of 1/8"
aluminium and bonded it to the lower flange with epoxy filler and bolts - which you can see in the photo. I then covered it with a layer of wax paper and then bonded the cap to the lower surface. Once cured, I removed the cap and wax paper to have perfectly matching surfaces that help making a proper seal with a gasket and silicone. I should also note that the cap was broken during the first removal and needed to be made stronger and more rigid by adding some layers of cloth and epoxy resin. That was not original. With the cap removed I am able to simply lift the swing keel straight up and out of the boat. Is there a way to get the swing keel out of your housing?

I am not sure exactly what you mean when you ask whether you " should epoxy the fibreglass beneath the stringers" I think it makes sense to fasten the stringers to the hull with epoxy or resin filler and tape. Mine are all attached in this way. It preserves the wood in addition to adding strength as I think the stringers give the hull increased stiffness which is important especially on the older boats which appear t have less structural stiffness in the hull lay-up. Do the stringers fit the hull of are they suspended above it. Mine fit snugly making the glassing process easier.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Frappier
Sent: May-12-13 9:08 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

I am working on the cabin of a 74 that has nothing in the cabin but the V-Berth and the concrete ballast forward of the centerboard trunk. I have cut a couple of 2x4 stringers and planned to put them about 6 in. from the trunk. I have epoxy coated the stringers and will also install the more outboard stringers from 3/4 plywood for the step under the cabinet and the seat area. I am not sure if I should epoxy the fiberglass beneath the stringers? Any suggestions? I am anxious to get the sole down so I can get the bulkheads in especially the bulkhead with the compression post for the mast. Then I can install the new mast plate and mounting bracket for the mast. 
I think I have a picture attached but this is the first post with picture so I am not sure. My centerboard trunk is different than the pictures I have seen previously. Suggestions are appreciated as I am a novice on this project. 

Sincerely,

Dennis Frappier

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 3:28 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Mike:
Interlux Bilge Coat gives a shiny tough finish that is resistant to chemicals and seems to me to be abrasive resistant. I used it on my wooden boat and am quite satisfied. It is cheaper than epoxy. Epoxy has no UV protection and should be normally be painted anyway .
The floor stringers in my boat were replaced many years ago by a previous owner with pressure treated fence boards. They were glassed in place and have stood up remarkably well. I would be inclined to use 5/4 pressure treated deck boards instead as the 1/2" fence boards as they give a much larger edge area to screw the floor boards into.
I would definitely glass the boards to the hull and cover the rest with epoxy.
The original stringers on my boat were placed quite close to the centreboard cap making it rather difficult to get in to the bolts to remove the cap or get in with a sponge to remove bilge water. I plan to redo mine but place them about 1" out from the current position.

Graham Stewart

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael Hellyar
Sent: May-12-13 12:52 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] interior paint

Picked up a Rhodes 22. Needs TLC especially interior. Want to paint raw fiberglass under seating behind cabinets and under cabin flooring around the bilge trough. Whatever was there - appears to have been painted at some time
- has mostly peeled. Need to keep cost down but want washable clean looking finish. Can anyone recommend type of paint or can epoxy be used 

Bilge trough wood frame ( my own term ) around the keelboard housing trunk was under water for some time and need to be replaced. Any recommendations ?
Appears to have been glassed and tabbed to the cabin floor. Looks like damaged wood still good enough to overlay with epoxy and cloth or just thickened epoxy. Any suggestions ?

Mike Hellyar
sent from my iPad
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